HF 7x10 boring/tool help

[fpm]

Hey guys, back again with more questions.
I have been practicing alot withthe HF7x10 I have. Having fun with it. I started at @300 rpm making 0.025mm passes, now I can to 0.075mm passes and increasing the speed to @ 600rpm I can only assume since the HF is made kinda cheaply, that it really doesn't get moving (the chuck) til just past the second bar on the dial? And I can do 0.125mm cuts on facing with a bit higher speed. Is all this OK, or do I have to keep the aluminum and cold roll steel down in the 300's like mini-lathe recommends? All the speeds I have seen on youtube are rather fast.

Any way I would like more info on boring and making inside diameters.
I am making spacers, and need a 20mm centers I.D. (the spacer is 35mm diameter O.D.). I tried a 3/4 inch drill bit and milled out the difference with one of the 5/16 angled bits with a few passes. Seems alittle neantherthal-ish,but it's the only way I can figure out how to make that big a hole. lol.
Now the question. What boring tool can I use to get a 20mm diameter center? Continue doing my method or is there a simplier way? My non HSS 3/4 bit is now dull and Home Depot is out of this particular bit.
I would like someone to show me what I need exactly and I will buy it!
I want to make spacers that are 35mm O.D. X 20mm I.D. X 25mm long(thick).

Any help would really be appreciated.

This is what I have been practicing with 6061 ally. Frame slider dimensions.........



It's not rocket science but IF I can one day make some motorcycle parts, that I would have really accomplished
something! People have asked me several times about my custom motorcycle's single sided swing arm. I measured the spacers and now I practicing on making them myself and cutting out the middle man that made them
for me! The material is cheap, it's the labor and know that costs money.
-FPM

[devincox]

here is a link to an indexible boring bar that makes boring holes nice, however it depends on what kind of toolpost you have on your lathe. (stock rocker or qctp etc.)

http://www.shars.com/product_categor...g_Tools?page=2

A bit of advise, I make sliders for my zx10 and recently had to use them. As I am now recovering from a 140mph lowside, at a race track. (broken neck and stuff). I would advise against making them in aluminum. It looks nice but tends to grab more than slide and this causes the bike to tumble instead of slide.

Delrin or some type of hard nylon is a better choice and usually cheaper to purchase in stock. the delrin is also way easier on the tools, if you plan on making a bunch. You can also buy the delrin in colors to match the bikes, even kawasaki green. (c:

Devin

[ibuildstuff4u]

First of all, speed up the lathe! You should run it much faster when cutting aluminum or other soft material and will get a better finish. Most of the time I run mine at full speed when working with aluminum. At least bring it up to 800 to 1000 RPM.

As for making a large hole, use the largest drill bit possible and then finish it up with a few passes using a boring bar such as the one shown in the link that devin posted. As for drill bits, I bought a 1/2" to 1" Silver and Dreming set from Harbor Freight and they work great on aluminum. Just make sure to use some lube on the bit to keep it from over heating.

Your second choice is to use a chucking reamer to finish the hole to the size you want. Just drill a hole .030 smaller than the finish size you want and use the reamer to remove the last of the material. This would be the fastest way to make the hole, but you will have to buy the correct reamer and it could be a little pricey in this size.

Good luck!

Dale P.

[fpm]

Guys thanks for relying. It has been making parts and I am getting closer to what I want to finish. So I appreciate the input.
I bought the 5 piece countersink/center drill set to start the hole. They work great. The only thing is that after when I use the 5 inch 15/32" HSS drill bit is so long the first initial press in on the part is moves a TINY bit. If I am using a 7/16 center drill, how far do I go in? the 7/16only to start of the area past it? I have been going the entire way-as far as I can with the center drill.
The scenario:
I milled cold roll steel down to 16.96mm O.D. Then the 7/16 center drill. Than I used a 15/32" HSS titanium drill bit to make the hole as it passes thought. It flexed alittle. WHen I did the measurements. I came out to 12.04 on one end and 12.00 on the other. The chart shows 15/32" to be 11.9mm.
So how do I fix this?

Oh and Devin, I'll take your avise about the sliders! Good to see another fellow Kawi rider on the board!
-FPM

[devincox]

post up some pics of the sliders and the bike when complete. (c;
I'll be making some new ones myself, the old ones got really chewed up in the crash, but the worked. I also made some for the swingarm, they got chewed up as well. but my swingarm and frame are in perfect condition.

