Partner 1 E Z Axis Drive Problem

[Brian L]

I can't answer your questions about releasing the brake and energizing the drives, but my CR1 assembly has been acting pretty tired, one time when I reset the machine everything sounds fine, the next it has a bad buzzing sound. Like you, I figured burnt connections, so found new replacements on Ebay. Mine has an LC1 D1810 for the larger, lower relay and the piggyback is a LA1 DN13. I found them both from an ebay seller, I think it might have been this one (bought it quite a while back and can't find the info to be sure):

Telemecanique Auxiliary Contact LA1DN13 31792 | eBay

I remember having to call them about the larger relay and he was able to get both, think I paid $60 or so for both of them brand new. I haven't gotten around to installing them, just have them on hand as back up's incase mine does fail. I did check with the local Schneider (who took over for Telemecanique) dealer and prices on the two from them were up over $300, so it was well worth searching ebay.

[sportybob]

CnPan and Brian, The CR1 "main" contactor supplies the 110 VAC to the Drive boards bridge rectifier. The CR1 AUX ( stacked) NO contact 13 - 14 supplies the 110VAC to the TB-57 ( switched 110) to the motor brake rectifier TB63 and TB64, The AUX also has a NC contact 71 -72 that supplies a circuit for the DC buss cap "bleed off" resistor.
When E-stopped the CR1 is deenergized allowing the AUX NC contacts 71 -72 to close allowing the bleed resistor a path across the DC Buss caps) When reset the path is opened and the NO contact 13 - 14 close allowing "switched" 110vac to TB-57. 71-72 open removing the bleed resistor from the circuit.
Your older machine also have the CR1B relay that pulls the drive analog from the control to the drives to ground, on rest the ground is removed and the analog goes to the drives. each axis has it's own analog signal going thru the CR1B. No analog, no drive power.( even 0V is a analog signal) Check the CR1B is not slow to respond.
I believe the CB1B and the MC2 ( flood) are the same relay, try swapping the relays, they pull out of the contact block so no wire swapping is needed

Sportybob

[chipsinpan]

Sportybob- I have tried almost everything you suggested : swapping boards , CB1B/MC2 relays swapped , new Caps .
I also had a chance to visit with ZZZZ. We think the problem is with the CR1 stacked relay .
Pretty hard to verify without buying a replacement

[atifmr]

-I have to let the machine sit with the breaker off for about 20 minutes for the Z axis to drop upon hitting the reset button. I get the normal 450 error and press ESC and then hit the reset button. Once the Z drifts down it trips out to a 409 error. I cancel that one out and try to go into HDW, MDI, or HOME and I get the 449 error.-I have to let the machine sit with the breaker off for about 20 minutes for the Z axis to drop upon hitting the reset button. I get the normal 450 error and press ESC and then hit the reset button. Once the Z drifts down it trips out to a 409 error. I cancel that one out and try to go into HDW, MDI, or HOME and I get the 449 erro_


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350-029 exam

[sportybob]

Atifmr. Your Z axis motor is not being "energized". The 449 error is a drive fault. Try swapping the X or Y axis drive into the Z axis position.

What type of machine do you have. which drive cards are in the machine.


Sportybob

[chipsinpan]

Z axis problem solved!
Thanks to Sportybob and ZZZZ , I was finally able to solve my problems with Z dropping on reset . I was also experiencing random E stops that drove me nuts trying to nail down .
Lucky for me , I have another working Partner to swap parts from .
This is what we tried :
Replaced the CR1 stacked relay . the 2 big CAPs , 24VDC power supply ,
bypassed the limit switches . swapped out several spare Z drive cards ,
swap wires from the Z card to the Y board, and we even tried wiring in a different Z axis servo motor, that we had secured to the table , ( but not installed in the column ). Every time the Z would release the brake , but fail to power up the drive for a fraction of a second . Of course this allowed gravity to drop the head a bit before the motor powered up and stopped the fall .
Then it was suggested that if we could observe the LEDs on the drive cards during the moment , the E Stop occured , we could get another clue .
Of course this only happens for a second , and as luck has it , never while you are watching it ! So I set up my trusty CAMCORDER on a tripod and focused on the edges of the 3 drive cards , and waited for the random E Stop .Upon playback , we observed the SURGE LED on the Glentec Y card flash for a second , a pause , then all 3 cards blinked in unison .
In our search for an apparent Z fault , I assumed the Y card could be used as a reference or control .
This proved to be flawed logic because the Y card was the problem all along Replacing the Y card with my spare ( a servo Dynamics ) solved ALL the issues . No more Z dropping , no more E stops . Inspection of the Y card shows a small crack in one resistor . Not yet confirmed if this is the fault , but it will be sent to a repair shop for evaluation .
Now the big question is : how does a faulty Y card influence the Z axis ?
The only theory I can offer is that a faulty Y card might divert enough power away from Z and X cards during that critical instant that the Z brake releases , and the Z card is supposed to power up .
Although this situation is not identical to other Z issues discussed here, I hope it may help someone out .
Remember that a CAMCORDER can be a very useful tool sometimes .
Have you ever tried to adjust those little pots on the card to tune following error without a helper ?
Aim your camcorder at the screen , run a cable to a small monitor in back and tune away !
Regards , Bob