How to Level a 2 point Lathe

[rwskinner]

This was a PM and I moved it here for additional comments.....

[QUOTE=I also have a new Grizzly and am in the process of setting it up now. I have a large lathe with 4 leveling feet and no problem with level procedure for it, however could you give me some pointers on how to level the Grizzly as it only has 2 lockdown bolts and no leveling feet? Would appreciate your input.

Thanks[/QUOTE]



Short Version:
You must first start by leveling your Table/Bench the best you can. Level the bed of the lathe both directions with a machinist level. Shims (even paper) can be inserted under the pedistal mounts to slightly tilt or twist the bed.

Longer Version:
Let start off stating that I have no idea how some of these folks are running this lathe on a lightly made wood work bench, or how some are not bolting them down. My first bench was 1/4 Steel plated top, and I could touch the machine with two fingers and make several thousands difference in the cut. It was much worst not being bolted down. I suspect the feet on this lathe are not machined very well, at least not on mine.

My new table has a rigid 1/2" plate steel top. I sanded and cleaned the spots where the lathe will mount. I took a machinist level and leveled the work bench the best I could. I mounted the lathe, leveled the lathe by adjustable legs (7/8" bolts) on the table/bench.

Once I had the lathe fairly level, I checked the bed ways in several places checking for twist. I was checking front to back level, using the machinst level on the saddle, then running the saddle back and forth very slowly from 1 end the the other. I noticed the right side or the tailstock side had a slight twist.

I ended up with 1 peice of paper under 1 edge of the right mounting point by the tail stock. I used a torque wrench to make sure I tightened the mounting bolts the same each time or it will change on you. After double checking I called the bed good. It was within 0.001 in 1 foot.

I checked alignment of the headstock and found it way off. 0.0025" per inch taper. Using the RDM method, I aligned the headstock by loosening 4 bolts (2 are behind the control panel plate). I got the head stock aligned then took a 1" steel rod 6" long and made several light cuts on it to verify there was no taper, or that it was within what I considered acceptable.

Next, is to align the tailstock to the head. I was over 1/4" off on that even though the inspection report showed 0.0006"

I have not had time to finish the tail stock alignment but I'm sure I will today or tomorrow. I will do this with a ground rod between two centers, tune it in then finish off by turning a rod between two centers and eliminating any taper.

Although I hear most of the 602's come very close, mine was very far out. Thank goodness it's highly adjustable!!! Some are not.

With a rod installed in the chuck, and a dial indicator on the saddle, I can no longer detect any noticable deflection when leaning on the table or lathe. I can deflect it about 0.001" if I try very hard but I will not be doing that on purpose during a machining process.

I will move this to the forum for additional input if you don't mind.

Richard