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#1
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Is there a complete, near complete, or "easy" setup CNC kit available for a HF 8x12 mini lathe? Or, would I be better off pursuing something like this: http://www.microkinetics.com/cnclathe.htm I would be turning complex curves in aluminum approx 3" diameter Thanks in advance for any help you can offer me Last edited by tinkering; 12-07-2006 at 02:38 PM. |
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#2
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| If you go with Microkinetics you better love their software because they use their proprietary control card and you have to use their software controller. The experience I had with their products several years ago left me with a pretty negative impression of their software and that opinion is supported by others. MACH3 has a lathe controller. The CAM software for lathe is a little more difficult to find but Dolphin Software has a lathe package. I suggested you get other opinions on the solution and find other guys that have done retrofits on a import lathe. |
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#3
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| At first I was looking into DIY CNC options for a Harbor Freight 8x12 (8x14) mini lathe, but then I started finding these CNC mini-lathes. I've found some others besides the microkinecs since I would prefer non-proprietary software if possible: http://www.microkinetics.com/btlathe.htm and here http://www.microkinetics.com/cncsys.htm http://www.maxnc.com/ http://www.flashcutcnc.com/html/mach_4400.html http://www.minitech.com/hardware/lat...thes_index.htm Are there mini CNC Mill/Lathe combos where the lathe is actually a lathe? I see 4-axis machines such as this one http://www.microkinetics.com/4axis.htm but it doesn't look like the lower portion would work as a lathe - like it only rotates the piece for the mill. How would I get 3" bar stock into one of these small lathes? Would I need to buy aluminum precut and tapped, or is there a chuck for lathes this small to get? |
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#5
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| I have no problem at all with 3" steel stock in my 9x30, which is just a longer bed than the 8x14's. Aluminum and brass are even easier. I've machined up to a 6" diameter cast iron blank. The latter had some chatter, but largely because I had to hold it with a spigot consisting of a bolt through the blank held in the 3-jaw chuck. Once I got through the crust and a little bit of diameter it was no problem turning it to make a backplate for a 5" 6-jaw chuck. Technique matters on these lathes, because they can chatter if not set up right. Parting off is one of the most touchy operations, followed closely by boring. Nevertheless, it can all be made to work quite well. With that said, if you have the room and $$$ for a 12x30-36 class lathe, they will be a lot more rigid. Best, BW |
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#7
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| Definately gonna need a bigger machine for that size part, especially if its steel or aluminum, or any metal actually. The 9X20 might handle it, or the lathemaster 20 inch, but I would look at a full size machine if you can afford it. CNC coversion is not difficult on a lathe, at least not as complicated as a mill.
__________________ Halfnutz (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#10
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| Ron Steele in Portland, OR has a kit. http://www.stirlingsteele.com/latheplans.html He is also very good with support. His products are top notch.
__________________ Direction, Commitment, Follow Through |
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#12
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| Gray
__________________ My advice is worth less then you paid for it. |
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