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Thread: Fastening Right Outer Skin

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    Question Fastening Right Outer Skin

    Quick question on how to connect the right outer skin to the rib pieces and top plate. With this skin being 3/4" thick I am figuring the nails won't go deep enough into the ribs. Did you guys (the ones who have finished bases) use a longer nail or screws? I like the screw option but have concerns that it will split the ribs and top plate going into the side of the plywood.

    Thanks, Dave


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    I used 1.25" screws. I countersunk them pretty deep and then filled/sanded the holes flush.

    Randy


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    Thanks Randy, I will probably do a test connection with some scrap pieces to double check that the plywood doesn't split. I also need to make a couple of extra holes in rib or skin to allow for the install if the motor cables.

    Dave


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    Glue, and glue only.

    Modern woodworking glue is stronger than the wood. Since you are dealing with the edge of plywood, I like to make sure I get a complete thin coat on the edge. then, apply glue to the opposite piece and then go back and add a little glue to the ply edges. You don't want glue squeezing out everywhere, but you want to make darned sure everything that touches gets wetted with glue.

    And you need a butt load of clamps...


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    I used glue and two buttloads of brad nails to build my base.

    billj


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    Same here Brad nails and glue


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    Forgot to mention,

    The screws I used took the place of a "butt load" of clamps while the liberally applied yellow glue (Titebond) dried. I also pre-drilled and counter-sunk them to eliminate splitting issues.

    Michael is correct - when working with wood, glue's the thing. Especially when vibration is involved. Both screws and nails will loosen over time. Glue will not!

    Regards,

    Randy


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    I also glued and screwed. I agree that the screws (or brads, finish nails, etc.) are primarily there to provide clamping pressure until the glue dries. It is all about the glue. Like Randy, I also filled and sanded the slightly countersunk screw heads.

    -Bob


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    Thanks

    Thanks for the replies folks. I went the glued and screwed route in the end. Used a couple of clamps to temporarily hold it so I could align it before putting the screws in. Worked like a charm, nothing split and well held together.

    Rookie mistake, put the glue on the inside face of the skin instead of on the outside face of the ribs. Excess glue that I will have to let dry and then scrap off. Oh well if that is the worst thing that happens should be OK.

    Dave


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    Quote Originally Posted by kemper45 View Post
    Thanks for the replies folks. I went the glued and screwed route in the end. Used a couple of clamps to temporarily hold it so I could align it before putting the screws in. Worked like a charm, nothing split and well held together.

    Rookie mistake, put the glue on the inside face of the skin instead of on the outside face of the ribs. Excess glue that I will have to let dry and then scrap off. Oh well if that is the worst thing that happens should be OK.

    Dave
    depending on what glue you used you might regret letting it dry and trying to scrape it off. For future reference, excess glue can be easily removed with a wet rag assuming you are not using an epoxy based glue in which denatured alcohol or mineral spirits would be the choice.

    billj


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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael In Cali View Post
    Glue, and glue only.

    Modern woodworking glue is stronger than the wood. Since you are dealing with the edge of plywood, I like to make sure I get a complete thin coat on the edge. then, apply glue to the opposite piece and then go back and add a little glue to the ply edges. You don't want glue squeezing out everywhere, but you want to make darned sure everything that touches gets wetted with glue.

    And you need a butt load of clamps...
    This is important... the edge of the plywood is half endgrain, and that sucks glue like a straw, so it's important to "size" the edge with glue, then wait, and re-apply the glue, so the joint is not starved. You could keep a moist rag nearby with a chisel and scraper, and clean the glue off before it sets, or use blue tape on all adjacent surfaces, which makes removing the glue way easier, but takes a lot of time...


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    I did use a wet rag to clean up glue that was squeezed out as I applied the screws. It wasn't until later when I moved the base to get ready for the left side skin that I noticed the glue on the back of the right skin. It is really just a "cosmetic" issue that 99.9% of the time will never get noticed. But I know it's there and that will bug me a bit.

    I wil try a quick scrap of it tonite and if doesn't come off easy then it will stay there.

    Thanks, Dave


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