MV-45/40 tool change arm out of position

[vfsi]

I have a MV-45/40 with the Fanuc 6MB control, hydraulic tool changer.

The crash appears to have been caused by a loose sensor flag on the up position of the arm allowing the arm to travel too high and contact the clamp release cam (ramp) when it rotated to pick up the tools.
After the crash, the tool changer arm at the home position (all positions in fact) is rotated by 10 degrees or so. How do I turn it back?

I removed the arm and the tool changer cycle completes normally with the exception that the arm is misaligned.

Any help, an exploded view from a service manual..............

Thanks
vfsi

[claya]

Sometimes the arm shifts on the shaft. It sounds like the arm cycles correctly. You have to lower the arm by stopping it mid cycle, and then loosen the clamp. There is a procedure in the book for the cycle. I can help once you get the arm down. It is not complicated. Just seems like it.

ca

[Boots]

Claya is correct...the arm has slipped on the shaft. This is not keyed as it would cause much damage if it were. It is a taper fit like a tool holder. Once it is loose you can tap it around untill it is alligned properly. I've had to do this before due to a tooling jam durring tool change.

[vfsi]

Thank you for the reply.

I have the two handed arm off of the shaft end but I do not see how to pull the shaft end off of a taper so I can change it's orientation.

Do I need a wheel puller?

[Boots]

Yes.... wheel or gear puller will do it.

[vfsi]

The assembly of the tool rotating arm as I have disassembled it so far is as follows: (a picture would shorten this by a thousand words)

The two handed arm is held up by 4 SHCS and located with 2 dowel pins to a disk shaped mounting plate ~ 4.0 x 1.5 inches. (it's all metric so....)
The mounting plate is held in place by a large jam nut ~2 3/8 across the flats. The nut holds the mounting plate onto a splined shaft about 1 1/2 diameter. The splined shaft is an extension of the long 3 1/2 diameter polished shaft that extends to the top of the machine.

Above the mounting plate is a cast yoke that houses a large roller bearing that the polished shaft rotates in and a flange on the back side that connects to the hydraulic cylinder behind the rotating shaft. The yoke is attached to the hyd. cylinder shaft by a nut. Removing the nut allows the yoke to be removed and the rotating shaft to fall until the top of the shaft hits the lower travel limit.

The splined end of the rotating shaft appears to be one piece with the polished OD of the rotating shaft. If it is not one piece, this must be the adjustable taper?

Then again I don't know............. I omitted washers and etc. to save on typing.

[Boots]

The Disk mounting plate should have a slight taper as does the bore for the rotating arm. When the large nut (2 3/8) is tight the fit is just right but with a hard blow the arms will move under a friction fit. This is to prevent a major breakdown incase of a tool jam. Operate the tool changer in manual rotating the large flywheel by hand to get the timing right, is how we fixed our Mori. Be careful though cause the wheel can "Take off" on you and you wouldn't want to get your hand in the gears. Do you not have a manual that shows this?

[vfsi]

boots,

thanks for the reply but I think we have different tool changers. I do not have a flywheel. My tool changer has a dual rack and pinion hydraulic rotary actuator to swing the arm. The Disk mounting plate has a splined bore and a straight outside with dowel pins for location of the arm. There is no taper.

I know you are correct about the slip in the system, because when it crashed, I saw it jam and then slip out of position so the limit switch made, indicating the end of rotation.

I just need to find the slip joint. I don't have a big enough hammer to beat it back into position.

I don't have the machine manual that show the tool changer.

[Sierra Nevada]

I did a toolchange with a M19, M31, M80-89 and I did not send my z back to zero. Now my changer is not aligned. I've taken apart most of the arm. Now I just have the shaft to deal with. I can not seem to get the taper to get loose. If anyone has some advice I'd love some. I can not understand where a gear or wheel puller could be used.

[claya]

The taper clamp on the shaft is brilliantly designed, and does its job well. It is VERY tight, when it is supposed to be. Once you get the arm down, loosen all the cap screws, on the clamp ring, and slide it up the shaft. You will also need to spin the large bottom nut to back off the pressure from below. Just don't remove the large nut completely. You can mark the arm position on the shaft if you want. Mark/ lightly scribe it UNDER the arm. Then it takes some liquid wrench, or other penetrating oil, and lots and LOTS of tapping on the arm to free the taper rings.

To remove the arm from the shaft, you need to remove the large shaft nut, and the tool lock pins, etc... Don't remove the arm if you don't have to.

The trick is tightening clamp ring back.
Obviously the machine has to be on. And MAKE sure the z-axis is at z-zero!!!
Replace two of the cap screws in the shaft clamp with hex head bolts, you can put the other caps screws in, but leave them loose. Then raise the arm. Rotate the arm into position, and use the large nut to set the correct height. Tighten the 2 hex head bolts, as tight as you feel you can. The arm should be tight on the shaft. Then lower the arm, tighten the 4 other cap screws, remove the hex head bolts, and replace the last 2 cap screws. If you did it right, you won't have to adjust anything. I should be easier, to loosen the taper clamp, if you need to do it again.

[Sierra Nevada]

I still can not get anything to loosen up. I have turned on the machine and tapped the shaft upwards with a 6 pound sledge(aluminum in between) and still nothing. I have taken some pics and posted them maybe this will help clear things up?
By the way thanks for the help!!

[Sierra Nevada]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/44401439@N07/?saved=1