Partner VI growl noise in Y rapid

[Al_The_Man]

If they were never disconnected then they should be OK.
IIRC, there is a way to confirm the correct phasing, the armature and tach connections are normally each marked + and -, so with no power on the drive, spin the motor shaft in the direction that generates an armature voltage on the terminals to match the +ve -ve sign, once you have the direction, spin in the same direction and check the + & - tach output, they should both output a voltage that corresponds to the +- marking on the drive.
Al.

[Al_The_Man]

Aparently this model doesn't work that way. Even the properly working X axis doesn't
count when you test this way. ??

Many controllers do not show the encoder position, but the position anticipated by the controller.
Al.

[RJ40]

AL,
just checked phasing the way you described. Both signs agree when turning the same direction.

[Al_The_Man]

If the + & - match the same polarity on the drive terminals then it points to the drive, if the tach is OK.
Another test is to check if there is any output when the drive thinks there is no motion.
Remove the armature leads from the drive and leave the tach connected.
Place a load such as a 60w lamp across the drive output.
With no motor movement there should be no output the lamp should be off or VERY dim. move the armature very slightly back and forth and you should see a voltage output from the drive that changes polarity every time you reverse the motor shaft. If it goes high in one direction/polarity then it would appear to be the drive.
Al.

[RJ40]

OK AL,
I think we got this going the right way.I noticed the factory had armature wires switched on a terminal strip so I got suspecious and swaped them + for - and it quit running away. I used "home hear" and entered "handwheel". The direction was reversed. So I switched arm. wires back like original and swaped tach wires. Now direction is correct but motor never stops turning.
First : I never exchanged arm. or tach wires. How would polarity change just from opening it up and cleaning it ? I scratched aligning marks on the tach plate before removing. I suppose it may be off .oo2 or .003 at the perimeter although it appears perfect. Could this be the start of the problem?
Next: How exactly do i tune this so the motor quits drifting. Currently it just turns very steady and slowly without stopping.
Thanks for all your guidance

[Al_The_Man]

Check for drift with the analogue signal disconnected, there should be a balance pot or similar description.
Adjust for zero drift.
Although if the encoder feedback is OK the controller should keep it stationary.
Al.

[RJ40]

With analogue disconnected and the input leads jumpered I backed bal. control out 1/4 turn and it stopped turning. When I reconnect the analogue signal it starts to turn again . Also as soon as I e-stop it, it turns the opposite direction but faster for 1-2 seconds till relay shuts down drives.
I think I still need an encoder ?

[Al_The_Man]

It sounds like it could be, normally the balance can be a little off and the controller will compensate via the encoder loop.
If it is not reading the encoder then it cannot correct.
Al.

[RJ40]

Encoder is on order. After downloading instructions from Glentek, your help,and one other techs input that seems the logical conclusion.
What seems illogical is that the tach swapped polarity ? That one, no one
can explain. Milltronics says I'm wrong and should switch wires back and look for something else. I may but I'm gonna do it with a new encoder.

[Jim Shaper]

You don't need the encoder. Milltronics was right. What you need to do is swap A and A Not wires on the encoder and flip it back to where the drive doesn't take off when you hit the reset button.

I had the exact same problem!

[RJ40]

Jim,
Thanks for response. I'm anxious to try your recomendation ,but I'm not following you. Could you Elaborate please.
Right now the only thing different is the tach wires are swaped from stock position. This was done because after cleaning tach and repairing a loose disc in the encoder the axis would run away the instant drives were reset. On testing ,polarity of tach and arm. they were found to be opposite ? (don't know what caused this) I put them in phase by swapping tach wires. Now it behaves normally with analogue disconnected. When analogue is connected the motor starts to turn @ about 100 "/min. I believe because
controller is looking for an encoder signal. I'm thinking when the disc broke loose it caused additional encoder damage? If I'm full of it, I don't mind you saying so. I know it makes no sense that the tach polarity swapped.
I'll welcome any help you can give me. It would be great to fix this without buying an encoder !

[Al_The_Man]

There is two loops, the inner loop which is the motor/tach loop, this has to be phased correctly first, the second or outer loop is the motor/encoder/controller loop.
Lets say you phase the inner loop OK, i.e. tach feedback, now when you connect the analogue input, the controller has control, if it commands a move or correction and the encoder feedback or direction is backwards then you will get runaway the same as when the inner loop is not phased correctly.
This is why it is important to get the inner loop correct first, then the outer loop second.
As mentioned, the encoder direction can be changed by either swapping the A & /A or the B & /B, the "/" indicates the complement signal in a differential encoder..
It is either that or leave the encoder the way it is, and change BOTH motor and tach leads, the only problem is one of these methods will produce a wrong direction, it will move + when it should be moving -, but it will not run away.
Al.