Clamp prox.

[emexcee380]

Hey guys,

The turret CLAMP FIN prox. ("LS14") failed on our Mori ZL-15SM. The prox. -
Yamatake Honeywell 2FS-5895-901 - is obsolete and no longer available.

Mori used these prox. switches on many of their machine models built in the 80's. Certainly someone has found a "plug and play" replacement that they can recommend. (Altheman or Underthetire, are you gurus out there ?)

The oem prox. is a 3-wire type, normally open. I don't know if it's PNP or NPN.
The input signal from prox. is X3004.3

HELP !

emexcee380

[Al_The_Man]

I have many older Honeywell catalogues but it does not show them.
It is not usually hard to figure it out, obviously the physical dimensions are obvious, then you need to identify if 2 wire or 3 wire, then voltage rating by measurement of the + & common supply to the Prox.
The PNP or NPN is decided by whether the input is sink or source.
If you have a manual that shows a detail of the input style, you can tell by that, if not, you need to know if the input supplies the source, if no manual then the input open circuit voltage needs to be read with respect to common, does it read +ve? if so it is source and the prox will be NPN.
If the O.C. voltage is 0v then the prox sources the type used will be PNP.
Al.

[underthetire]

Can't give away all my secrets

Balluff BES516
Omron 2 wire from grainger. (probably 10mmX35mm)

Yours used an old 3 wire prox. the new ones are typicaly 2 wire, they will work. Most likely is is a PNP. Mori pretty much stopped the NPN stuff after the 6 control.

[Al_The_Man]

If two wire they are not rated PNP/NPN just polarity as you can use them for sink or source.
BTW BES-516 covers 10 pages and comes in all shapes sizes and configurations, the whole number is needed.
Al.

[emexcee380]

Mr's Tire and Man,

Thanks for your prompt, knowledgeable responses from two GIANTS in the CNC world. (I'M NOT WORTHY !! I'M NOT WORTHY !!)

So my local Mori distributor sold me a prox. that was 'sposed to be the replacement. It's a Yamatake FL2B-2J6, 2-wire, normally open.

My oem prox. was a 3-wire type. Red (+24vdc) to Vcc, Black (0vdc) to 0V, and White (signal) to OUT.

I assumed that I would connect both the Red and White to the "+V" terminal and the Black to the "0V" terminal of the new 2-wire prox.

In this configuration my input signal (X3004.3) is ON before the prox. is made. Making the prox. does not change the input status. Since this didn't work, I tried connecting just the 0V (Black) and signal (White) wires. No difference.

Don't know what's up with the new switch but I've ordered a used (oem style) for $100 bucks from Ebay. Hope that solves the problem.

What I cannot wrap my shiny head around is "How the @#$% does Mori deal with this for their service guys who must see this type problem often?" These
prox's were used on both machining centers and turning centers built in the 80's. (Heck, our ZL has at least 6 of these on it.) There must be multiple hundreds of these waiting to fail. Seems like someone would have found a "plug and play" replacement. ( Please don't send me a bill for therapy - I'm just venting.)

Thanks again for your responses - you guys are great !

emexcee380

Error 404: File Not Found

[Al_The_Man]

With a 2-wire you do NOT connect to + & common, you may have blown the prox?
UTT mentions it is PNP, source, if so you would connect the +prox wire to the input and the black to common, the +ve supply would be left open.
If we find out the original is a 3 wire PNP, I can give you a full Balluff number that should work, if you need it.
Al.

[Al_The_Man]

Oh-oh I gave you a bum steer, but it would not harm the prox, if PNP the 2 wire would go Red to +ve and the black to input.
Al.

[underthetire]

Al is correct. ( his second answer)

[emexcee380]

Well, that's one configuration I didn't try. If my Ebay prox. doesn't come tomorrow, I'll try your recommendation

Thanks guys !!

emexcee380

[underthetire]

Wait, they sold you a rectangular one? The ZL doesn't have the round prox switch for the clamp? Never seen them use anything other than the round ones for chuck clamp/unclamp.

If it's the rectangular ones, I have a prox cross reference sheet at home that listed those, and what the replacement was. It was always a huge PIA getting the correct ones. I think i finally got the correct ones from all world last time. Mori kept sending the wrong ones.

[underthetire]

Never mind, stupid me. It was too early. TURRET CLAMP, duh.

[underthetire]

The one they sold you should be the correct one. + in, signal out, cap the 0v signal.