Devin

[fpm]

Devin, here is my motorcycle. A Muzzy Raptor Replica. Down to the 3M graphic sticker reproduction....since Muzzy practically hung up with me when I asked to some authentic stickers. lol.


I got into lathing to make the spacers needed for this conversion. And hopefully move onto other bikes with SSSA's. You'd be surprised by the simplicity of it all. 2 Dogbone spacers, 1 dogbone bearing sleeve, 1 right hand swingarm collar, and a right side frame spacer. 5 parts that need to be made to get the vfr750 swingarm on the 96-03 ZX7R frame. I paid $1,000 in different spacer attempts to get the swingarm right. Now I have the parts and want to reproduce them.
It's been jogging in my brain for over 1 yr now, and I can now make it with Kawasaki ZX7R, and Honda VFR800 parts. And some spacers on my mini lathe. It's basically simple. I just need to fine tune my cuts. Everyday I have off I've been practicing on the lathe.
-fpm

[devincox]

Dang! That is sweet! I havent even heard of that conversion, much less seen it. that is very nice indeed. What kind of rims are those?

Do you have a site with more pics and info on the swap?

Thanks,
Devin

[fpm]

The rims are Marchesini's. The rear is a rare 17x6 (17x5.5 is the more common as you may know) magnesium Ducati 748-916 rim, the front is a modified 17x3.5 ZX6R aluminum rim. Modified to fit the ZX7R. What a pain that was!
My motorcycle is a real head turner. Many of us 30+ guys recall the bike.
Gregg's Customs does SSSA mods, but they wanted $6,000! And RAM; Race Applications Moracco wanted $4,000 for theirs. I did my conversion for @ $2,300. That includes the Honda VFR swingarm, the Triumph hub assembly, the custom spacers to make the Marchesini rim fit the entire thing!
I would like to make the spacers since alot of 7R owners have asked me for the measurements. And try to make my money back. lol. I rather learn and sell them, than to give the info away for free,after spending all that $$$$$.

here is the original Muzzy Raptor, with Marchesini's and the RAM siwngarm. This was from a 1997 motorcycle magazine.

-Fpm

[devincox]

I bet a lot of the money for the conversion was spent on the rims. (c:
Very nice setup. Looks like it came that way.

Devin

[ibuildstuff4u]

The bike looks great! Thanks for sharing the picts.


A few posts down you asked about drilling an accurate hole in the stock your working with and how to do it. The answer is quite simple, you can't. Drill bits do not drill round holes and can not be used for making accurate sized holes. You can get them close enough for a lot of applications, but never accurate to with in a few thousands. There are a few things you can do to make them closer to the size you want, but they will never be exact.

To drill an accurate hole you start off with a center drill. Then move up to a pilot drill and drill to the full depth if possible. Then finish with the drill bit you want for the final size. Some times I find it better to use a bit one size smaller than the finish size before drilling with the finishing bit. I can get the final hole is quite close to the size I want by using this method.

Seeing the pilot bit flex a little is normal because your forcing a 118* or 135* drill bit into a 60* chamfer that the center drill left. A spoting drill bit may help resolve this problem because it has the same profile as your drill bits, but is short and stiff so it will find the center of your work with out walking. Also make sure your tail stock is centered with the chuck and the lathe bed is level.

The only way to make an accurate hole is to bore it out or use a chucking reamer as I mentioned below in the post.

Good luck with the parts.

Dale P.

[fpm]

Ibuild4u. Ah ha! I went ahead and purchased a stubby 15/32' drill bit from ebay prior to reading you post. I appreciate the information on drilling. I believe this is what you are talking about.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...AQ:MOTORS:1123
Seems I really need the perfect circle for the cold roll bearing sleeve. 39.20mm long x 16.96mm outside diameter x 11.90mm hole. I drilled my other attempts with a 31/64 and did a 12.34mm. Way too big. The aluminum chunky spacers don't really have to be perfect since they are just spacing out the overall width of the swingarm pivot joint.---Hard to explain.
I will take your advise and center drill, than pilot drill, then bore it.
I found a guy on ebay that can cut down a reamer for me to fit my 1/2" chuck and get rid of some of the extra length.
I only need to move through the 39.20mm, so I will get a hold of him.
The guy that made my spacers, I measured it and it was 12.34mm like what I did. I didn't think much of it at first,but that is too much play for the bolt that slides into it to be moving around as the swingarm goes up and down!
-fpm