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but if it was not perfect then you would have to break out the dial indicator and start clocking.
once you know how to clock it takes 30 40 seconds for me and then it is a skill you don't have to learn
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I have a 9x20 and installed a new 6" chuck and backing plate from LMS. The first night (after mounting the backing plate) was a pain. The next da was a bit better, spent an hour or so getting it centered, or so I thought. I built a couple of parts off it, and it worked. But a few days ago I built a new latch (help from the mill as well) for my Mariner OB. After I turned the shatft, I had to drill a hole for a bolt to run through. Low and behold the hole isn't really cenetered, all that work and the chuck is off??? As I'm sitting hear thinking about the chuck center, something dawned on me. Why not chuck up a piece of stock/drill bit into the tail stock. So I did just that, 1/2" drill bit, a good straight one at that. I loosened the bolts on the backing plate of the chuck, slid the drill bit in to the chuck, all the way to the jaws of the tail stock drill chuck. I then clamped the self centering 6" lathe chuck jaws around the drill bit. Rotating it to make sure they are all in contact and tight. At this point I tightened the bolts on the backing plate. This should give me dead center of the tooling from the chuck to the tail stock, now shouldn't it. This is way to easy to do. I put my dial indicator on the out side of the chuck, man that doesn't look goo at all. Chucked up a piece of 2" round stock, set the dial indicator on it, WOW that is perfect. That was way to easy, only took a few minutes and it's set up dead center. Sure beets any vids on chuck centering that I've seen on youtube. Maybe I should do one????
but if it was not perfect then you would have to break out the dial indicator and start clocking.
once you know how to clock it takes 30 40 seconds for me and then it is a skill you don't have to learn
Please do, I cant imagine it worked. How did you verify the tailstock was centered prior?Originally Posted by scottd
Because everything I made with the stock 4" chuck was dead on. When I brough it up to the chuck I tightened it down and then clamped the chuck to the drill bit. I left the drill bit in the lathe chuck and took it out of the tail stock and moved that out of the way. I then put my dial indicator on the drill bit. It was off .0001, not to bad. But when I put the dial indicator on the top of the chuck, lets just say the outside of a chuck isn't all that. I have zero vibration, the unit runs like it has no chuck on it at all. I bought the chuck from ENCO and the backing plate from LMS, so it wasn't a package deal. I had to turn the backing plate and drill the holes to mount it to the chuck. I think it came out good, being my first time and all.
Adjusting the chuck that way will not make it clear if you have any angular error even over a very small distance.
I am curious how the runout is 6" from the chuck? 12" from the chuck?
Most tailstocks on these chinese machines are notorious for not being centered.
JTCUSTOMS
"It is only when they go wrong that machines remind you how powerful they are."
Clive James
I had assumed this was the way you did it. Glad it worked out well though I am not sure if this technique would always yield good results. Especially if you were starting from scratch with no ability to verify if the tailstock was centered first. But we all learn work arounds and like they say, there is no 1 solution. In my understanding tailstocks are aligned side to side (perpendicular to the ways) but not up and down. The up and down has no effect on a cut since the tool comes in from the side also, but it would have quite an effect on chuck centering, or so it would seem.
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