Reply with Quote50 thou is a bit too much clearance, I think. More like 10 thou on both sides.
It is true about ProE and .DXF. I have had a devil of a time getting .DXF into and out of it.
50 thou is a bit too much clearance, I think. More like 10 thou on both sides.
Moldmaker thanks for the dxf fix. I also tried the iges with no problems.
Greg .050" sounds loose to me. Will the attaching bolts/screws keep everything aligned, or do you need a little room to move on a bolt on? I am just now in the process of building my first instrument. It will have a glued neck joint and I'm wishing I had went bolt on with this first one!
Mike
No greater love can a man have than this, that he give his life for a friend.
.01 is plenty... All of my bolt ons are slip fit into the pocket. You for sure don't want loose coupling of the wood, the pocket should hold the neck in alignment. the tension of the screws is not enough to prevent the neck from shifting in the pocket.
Nathan
greg, that last fret over-hang on the neck end shouldn't be there.
Ed,
Looking at the pictures in post 26 and the plans is where I see the last fret over hang. Maybe I don't see what you mean. Do you have a picture of what you mean?
Greg
IT's not a problem, Greg, I can alter my set of code.
Be careful...
This is my first post, even tho it's a reply so here goes:::
If the book you are referring to is the one by Andre Duchoissoir, then be advised that the dimensions in that book are INTENTIONALLY INCORRECT. And "why is that", you ask? Well, it's because that company beggining with the letter "F" would not allow Duchoissoir to publish such inside info on the world's most popular guitar because it's design privacy infringement, or some such dogma designed to resist easy mass knockoffs of same, and seeing as there already ARE zillions of knockoffs, you know the rest............So my advice is to take about 5 separate Strats, take an average measure, and go with that...every other dimension on the body is logic dependent any way, like the neck pocket not being the same for every neck, as they are different widths (usually 2 3/16ths to 2 1/4), or the placement of pickup cavities to be in in centerline with the bridge, etc. So mebbe that's some help. Unless you are talking about some other book entirely, in which case NEVER MIND....
It goes back to the 'defense of the trademark' thing. They have to defend it ALL the time or they've set a poor precedent.
The intentional dimensions are a part of that defense strategy, misguided as it is, and they aren't the only ones doing it.
I made a set of Tele routing templates based on the blueprints in Andre Duchoissoir's Telecaster book... The bridge pickup route was the only thing that was not quite right... of course there was no radius information for the curves of the outline... but using a few reference photos and some careful measurements I ended up "really" close. No problem with pickguards and hardware lining up. I've not done anything based on the Strat blueprints... But I am in the process of building a set of "dinky" strat templates to build a solid walnut dinky. I've just finished up the CAD work Now I just need to separate it into separate templates for import into the CAM software. My Router is not capable of routing bodies directly. So I have to stick with router tables and pattern bits for now.
Nathan
That Dinky looks nice!
The plans being 'right' or not, I guess, depends on what your definition of 'right' is, doesn't it?
I really need to get going on this project of mine. Argh.
right....
My guess as to what's 'right', is really only what fits under a pickguard, and/or doesn't look too gawky....a frinstance might be the tele bridge pickup rout where if it isn't 'right, the corners poke out from the sides around the plate (really irritating), meaning those radii have to be tight, or be yuglee....the neck rout, etc...BTW, I am a total begginner to cad, and would like to see, or become familiar with, the writing of a CAD program to integrate into a pin routing system, because I think that would be the stuff to use , certainly for routing all those wells...with an air driven lift to repo the cutter for wells not connected to each other.
Hey guys:
I'm following this thread pretty close since I'm a Strat fanatic. I have one question at this point:
"Which" Strat are you guys modeling? There isn't much difference in bodies, but from one era to the next, and from model to model, the necks had different profiles. The cross section on the neck on my Strat is very thick. Some of my friends who play strats don't like mine because the neck is too thick, and I don't like theirs because their necks are too thin.
Patrick;
The Sober Pollock
The pinrouter direction is the way to do it if you want to do it the way they did it in the '50s. Cut the templates on the CNC and use them on the pinrouter. I have that ability, I want to use the CNC for top-carving on a Les Paul and neck-carving on all guitars. THat's my main interest. I have a friend who's into strats nad I thought it would be nice for me to make him one as a gift because he's very generous. But MY main interest is entirely in Les Pauls for myself.
Being only literate in 2D, I've found one approach to carve a neck is to draw cross sections at the nut and at the 16th fret in autocad. Using a circle to represent my cutter, I take tangent points off of the curve in equal distances from the centerline. Then putting the cursor on that point, I get a measurement for the Z and the X axes. You only have to do one side of a neck, then just take the code in Word and use "search and replace" to change +X with -X to get the opposite side mesurements. This doesn't include the two transition points at the heel and peghead, but just the shaft section. It is really pretty painless if you are fairly skilled in Autocad and writing Gcode. Back when I was carving necks by hand, I was doing the cross section drawings anyway to get numbers to use with a rasp and file.
I think I know what you mean by some of that but not the cutter part
Lets say that the cross section of the neck at the nut is drawn like a letter D and that the straight line of the D represents the glue joint of the fingerboard to neck material. I would draw the straight line as a horizontal line on the X axis. I would strike a centerline perpendicular to the straight line. This represents the center of the neck. The line would divide the arc into two parts. We would work with one side of that arc. We've essentially cut the D in half.
Now say you are using a 1/2" diameter core box bit. In autocad I would draw a 1/2" diameter circle and place it tangent to the centerline of the arc where it meets the straight line( Y axis) This spot would be the thickest part of the neck. We'll say we are making a nut width of 1 and 12/16". I set my grid to 1/8 and not use the snap function. Now I copy my circle and move it to the left .125 and down until it touches the curve. I repeat this every 1/8". My drawing shows a bunch of circles touching the arc from the centerline down to the fingerboard edge. Then I take my cursor and determine the X and Z measurements for each tangent spot for each individual circle. These would be the end points for the nut end. I would draw a cross section at the 16th fret and repeat the process. This D would be thicker and wider. I would get those x and Z measurements for that batch of tangent points. These are the end points at the opposite end of the cutter path.
Now I would draw a third drawing that represents the top view of lines connecting these points from nut end to the 16th fret end. You would see about 16 lines that taper to the nut width. These would be the Y axis tool paths. Then the code is written putting all the numbers together. I use Bobcad to take that series of lines and just have to tell the router how deep to go at each end. This makes a neck shaft that needs scraping and sanding, but the bulk of the wood is removed by the router bits in long straight passes. I hope this makes sense.
I'm going to save this to a textfile and play with it a bit. I appreciate this!
Does this pile of wood look like a Strat yet? The round small piece is a walnut dowel. It was the closest thing I could find for the skunk stripe truss rod cover. I want to know who is going to be the first to make wood chips?
If I had G-code , maybe me!
Honest, I want the Tele and LP Gcodes more than I want the strat ones but I'll want the strat ones too.
