1" NPT O.D. Thread in Caps?

[Chuck Pressure]

Hey guys!

Next week I need to thread 1" npt thread and I would like to do it in caps if possible, sooo if any of you experts can give me some advise on what to enter in the tapered thread menu I would much appreciate it!

What has me stumped is the box labeled "STD.LNG.?????? the manual is real sketchy on the explanation for this.......it says, "Set the standard length of the tapered thread" (MM).... Well thats all fine and dandy but the next box ask's for thread length!

I want to get the numbers as close as possible first time because I'm finishing the last thread really close to the chuck jaws and I'm a little nervous about this!

T.I.A

[HuFlungDung]

Check machinery's handbook. There are a few different lengths given, one being effective thread length, which is the usable length, and then there is the runout length caused by cutting with a die, which is longer because those threads are useless in function.

Then, you have to make allowance for the distance of the tool from the actual end of the work, to allow for spindle acceleration. There are several different things it could be.

Ya know, you can trial run the program well away from the chuck without a workpiece to be wrecked

[Chuck Pressure]

Thanks Hu!
Trust me, I will be dry running this part away from the chuck......need one of those anal activated e-stops though!

[macca22]

Usually the ist length in Tapered threads relates to where the Smaller Diameter of the thread starts,I.E "0".
Where you have also given the Crest Diameter.then you give actual length and Taper.
If cutting up to shoulders turn off the runout.

[Chuck Pressure]

Originally Posted by macca22 Usually the ist length in Tapered threads relates to where the Smaller Diameter of the thread starts,I.E "0". Where you have also given the Crest Diameter.then you give actual length and Taper. If cutting up to shoulders turn off the runout.

Thanks for that info, this thread is kinda old but I ended up handwriting the thread code and the parts came out great. If anybody would like to use my thread code P.M. me and I'll shoot you a copy!

[underthetire]

Originally Posted by Chuck Pressure Thanks Hu! Trust me, I will be dry running this part away from the chuck......need one of those anal activated e-stops though!

We call those a sfincter switch or a duck tail. Just two pieces of brass glued one to each ass cheek. Pucker panic button.

[Chuck Pressure]

Originally Posted by underthetire We call those a sfincter switch or a duck tail. Just two pieces of brass glued one to each ass cheek. Pucker panic button.

LOL!

[the thrill]

Where i'm from we call it the pucker plug. Although invasive, a real nice option to purchase with the machine... I hear they're working on pucker pants with a contactor in each back pocket but the repeatability isn't quite there yet... The benefit of the original pucker plug is that you don't mess yourself when you have a real big crash

[Chuck Pressure]

Originally Posted by the thrill Where i'm from we call it the pucker plug. Although invasive, a real nice option to purchase with the machine... I hear they're working on pucker pants with a contactor in each back pocket but the repeatability isn't quite there yet... The benefit of the original pucker plug is that you don't mess yourself when you have a real big crash

LOL! I didn't see that on the options list, Mori must have added this feature after we bought our machine!

[underthetire]

Originally Posted by the thrill Where i'm from we call it the pucker plug. Although invasive, a real nice option to purchase with the machine... I hear they're working on pucker pants with a contactor in each back pocket but the repeatability isn't quite there yet... The benefit of the original pucker plug is that you don't mess yourself when you have a real big crash

Don't worry, Mori has addressed that problem. You now have a swarf conveyor to carry away your mess ! Then they turn it to green energy. problem solved!