Reply with Quotesorry kids file too large gonna have to decrease size or retake pic or send me a pm
Hello all,here is a pic of the tele that I built from the plans I sent to Greg a while back.
sorry kids file too large gonna have to decrease size or retake pic or send me a pm
GCode! I want GCODE!
( ACtually, DFX or something to generate teh Gcode would work for me)
Ed
Here is a strat style dxf for your viewing pleasure.
Larry
Ed
The file attach seemed to be OK but I'm not seeing anything attached.. Is there a size limit on a file?
Larry
Probably
you guys are hilarious and intelligent, a good combo, if there ever was one. I am going to have to study Luthier's post, because it sounds about right on for C-tooling. by the way, anyone want to make up a saw program to slot frets? You can get jeweler's saws in just about any thickness to cut these. Question though...move the piece or the saw?
Try zipping it.Originally Posted by lvanduyn
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
You can make a program by using a spreadsheet like Excel.
A B C D E F
fret calculator fret spacing fret
24.75 17.817 1.389122748 23.36087725 1.389122748 1
Row 1 has lables "fret calculator" in A1 "Fret spacing "is in E1 and "Fret"in F1
Plug in the following in Row 2
A2 is the scale length you want for ex 25.5 for strat/tele
B2 type in = 17.817
C2 type in = A2/b2
D2 type in =a2-c2
E2 type in =c2
This will generate your fret spacing. Then copy column E into notepad and add the Gcodes to it. You can copy and paste the gcodes instead of typing each one. I have the cutter go something like this:
G01Z-.0625
G01X3.0
G01Y-1.389122748
G01X0
G01Y- etc.
In fact I just did this a few days ago to scribe fret lines onto a pc of maple.
The formatting changed... sorry about that.
There are also fret calculators available on the net. Do a search for "fret spacing calculator" and something should come up.
Sorry one more thing about the Excel calculator above. You have to click on the columns and drag them down about 24 rows to copy each new formula for each new calculation.
Luthier's fret calc spreadsheet is a hot item, especially if you're experimenting with custom scale lengths and the like. It's not likely that LMI or StewMac will cut you a 25.375" scale fretboard
I'm working on a couple-three fretscale part files. Gerry pointed me to the cutter, so I'm going to use it. Taper, radius, cut inlay pockets, sharpen inlay corners, cut slots, all in the same part file with appropriate pauses for bit changes. THAT'S the ticket
Here is another try at attaching a file..
Larry
Let us decide to make neck first. See if we agree on the following
1.) The neck will be machined on both the top and the bottom.
2.) Let us make a blank that minimizes the amount of machining within reason
3.) Let us have tabs at each end of the neck with alignment holes for pins right on the center line.
We will need to agree on the machining operations and the type and size of bit to use. Each operation will have its own g-code file. This is easier for me to organize than pausing for tool changes.
Let us start with the blank. I was thinking that we could agree on the overall dimensions of the rectangular blank, then take a saber saw and remove the material on both sides down to the head stock. We will then define the alignment holes.
The rectangular blank needs to 28” long (this allows for a 1” tab at each end), 1.25” thick, and 3.625” wide at the headstock end and 2.5” wide for the remaining 20 inches along the neck. There will be an extra inch tab at each end with a .25” hole right on the center line to allow the part to be flipped over and machined on the back. We will need to cut the truss rod slot.
OK what operation do we start with? Back or Front? What size tools? How do we fixture it? I will collect the input in this post so bookmark it.
Greg
Your truss rod is usually a single 3/16" pc. of steel rod with 10-32 threads. It needs an anchor at the end. Some guys just make a 90 degree bend at the heel end. You can use a small pc. of brass or steel and make an anchor out of that. Gibson uses a flat pc. of steel with the rod peaned at the end. It should fit without a lot of play in the slot. Those of you using a Stew mac hot rod may want a slightly wider slot to accomodate the plastic tubing that surrounds it. These are double rods and allow you to adjust the neck in both directions. The hot rods are easy to install and already made. You just buzz out the slot and drop it in with a couple drops of silicone caulk as a cushion. You may want to decide what rod that you will use.
Your neck should end up to be an inch thick when you are done with it. Too thick a neck will cause you some problems in getting the proper angle and action to match up with the saddles in the bridge.
I think we should do the fretboard area first, then flip the blank and do the back of teh neck , then flip it again to shape the headstock and thin it.
Sounds Good, We'll do the fingerboard side first. The first pass will use a larger bit, say a .75" and will remove the majority of the material. The second pass will use a smaller bit, or a bull nose and will cut the fretboard radius and the level the headstock area. The third pass will use a very small bit and cut the fret slots and the fret marker dot inlay holes. Then the neck will bet flipped over and we'll look at doing he backside.
Sound like a plan?
What kind of 3/4" bit has a quarter inch shaft? I'm somewhat limited by my hardware.
Here are two g-code files and pictures of what our blank will look like afterwards. The first file uses a .75" flat end router bit and the second uses a .25" round end mill.
The fingerboard area needs to be sanded with a 10" radius sanding block before we cut the frets and the inlay dots holes. Then we can flip it over and machine the back.
