Metal Cutting Chop Saw vs Abrasive Chop Saw

[diarmaid]

Hi folks,

Im thinking that Im going to buy an abrasive chop saw, but....

Before I purchase can someone please outline for me the advantages/disadvantages of an abrasive chop saw vs a dry cut metal chop saw?

All I can see so far is that the abrasive chop saws are cheaper and the discs are much cheaper, about $5. Whereas the more expensive metal chop saw has blades costing about $100.

Even if the metal blades last longer I cant see that they would last over 20 times longer to balance out the consumable cost.

Two pics are below so you know what Im talking about.

Im also confused about the metal blade. Using a metal blade to cut metal dry doesn't seem like a good idea. I know they are carbide, but are the blades diamond tipped?

Thanks for any advice.

[paulC]

I'm no expert but here's my thoughts.
Advantages.
1. You can't use abrasive on aluminium. The carbide saw is ideal.
2. When cutting steel the chips carry away most of the heat which can be a definite advantage if you don't want heat marking of product.

Disadvantages.
1. I think you can cut much faster with the abrasive.
2. Think you could over heat the carbide to the point where the teeth fall off.

Paul

[lgalla]

I have used the cold cut and it is amazing.No sparks, cuts clean ,no filing,no burning.Much more accurate than abrasive wheels.Donot get the idea to just buy the blade.The saws are more expencive as they are geard down to 1800 rpm while a cheap chop saw is 5000rpm.Even though I have used the Makita I still don't beleive what it does.
Larry

[lgalla]

The blades are carbide.

[diarmaid]

Hmmm...thanks for the replies. that leaves me with a conundrum, because I want to do some aluminium cutting. But the blades are SO much more expensive. I dont mind the actual machine, as its about twice the cost, but that wont break the bank once its worth the extra which so far it seems it is, and its a once off.

So how long would a metal blade and an abrasive disc last?

Is there a set amount of one specific material cut into, that is used to gauge their durability.....

[diarmaid]

.....maybe I need both!

[Geof]

Hmmm...thanks for the replies. that leaves me with a conundrum, because I want to do some aluminium cutting. But the blades are SO much more expensive. I dont mind the actual machine, as its about twice the cost, but that wont break the bank once its worth the extra which so far it seems it is.

So how longe would a metal blade and an abrasive disc last?

Is there a set amount of one material cut, that is used to gauge their durability.....

Unless you really need the 14" diameter get a simple woodworking style miter saw, 10" or 12". This can take an abrasive blade for cutting steel and you can also buy what is called a 'triple chip' blade suitable for cutting non-ferrous metals and plastics.

[diarmaid]

Thanks for the advice Geof. As per usual its very useful because Im getting a miter saw, but wasn't sure about just changing the blades over and using it for metal. Was worried about the rpm, but if thats not a factor it'd be great to use it for everything.
Will the miter saw's rpm be ok with a metal cutting blade, its stated as 3,600rpm?

[Geof]

...Will the miter saw's rpm be ok with a metal cutting blade, its stated as 3,600rpm?

Not if you mean the metal cutting blade for cutting ferrous metals, i.e. steel. Use abrasive for steels and triple chip for aluminum and plastic. If you ever have a need for cutting a lot of thin wall tubing 16, 18 gauge or thinner get a friction blade and a saw with a blade speed around 5,000 or higher.

[diarmaid]

Great! That sorts that one. Something I can scratch off my list to save a bit of money is always a good thing! Also means I can afford the painfully expensive miter saw sooner. L8rs.

[One of Many]

I don't know what other equipment you have, but keep the hot saw away from anything you expect to stay precision. The grit goes everywhere once airborn.

Edit: To add a precaution of sparks in the shop, these things really do need a space of their own. I have seen rags 3-5ft away left vapored with flammables burst to a life least expected when several projects and multiple workers are in the shop at the same time. It is easy to become oblivious to what other people have going. For these reasons and the above, the hot saw was moved outside under a lean-to. Not many wanted to haul the material outside, so the constant moisture or condensation eventually killed it. Guys in the shop just adapted to the horizontal band saw.

DC

[Mcgyver]

I have used the cold cut and it is amazing.No sparks, cuts clean ,no filing,no burning.Much more accurate than abrasive wheels.Donot get the idea to just buy the blade.The saws are more expencive as they are geard down to 1800 rpm while a cheap chop saw is 5000rpm.Even though I have used the Makita I still don't beleive what it does.
Larry

I don't get it, with a 12" blade @ 1800 rpm that is like 4700 fpm - I thought with carbide AL topped out at just over 1000 and steel 300-400? granted technology may have changed in 25 years, but we had a carbide tipped cold saw in high school machine shop that couldn't have been doing much more than 50-60 rpm. a quick google shows rpm's around 50 like i thought - what are you buying that is going to do 1800rpm and what can you use it on?
http://www.vansantent.com/dake_coldsaw.htm

on the abrasive saws, yeah like one of many says, it's messy. the abrasive saw only gets used out doors. The blades wear fast and its engineered to become completely airborne and seek out machine ways in every corner of your shop to settle on.