Oh my, that's nice.Tell me what you think....
Last thing, I changed the four clamping posts to 5/16-18 all-thread with full insertion. I tapped from the top of the spacer to the bottom of the rail to get quite a bit more of holding force on the studs. The 1/4-20 studs are all full insertion, I opted not to do the countersink.
Billj
Oh my, that's nice.Tell me what you think....
Looks good..... where is my set ?
Bill,
Based on your other postings, I'm assuming that this new machine is the one that will have leadscrews on X and Y. Care to share what you are planning? Type, diameter, pitch, etc.?
What kind of overall accuracy/precision/resolution numbers are you aiming for?
I'm looking forward to seeing this build progress.
-Bob
Bob,
Doing this in steps. This second machine will have a little more added work area for X and Y with some mods done to the bearing positions similar to what I did with the carriage. The carriage for the most part will not get any further changes, I just wanted it more rigid and easier to remove without disassembling the entire gantry. The next parts will be the rails that hold the bearings to the X rails. Instead of two pieces (top and bottom) I will be making them one piece as well with the centers cut-out to slide them onto the gantry squarely. Shouldn't need a square to align at each end. Also on the left side I will integrate the Y belt bearing mount. I also will stiffen up the gantry for the added length. Once everything is built and working I will change out the belts for the screw-drive. Most of the screw-drive design is still in my head and will most likely use 1/2" acme with a bearing at one end and the stepper at the other, won't know til I CAD it all. New stepper mounts will have to be designed but that is the easy part. I will still use the anti-backlash nut but plan to use a few more things to try to completely remove any chance of backlash. Again, those revisions are about a month out. Want to build the bigger machine first, make sure it does what I want, then move to changing the design a bit (mostly for fun). As far as accuracy, unfortunately as long as I am using steppers then I am at the mercy of the manufacturer plus whatever I introduce, more on this when the time comes. Was thinking of servo motors/encoders to really tighten things up but still debating if the cost is neccessary since I really only built the machine to do guitar bodies. The metal machining was just an added bonus and amplified the addiction. Since I will be doing more machining on this over the next few days I will create a new build thread for it. I was going to strip the first machine down but at this point with two carriages I have opted to build a whole new one. Who knows, I may sell the first one to recover the cost for the secondAnyone interested
Billj
Hi all, I am assembling my unit now and changes have been as discussed by others that of having base same size each side and x rails same height. I also canterlevered out the rails with none of the machining of the left and right side inner panels. I also added an extra left and right top plate to give more thickness up there. Because I am building here in NZ most stock is metric so some measurements are a bit different. Luckily our 3/4" square aluminium was still 3/4 square from old dies. i used stainless steel 304 for rails and had to fabricate from steel the z nut mount and the z stepper mount. The gantry is from steel RHS lightened into a girder form. Lookls good so far and am looking forward to "blast off".
Rayna
Bill - I'm curious about the carriage bolt mod you did on your first machine. Did you really go with 4 x 5/8" bolts? Did you increase the size of parts 16, 22, and 23 to accomodate that large of a hole, or maybe it was really 5/16" (the size I'm planning)? Did you need to countersink those? I can't tell from the plans if cap heads would interfere with the Z axis. Thanks!
I used 5/16-18 cap heads, sorry if there was a typo in another thread. The cap heads fit nicely in the already countersunk holes without needing any further machining if I recall correctly. The one bolt behind the lead screw I used a standard bolt because the lead screw was in the way of the allen heah otherwise and I wanted to be able to torque it down once all was together. The second carriage mod I did I used allthread and did not use countersinks in the 4 locations. I wanted more thread to glue to.
Hope this helps...
billj
I'm working on new mount for Bosch Colt , its going to be out of aluminum and will have small rail on the back so its easier to square it and it won't move/twist when cutting. its not done yet I still have to finish up upper clamp (have to cut it in half and make little ears for srews) but this will give you idea how it will look.
let me know any comments.