Broadcaster cnc build

[ehawley]

Hi all...Been very busy at work the past 2 weeks! I haven't had much time for building!! BUT...I went to Willard Brothers today to pick out fingerboard wood for the verneer necks. The rosewood selection wasn't much this time around but there was a super selection of Macassar Ebony. I always liked ebony for a fingerboard. Macassar ebony has colors anywhere from a grey_pink to a dark red_black. A beautiful wood. I picked a piece that was dark red in color. Almost the same color of vintage rosewood. Very dark! Here are a few pictures of my find. The piece was 39" long by 1" thick (a true 1" (5/4)) I cut it in half to 19 1/4 long. I can get 6 fingerboards out of it . If I want to take the time and REALLY set up my band saw for re-sawing, I may be able to get 4 pieces from each blank, but I think I'll play it safe and get 3!!

Here is a picture of what I consider heaven! Willard Bros. exotic shed!!



Here is a shot of the ebony...



Nice straight tight grain...



I cut 4 necks out of the piece of flamed maple that Dwight sent me. The ebony will be going on these necks.



Next week I'll be cutting the ebony to glue onto the necks. The finger board side of the necks will be cut for the verneer and the truss rod slot also.
I haven't had time to fill and sand the body yet , but that is coming .
Thanks all
Cheers
ED

[ehawley]

Here is the files page...This will be updated as needed. DXF, DWG, PDF, and Parasolid files will be posted here.

DXF Files...

Verneer neck...here

Broadcaster neck...here

Broadcaster body...here


DWG Files...

Verneer neck...here

Broadcaster neck...here

Broadcaster body...here


pdf will be added when done along with parasolid files of body and necks.

enjoy!
Cheers
ED

[Mike Stevenson]

Ed,

Those DWG and DXF links do not work for me.

[ehawley]

Ed,

Those DWG and DXF links do not work for me.

Hmm... They work for me when I try them. What happens when you click on the word here?

[Mike Stevenson]

A blank screen that say "done" at the bottom. Why don't you attatch the files here by going advanced and adding those attachments?

[ehawley]

I machined the "milled" jackcup today. Fender used these up until end of 1952 I believe. Maybe even into early 53'.
This is not a copy of an actual cup, but a close facsimile. (as close as my eyes can see!) What the heck!... it only holds the jack...right?
I made it out of 303 stainless. One of the easiest machining grades!

I started with a 2" length...



The diameter was 1.2" so I had to turn it down to 1" dia. ( I could have started with 1" , but I didn't have any in-house...and I'm cheap!)
I held it in a three jaw chuck to turn one end so it would fit into a 1" collet.



The reason I don't finish the part in the 3 jawed chuck is because of the knurling operation. A LOT of side load is applied in that operation and it might not be secure in the chuck!

after the 1" dia is turned I place it in a 1" collet and turn the other side to 1" also. I then center drill the blank...





It's now ready to for the 3/8 drill.

[ehawley]

When drilling stainless, even 303, you have to use slow RPM and strong feed on the drill, along with lots of oil. If not you will "glaze", or work harden, the

surface. A real pain. You then have to switch to carbide to get through the hard spot. If you let off on drill pressure abit you will do the same! Once you start

to cut, DON'T STOP!!.

Drilling the blank...



With the blank now drilled I'll start to knurl the "lock" feature. I don't hollow the cup area yet because of the side pressure used in knurling. You would deform

the piece!

Here are some straight knurling tools...



Diamond knurls are just helical shaped wheels one under and one over that mesh to make the diamond shape, like on tele knobs. For the cup I used a

straight knurl.
You slowley "press" the shape of the tool into the metal...



I didn't take much care in doing this since it won't be seen, but you get the idea.

Once the knurl is finished I cut the piece off and turn it and place it in a 7/8 collet to bore the cup area...



When the cup area is done I polish it and remove it to put on a fixture to finish the back of the cup.

[ehawley]

I turn a fixture out of ABS to hold the cup side, and work on the back taper..





A little bit of sanding and polishing and it's done!

[ehawley]

I also cut the ferrule side of the body today.... I went with Jack's suggestion and cut them "in-line"





With that done I can now radius and finish the body.
Next week the verneer fretboard side along with the truss channel and fretboard will be cut. I'm still working on the solids drawing for the Broadcaster neck itself. It's a soft Vee and that will be posted soon!
Thanks all !
Cheers
ED

[ehawley]

I did the "re-saw" thing today! I took one of the macassar ebony boards, set up an angle plate on the bandsaw and cut away. I was trying to get 4 pieces out of each board, but that was cutting it a bit close, so I settled for 3. Six in total. The board was exactly 1" thick. The first board I cut I had set for .200, but it cut around .180. Just enough for a verneer fretboard. I didn't like "just enough" so I upped the size to around .300

Here is the .200 (er... .180) piece taped to the cnc ready for the inner radius cut.





Nice grain shot!

[ehawley]

CNC programm screen for the inner radius cut...Well...first 10 lines anyhow!



Cutting of the radius...



I want a 9.5" radius. .080 verneer thickness, so the inner radius was cut at 9.420" (oh boy!...math)...



See what I mean about being close!?! There is only about .015" left for clean-up when I cut the fret side. It shouldn't be a problem, but ....better safe than sorry!

I'm going to stay late at work tomorrow and cut the truss rod slot , fill strip, and (after the fill strip glue dries) the "inner radius" suface.
Should be a fun time!?! (I hope!)

Pictures to follow tomorrow...
Thanks all, good luck, and good night.
Cheers
ED

[xlr8tr@mac.c]

Looking good Ed, nice clean work as always.