Microlux 7x14 Mini Lathe Conversion

[Crevice Reamer]

You will also need some other stuff:

You can use THIS wire for motor cables and home/limit switches. Ground the drain wire ONLY at the driver end.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Servo-Motor-Wire...3286.m20.l1116
You won't need any db9 motor connectors with the G540, as they come WITH it. The G540 also has circuitry for simple spindle speed control and outputs for dc relays to turn coolant pump on or off.

These inexpensive relays are very good :

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...tname=electric

You WILL need 2.8K 1/4 watt current limiting resistors, one for each motor. You can get them here:

http://www.digikey.com/

If you don't already HAVE them, these are excellent home switches:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...%3D4%26ps%3D42

They are NO, so only for home switches. Limit switches need to be NC. the whole set of 6 switches costs less than ONE switch would cost at Radio Shack.

These simulated roller limits from Enco will do fine and only cost $2.95 each. Now you know what a deal the home switches are.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...MITEM=317-6325

You will also need an estop switch. This one from Keling only costs 10 bucks and works fine:

http://kelinginc.net/CNCPackage.html

On that same page are helical connectors. These are best for low backlash. I haven't tried Keling's, but they LOOK good.

The G540 is so small that many are mounting theirs INSIDE the computer case.

Camtronics has a case MADE for the G540:

http://s120220635.onlinehome.us/stepper-components.asp

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

Originally Posted by TacPyro This is my project parts list to date. Both lathe and mill will receive a CNC conversion with the lathe coming first. The following list reflects all costs associated with the addition of both tools to the shop, and the conversion for the lathe. Lathe- Grizzly G0602 10x22 $1050 w/ shipping Mill-Grizzly G0619/Super X3 $1490 w/ shipping X3 tool package from Little Machine Shop $ 300 wo/ shipping AXA quick change tool post $ 155 wo/shipping G540 controller $300 wo/ shipping 8C: KL23H284-35-4B (1/4” Dual shaft with a flat);387 oz-in $100 wo/ shipping KL-350-48 48V/7.3A 110V/230V $59.95 Ball screws and nuts, ball bearings etc. allowance of $400 Metal stock for machining parts for mounts and such $100 Miscellaneous electrical, wiring, plugs etc. $200 CAD,CAM, and control software $2500 Control computer $500 Other lathe tooling $500 Coolant system for lathe $100 Other shipping $200 Unseen costs $700 Shop mods $300 GRAND total: $8955 So... I have no idea what I will use for CAD, CAM software, but Mach3 looks good for control software. I really don't know where to source tooling for the 10x22 lathe, and I am curious what quick change tool posts people are using on this size of lathe? Is the X3 tool package from Little Machine Shop worth the money, or should I look for another package? What is a good computer for CNC control? CR, is that the PSU that you recommended? Is $400 feasible for the linear drive components: ball screws, nuts, bearings etc.? Am I missing anything? Thank you all for looking into this post, and please feel free to comment about changes that you feel could be made to the above list. I'm trying to nail this thing down as much as possible.

Yes, that is the PSU that I recommended.

That is a very nice X3 tool package, and it will get you started. I prefer to use same-shank size endmills and Tormach quick change end mill holders, and that is a way for you to go in future, but the collets and different sized EMs will start you off.

I have had very good service from these low-cost refurbished and one year guaranteed computers Get a fairly fast one with a parallel port and Win XP:

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...+lease+desktop

You can probably find a discarded CRT monitor for free.

I am partial to the SX3, for its belt drive and head tilt, but you should understand that most of the expensive features will be removed during CNC conversion. The motor is so sophisticated that no easy CNC speed controls are available. The standard, Mach3 speed controllable, X3 is the most bang-for-the-buck.

CR.

[TacPyro]

Good morning.

CR, you amaze me with your dedication to this forum.

Are you suggesting that I purchase the regular X3 mill due to its motor simplicity and features that aren't needed for CNC? I am interested in the SX3 due to its added features while it remains a manual mill. The motor can't be CNC controlled?
That link to control computers is great! Just what I needed.
In your opinion is $400 enough allocated toward ball screws, ball nuts, bearings, etc.?
Do people commonly run their CAD/CAM software on their control computer?
I know that this is a touchy subject, but any suggestions on CAD/CAM software?
Other lathe tooling for this size lathe; any tips. I am only familiar with the tools available for the smaller 7x lathes.

Anyone know of any special deals through Grizzly right now?

[Crevice Reamer]

Originally Posted by TacPyro Good morning. CR, you amaze me with your dedication to this forum.

Thanks! Like so many others here, I'm always glad to help if I can.

Are you suggesting that I purchase the regular X3 mill due to its motor simplicity and features that aren't needed for CNC? I am interested in the SX3 due to its added features while it remains a manual mill.

There have been problems with the quill DRO shorting and killing the motor drive. An extended quill is not as rigid as a fixed quill. I have removed DRO AND quill. Some find it useful and keep it even after conversion though.

The fancy push-button controls are impractical for CNC and probably an expensive source of trouble down the road.

