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Hi all,
We will be getting our new Mori delivered soon, and we're all very eager to start making chips!
Our shop has Mazak and Okuma machines (and controls) so the Mori will be a welcome breath of fresh air.
I was wondering if anyone out there had any tips or tricks they'd like to share, in regards to this style of machine. A heads-up on any possible traps would be nice to know too.
Anyway, I've heard so many good things about the Mori Seiki brand that I don't anticipate too many problems.
Best regards, Dave.
good machines. only downside is X axis creep - about .002".
Have you ever run a 2 turret 2 spindle machine? The biggest thing will be sync codes (m100-197). Aside from that, programs like any other live tooled Y axis machine...
If it's a MAPPS 4, i feel bad for you, though... CE safety specifications on the new machines make it virtually impossible to set up the machine without having the door closed (an oxymoron, i know)
thanks Thrill,
I agree the CE is a major pain! I can't recall exactly, I think we're getting the MAPPS III (but it is a new machine).
We have a Macturn 250W but the bottom turret is turning only, and a Multus. Both have the 2nd spindle.
The Mazaks here are MS and MSY models, with sub-spindles also.
So we have plenty of sub and live tool experience, some Y-axis experience, and a little bit of syncronising experience.
I've picked myself and our Tornos (12 axes) guy to learn the Mori. I think he'll be relieved to have just eight axes now
well if it has soft keys on the side of the screen it's a newer MAPPS 3 unit and will probably have the same BS CE spec... such a pain. Is it NEW new or "new" new? What I mean is that it could have possibly been a showroom machine used for test cuts and demos that the distributors still sell as "new" even though it has a few hours on it. It's possible it was a warehouse machine, too, though - sitting in stock waiting for someone to buy it. Either way I hope you were able to get a few bucks off of it (being a MAPPS 3 machine and all). The MAPPS 4 machines are nice because they offer both the CAPS conversational as well as a seat of Esprit included in the price of the machine but again that CE spec... downright awful. You can have an older specification ladder installed where you can actually work on the machine with the door open but you have to sign a liability waiver and go through tons of red tape (the brass at mori LOVES paperwork!)
I've done a lot of work on both the T2Y (non-Y lower) and the T3Y3. As I said they are great machines. I worked for Mori for nearly 5 years and then for a distributor for a year and have logged many hours on the NZ, NT and NMV machines... let me know if you have any issues with it and i'll see if I can help out.
Ha, mapps 4 and the Jan/09 CE ! Believe it or not, our Duras came in with Mapps 4 and the new CE. Couldn't open the door, even in Op stop without hitting reset. The next batch came in and low and behold, you could. Took ladder file out of the two new ones, put it in the originals and walla, problem solved !
It's probably Mapps 4, as we are getting the Esprit thing with it too.
Yes, it's brand new, we've been waiting months for it to come off the "line" in Japan. At first it was ahead of schedule, then lost a bit and was only "on schedule", lost some more each time we checked it's progress and is now rather late. Especially as they shipped it to Sydney instead of here in Brisbane. Any day now, any day...
you guys are talking about the new safety standards what i don't understand is why the tailstock retracts when you open the door. If you run your finish pass oversized so you can mic. it and make a final adjustment the parts become scrap. I know a shop trying to hold .0002" and can't do it with the new moris. However with the Doosan's they can. Mori's are great machines but harder to work with and work on plus more expensive than many machines. I would stick to doosan or mazak atleast unless they adopt the new safety stuff mori has done which i suppose is partly due to the dmg merger as the germans over engineer safety items.
I was wondering how much of a hassle it is to install and remove the touch setter at each setup?
How good/bad is the view through the door?
Is the Esprit any easier/harder to use at the machine compared with a pc in the office (our machine will be at the far end of the workshop, furthest from the office)?
Will there be a million parameters that need tweaking before I'm happy (like the Okuma's)?
We'll be hooking up an LNS Move S2 barfeeder as well.
Can you elaborate further on your comment please? Circumstances, time, heat, etc.Originally Posted by the thrill
Been running a T2Y2 for about 6 months:
Installation and removal of the setter arms is easy, and "seem" to be reasonably repeatable. However, if you need to touch off a new tool with parts already in either chuck is problematic as the setter is pretty tight to the face of the jaws. The setter behind the 2nd spindle is more of a problem unless you have really long arms. You have to manually jog the lower turret out of the way before you can reach it easily.
Always turn off the setting function before removing the setter or you will hose your offsets.
Load monitoring is your friend
Thanks for the pointers xenginebuilder.
Our "3rd week of November install" forecast has been and gone. If the installation (when we finally get it) goes anything like our last two machines, we should just be making parts by the end of the month (Jan)!
HOORAY, it's finally here.
It's pouring with rain again, so that made it extra fun for everyone unloading it.
Placed into position very quickly by Websters. A very professional crew. They were all packed and gone by 11am. (They had to move another machining-center about 200mm as well, so it could fit on the one slab.)
Now the fun begins!
I’m trying to bar feed a long shaft and I want to use the sub spindle pull method. I have figured this part out the only thing that does not make sense is what do I do when the bar is on its last part before the bar reload? It looks like the sub will pull the bar out of spindle 1 and there won’t be anything to hold on to, also the part will be too long and left with an inch or so.
I hope this made sense
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