Just giving this a bit of a bump, as no one responded.
I haven't worked on 3d contours yet, so any info would be helpful please. Is ball-nose endmills what I am looking for?
Good day,
I am still learning solidworks and mastercam, but I am trying to look ahead a bit. One day I would like to try to route out a guitar body and neck. I am trying to figure out what type of router bits I will need.
My spindle is just a regular laminate trimmer, on a 3 axis cnc. So only 1/4" or less shanks, preferably 1/4" so I do not have to go buy new collets. I am thinking I will need 1/16, 1/8, and 1/4 ball-nose endmills for the neck, and regular 1/8 and 1/4 straight bits for the body pockets and contours. This sound right?
I will probably do the regular bevels around the body on my router table. Do you guys use a drill bits or router bits to do the holes in the headstock for the tuning knobs?
Cheers,
Jordan
Just giving this a bit of a bump, as no one responded.
I haven't worked on 3d contours yet, so any info would be helpful please. Is ball-nose endmills what I am looking for?
I am thinking I will need 1/16, 1/8, and 1/4 ball-nose endmills for the neckI wouldn't think so, unless you have some tight inside corners. With 3D carving, you'll get the smoothest surface and fastest machining time by using the largest tool possible that will still give you the detail you need. A bigger bit can use a larger stepover, so fewer passes, and the scallops between passes will be smaller, so less sanding will be needed.
Ball nose endmills are typically what you'd use, but larger ones are expensive. The good news is that for larger sizes, you can get similar results from carbide tipped core box (or round nose) router bits.
You shouldn't need anything smaller than 1/4", unless you need to route very small holes. I'd use upcut spiral router bits..............and regular 1/8 and 1/4 straight bits for the body pockets and contours. This sound right?
Gerry
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Much thanks as always Gerry. Thanks for the tip about the core box, I have those lying around.
if you are going to be doing 3d contouring and surfacing with round nose and core box bits I suggest you add relief angle as the cutting edge approaches the tip. I have found that matching the relief angle around the cutter improves the cutting performance and reduces build up of resins in the relief angle at the tip as well as reducing burning on the workpiece.