Newbie Questions! HF 9x20 vs 8x12

[medfoch]

Hi Thanks for all the great info found on this forum! After a LOT of reading I decieded that Machining was something I want to get into and HF mini mill ( X2 ) and 8x12 lathe was where I was going to start. I found a 20% off coupon on the net and went to my local store to pick up. When I got there I found out that the 8x12 is NOT carried by the local store and the only one they had was the 9x20. It was on sale for 650 - minus my 20% off coupon I got it for $519. I have it at home and taken out of the crate...but NOT plugged in.

The question is now - I am reading that the 8x12 is a better lathe than the 9x20 - should I return this lathe and order the 8x12? I purchased it knowing I would have to clean it up and make some adjustments, however I do want a tool that will last me a while... I plan to start using my machienes to make small aluminum and carbon fiber parts for R/C helicopter / car use.

I am in the process of trying to figure out what tooling / accessories I will need to get started...any suggestions on starter kits or where / what to buy would be greatly appreciated... I am sure I will learn this in time, however I am having trouble figuring out the right way to clamp a 1/2" round aluminum to a mill - the part I have in mind is about 1/2" x 1/2" round and I want to cut / mill it at a 45 deg angle - it will end up being a spacer of sorts...

Thanks for any advice!

[patmul]

Well, the 8x14 (not really an 8x12) has been something of a very pleasant surprise to quite a few people. It is heavy, sturdy, and well-built...though not necessarily well finished...particularly underneath.

Do a google on "8x14 lathe" and you'll find that the 8x14 is reported to be superior to just about any other imported mini-lathe.

I thoroughly researched mini-lathes myself last month...and bought a Lathemaster 8x14...essentially identical to the HF "8x12" but more expensive because of loads of tooling and excellent support. You can piece together a HF 8x12 with all the tooling and save some money...if you are very patient...which I am not! I need the lathe to work out of the box.

[Runner4404spd]

i've got a 9x20 and i love it. i don't think its any worse off than the 8x14. i admit i had to do alot of tweaking to it to get it to perform but i am now satisfied as it makes nice cuts and i can take about .030 roughing cuts in aluminum without too much effort.

[ZipSnipe]

It would be foolish to take back a bigger lathe and trade it in for a smaller(labor and time involved). I have a 9x20 and the only problem I,ve had with it was I had to replace the 3 jaw chuck because it was too out of spec. But with a new chuck its sweet. Just remember as you take your first cuts make sure the part is tightened good in the chuck and be careful not to crank the carriage into the spinning chuck. And as always be safety concious as the machines are a beautiful but deadly and unforgiving as well.

[acondit]

I too have a Grizzly 9x19 (9x20). If I were buying a new lathe to CNC today, I would buy the 8x14. However, I am probably not going to sell my 9x20 to buy a 8x14. I like the extra length and have dealt with most of the reasons why someone would choose an 8x14 over a 9x20.

Alan

[sanddrag]

Originally Posted by Runner4404spd i can take about .030 roughing cuts in aluminum without too much effort.

I can take .080 cuts in aluminum on my 8x12 and still come out with a good finish. When going that heavy (or in harder materials) on facing cuts, you really should lock the carraige though.

[S_J_H]

Make sure and join the 9x20 yahoo lathe group. Tons of info there.
My 9x is radically altered now.
I have been taking turning cuts of .125" deep( a full 1/8" diameter reduction) in aluminum and .1" with 12l14 steel using a solid plinth instead of the compound on my Grizzly 9X using Glanze tools with ccmt inserts. A very sharp HSS tool and I can hand feed .150"+DOC in aluminum.
It has a plenty rigid bed and carriage foundation to take these cuts but it does need some tweaking and modifying which can be minor to radical depending on how much you want out of the machine.

Steve

[DiscretePID]

The 9x20 and 8x14 share some of the same shortcomings, most notably the lack of a tumbler reverse gear. It isn't a big deal if you don't cut left handed thread on a regular bases. The 9x20 has a quick change gear box, but it also has additional issues that the 8x14 does not have. It sounds like you've already read about some of them.

I too did extensive research a while back and ended up buying a Lathemaster 8x14. The 9x20 lathe, like many Chinese mini lathes, is a "kit", requiring some work to be a good working machine. The 8x14 is much more ready to eat right out of the box. It can still be improved upon, of course.

I wish somebody who has both 9x20 and 8x14 would post a pic of the two lathe side by side. It will really highlight the differences in the two machines' build. The 9x20 may seem larger on paper, but at 229 lbs, it is only slightly heavier than the 190 lbs 8x14.

If I were you, unless you absolutely need the extra few inches of capacity, I would go return the the 9x20 and buy either the HF 8x12 or the Lathemaster 8x14. Even without the 20% coupon, you'll still end up paying less on the HF 8x12. The Lathemaster version is much better accessorized and priced accordingly. Personally, not having to hunt down the back splash guard and drip pan is reason enough to go Lathemaster. Bob Bertrand of Lathemaster is great to work with and adds a personal touch and peace of mind for any service issues that, to me, is invaluable.

[justin bowser]

Hmmm, the HF 9x20 I bought a coule of months ago came with all that you mentioned and so far I have been pleased with it.

[Runner4404spd]

just an update, i bought some new 1/2 tooling to use in my 9x20 and with the compound still attached and the QCTP on there, i am able to take 0.1" deep cuts with no problems and barely breaking a sweat. i will try and push a little harder i don't doubt that it will do 0.15 deep cuts in aluminum as well. btw i do have the 4 bolt mount clamp on my lathe.

[handlewanker]

Hi all, here's a tip you can use on any lathe for getting that finish that has no spiral tool marks.
Make up a tool like a grooving tool, having the end about 1/8" or 3mm wide.
With the usual front clearance of 3 deg but NO top rake at all.
Now hone a small radius on each corner.
The tool is presented to the work for FINISHING only and using a .005" depth of cut and a fairly coarse feed with coolant, and a speed of 50 to 80 rpm for a 1"diam.
The tool must be on centre, not above, and square to the job, and have the front face and top honed to a mirror finish.
It will cut like a scraper and burnishes the job at the same time.
If you want to produce work that has a "chrome plated finish", just drop the speed to 40 rpm, for 1" diam, use coolant and it will peal off the metal like silver paper.
The feed can be quite coarse, as it cuts on the leading edge, and just cleans up along it's cutting edge.
The important thing is to get the tool absolutely square to the job, seen by the width of the cut at .002" deep, use coolant, and keep the rpm DOWN.
I also use this method on form tools, some at least 1" wide, that are plunged straight in and at the last second the tool just scrapes the job.
Ian.