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Thread: Which Plans for a Guitar CNC machine? Switching from Pin Router - Suggestions???

  1. #1
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    Which Plans for a Guitar CNC machine? Switching from Pin Router - Suggestions???

    I've got a huge 3 phase (home built static converter) 5 HP CR Onsrud Inverted Pin Router. I like it. Great Heavy Duty Machine and I got a great deal on it.

    But I think it's time to go digital. It seems like I don't need the heavy duty construction or horsepower I would with a pin router.

    I'm an Electrical Engineer. I'm not afraid of the electronics side of things. I'm ok with fabrication but definitely not a machinist. I build guitars for a living. I've got a decent amount of wood tools (planer, jointer, band saw, table saw, radial arm saws, drills, drill presses, hand routers, pin router).

    So... with that as a background what are some suggestions on building a CNC?

    I'd like to get one that I can make bodies (Strat and Tele) and necks.

    I'd like the machine to do as much on the body as possible:
    -Cut the outline
    -Cut all neck pocket and cavity routes
    -Drill the neck screw holes (and string through holes on a Tele)
    -Cut the rear contour (tummy cut) and front contour (forearm)
    -Roundover

    I have a large belt sander and jigs to finish the cuts precisely. But roughing those areas (the front and rear contour) would be something I'd like to have it do.

    Neck:
    -Outline
    -Face dots
    -Peghead holes
    -Peghead profile
    -Trussrod Slot (curved fender style)
    -Fret and nut slots
    -Neck back profile

    What plans for the machine?
    What controller and Steppers?

    What should I spend? It doesn't have to be fast. Just has to be sturdy and able to make a few hundred guitar bodies and necks over the next 5-10 years without much repair work to the machine.

    Thanks everyone!

    Just for fun Here are a couple of pictures of what I'm doing now.



    Lastly, from reading a bit it seems like the plans from Solsylva are what people are recommending but looking for all opinions before I get rolling.
    thanks!!
    Nick
    Last edited by 777funk; 10-23-2009 at 01:50 PM.


  2. #2
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    My other question is this... would I be foolish to try to turn a milling machine into a CNC guitar cutter?


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    Just look at those video, You don't need a lot of power or a super machine to do it. BTW, a lot more of these video on guitar building on you tube


    "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clSG0fvA_5c"]YouTube - cnc Guitar II solidworks mastercam

    "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nj7WHut8NNo"]YouTube - K2 CNC Router - Mach 3 - Guitar Body - Cutting Guitar

    "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xlGu51uqNgQ"]YouTube - DIY CNC Router Demo

    Hope this help, Jeff


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    Quote Originally Posted by 777funk View Post
    My other question is this... would I be foolish to try to turn a milling machine into a CNC guitar cutter?
    depends. warmoth for example uses a 20x40 mill (fadal i think). benifits are accuracy, power, which translate to higher speeds cutting bodies. other benifit is the tool changer. but thats an expensive machine prospect even used.

    on the opposite end theres something like this:
    CNC parts Toronto

    which if you look through the thread should be under $5000 for something that can do bodies and necks. drawback is its comparatively flexy, so you cant really use a high power spindle, and as such will have to cut alot slower than on a big mill. it of course also needs tools changed manually if your just using a router spindle.

    im thinking of using that router in the link to do guitar bodies and necks myself. if it kicks out 10 sets in one day, ill be happy as im aiming for only 1 weekend of production a month for now. i will probably make a vaccuum jig to hold down the blanks.


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    I built the Solsylva 25x37 machine and made a few changes to it that has been worth the trouble and expense.

    1. Used red oak 1x3 lumber instead of pine 2x4 lumber. Laminated 2 pieces of 1x3 to make the 2x4 equivalent.

    2. Used 1/2 -10 Acme rod and DunpsterCNC nuts instead of 5/16-18 UNC rod and hex couplers.

    3. Used 425 oz-in steppers and dampers.

    4. Used 3/4" oak side plates on the Z axis. The Z still has some flex due to the aluminum angle carriages and EMT pipe style construction. Steel angle would help a lot.

    This one can cut guitar parts easily, but my recommendation for someone starting new would be to build the Solsylva belt drive machine instead.

    Better yet, order a kit from Fineline Automation, which would be a better machine for longer term production uses. They are working on a second, larger machine also. It will cost more up front but it will be in use much sooner than home building one from plans or design-your-own. You can assemble their kit over a single weekend.

    CarveOne
    CarveOne
    http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com


  • #6
    Community Moderator ger21's Avatar
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    I'd recommend Joes 4x4. www.joescnc.com

    It'll probably cost around $2500, + software.
    Gerry

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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    I second Gerry view, I built both of Joe's machines, the first I sold and I now have the 4x4 hybrid which is great!.

    David


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    Registered judleroy's Avatar
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    If you can afford to go with a milling machine you will not be sorry with the choice. It will last longer then a router and allow higher feedrates and better finishes. Judleroy


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    Hi, I am pretty new to CNC and recently bought a 3x5 machine from Fine Line Automation and I am very happy with my decision. The reason I chose them over the other options was that it is made from 80/20 aluminium and the price is very reasonable. I didn't want a machine made from MDF or 2x4s. The total price for the machine, controllers, software etc. was around $3000.00. The other advantage with 80/20 is that it is very easy to modify the machine to fit your needs. Hope this helps. mmcguire


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