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#1
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HI ALL My work place bought Mori Seiki NL3000Y few weeks back brand new. Programming with caps is easy enough, machine itself is really good. Only one problem, I never used steady rest before and I was seaching in the programming manual and on the web, I did not find much info. I dont want to do anything nasty to that steady rest. So if you guys can help me out, with sample programs or tips that would be great. thank you |
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#2
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| Well, one tip I can give you and will save you a lot of mess are alway home in X then index the tool, don't try save couple seconds in cycle time then end up sorry. Watch your rapid Z clearance, special before engrave the piece. Everything else is pretty much same.
__________________ The best way to learn is trial error. |
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#3
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| The steady rest is controlled by M codes. Look in the help section on the control. The Mori steady rests have coolant that shots out on the rollers to keep chips out as well as keep the part cool. I saw some info on this yesterday while playing with my 3000Y-1250. What bed length do you have? The steady rest can be used for all sorts of things. You can use the tailstock with it. Use it to center drill a long part then use the tailstock to turn it. I hear that the programmable steady rest can even transfer a part from the main spindle to counter spindle on the NT. |
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#4
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| Hi Bud we have NL3000Y/2000 mori lathe. Steady rest has a air purge and A-axis which is steady rest and tailstock is V-axis both of them are programmable. Between steady rest and tailstock has a safety zone, so you can not crash them. there are M codes to open and close steady rest and to clamp the steady rest. My problem is that i never used steady rest before and my boss gave me part 12inch dia and 5ft long I have to turn the od, now when i am turning od and steady rest is in use do i need to clamp to one position or i can move it i dont know? when i turn the od where steady rest is holding what is going to happen? so i kind of stuck, i dont want damage the steady rest or the machine. |
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#5
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| Are you using the tailstock? I have seen a Haas with a steady rest that was using both. The steady rest would hold the part up until the tool got to the steady rest. The steady rest would release. the tool would cut past the steady rest, then the steady rest would reclamp. I wouldn't release the steady rest without the tailstock being in place with a part that big. i think that the rollers should be placed at a point on the part that is not a critical dimension or have a specific surface finish. If the part allows it, I would use the tailstock and only use the steady rest if you need it due to chatter. If you can, post a pic of the setup. I would like to see it. |
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#6
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| first thing you need to do is skim cut to true the material for the steady rest to hold it. so your first operation is to hold it with the tailstock, cut the true cut, grab with the steady rest. after that, as long as you keep the steady rest in contact with the part, you don't need the tailstock unless you're doing a REALLY long part... in that case, keep your steady in a spot where you can do the majority of your work (using the tailstock), unclamp the steady, reposition it to a safe spot, clamp and final machine. |
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