The machine doesn't run quite slowly enough for the tapping/reverse feature to be useful--even manually.

I only over paid by $300 to get those useless features plus the quiet belt driven tilting head. I'm not sure I would pay the $500 extra for them now.

The motor can't be CNC controlled?

Not yet. Syil has tried with dismal results. I intend to replace both motor and controller. I DO like the motor enclosed in the SX3 head though.

That link to control computers is great! Just what I needed.

Glad you liked it. They have been good to me.

In your opinion is $400 enough allocated toward ball screws, ball nuts, bearings, etc.?

Probably, but who knows? Are we talking about the Lathe? The Mill? Both? Ball screws are an area where it's worth spending some extra money, but you could literally spend thousands to get the best, so some discretion is required.

I found the CNCFusion $1000 deluxe X3 kit to be well worth the extra money because of the premium ball screws, preloaded ball nuts and angular contact bearings.

Do people commonly run their CAD/CAM software on their control computer?

I don't run CAD software on my Mill computer. Others may.

I know that this is a touchy subject, but any suggestions on CAD/CAM software?

Everyone has an opinion. A lot depends on how much you want to spend. Can you afford to spend more on software than the total machinery/CNC cost? Is this equipment for production or hobby use?

CR.

[TacPyro]

There have been problems with the quill DRO shorting and killing the motor drive. An extended quill is not as rigid as a fixed quill. I have removed DRO AND quill.
I apologize but I'm still a bit in the dark here. Is there a difference in the X3, and SX3 quill? What is a DRO?
Is the regular X3 much easier to CNC? I like the look of the SX3 in comparison to the X3, but that doesn't mean anything. In your very expert opinion which machine would you recommend I purchase for my uses given the facts that it will be used manually while I CNC the new lathe, and then be CNCd its self?
The $400 for ball screws, ball nuts, bearings etc. is only for the lathe. Am I within reason with this figure for descent hardware? The CNC Fusion kits do look nice, and I'll probably go that route when the time comes to do the mill.
What is the best way to transfer your G code data to your control computer from your design computer?
I would like to keep CAD, CAM software as low as possible but get what is necessary, and compatible. I have allocated $2,500 for this purpose, but it would be nice to stay under if possible.

[Crevice Reamer]

Originally Posted by TacPyro There have been problems with the quill DRO shorting and killing the motor drive. An extended quill is not as rigid as a fixed quill. I have removed DRO AND quill. I apologize but I'm still a bit in the dark here. Is there a difference in the X3, and SX3 quill? What is a DRO?

The SX3 has a cheap small battery operated Digital Read Out scale to measure depth of quill movement attached. This can be handy for manual machining, but is not essential.

Is the regular X3 much easier to CNC?

Both are equally easy (or hard) to CNC. The base, column and table are exactly the same.

[quote] I like the look of the SX3 in comparison to the X3, but that doesn't mean anything. In your very expert opinion which machine would you recommend I purchase for my uses given the facts that it will be used manually while I CNC the new lathe, and then be CNCd its self?

The SX3 is slightly easier to use manually. If you need a tilting head, or like the straight belt drive, it MAY be worth the extra money. But some of the most expensive features of the SX3 are its most glaring faults: Poor performing tapping function, Complicated and expensive electronic controls, Unwieldly motor speed control, possibly damaging quill DRO.

So I can't answer that for you.

My opinon though:

Sx3: slightly better manual mill. Quieter. Better looking Tilt head. somewhat more powerful motor. Not easily CNC speed controlled.

X3: Better CNC mill. Much less complicated and thus more reliable in the long run, and $40 speed control from CNC4PC will do the job.

The $400 for ball screws, ball nuts, bearings etc. is only for the lathe. Am I within reason with this figure for descent hardware? The CNC Fusion kits do look nice, and I'll probably go that route when the time comes to do the mill.

Four hundred is probably plenty if you are cutting and turning your own ballscrews--which the 7 x 14 would have trouble doing but the 10 x 20 will do like butter. And with that lathe, You may not NEED the ballscrew kit.

What is the best way to transfer your G code data to your control computer from your design computer?

What are the common transfer methods between the two? Floppy? CD ROM burner? Thumb drive? Network?

I would like to keep CAD, CAM software as low as possible but get what is necessary, and compatible. I have allocated $2,500 for this purpose, but it would be nice to stay under if possible.

You might want to start with simple CAM software like Cut2D or D2nc on the mill computer.

http://www.vectric.com/

CR.

http://www.d2nc.com/

[Crevice Reamer]

HOW HOSS TURNS BALL SCREWS ON 10 X 22:

http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread...=30385&page=54

CR.

[Crevice Reamer]

You know, I just thought of something that would make me STILL buy the SX3:

The internal motor-mounted-head leaves the left side of the head clean for the mount of stationary drill chucks and cut off tool for 4th axis table-lathe/bar feeder. This may not be essential to YOU, but would be critical for me, and I guess I WOULD pay the extra $500 after all.

CR.