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Anodizing rocks. I use a 3:1 ratio of battery acid to water - I would think a strong mixture could produce pitting as could having the parts too long in the anodizing solution or too high power.
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So I'm make some aluminum shift knobs that I sanded using 600 grit and then finished with a scotchbrite pad. Finish came out excellent. Nice satin finish. I went ahead and clear anodized them and got some mixed results. All the parts got a little darker, which was expected. However some of the parts had what looked like was some dark pitting. It's not really that bad, but because I made them, I'm looking at these pretty closely. The anodizing worked well otherwise. Even tried a couple dye colors and worked great. Pretty simple process. What I'm thinking is that they were anodyzed too long or that I have the wrong ratio of sulfuric acid in the solution, or that I have the wrong current/voltage. Anyone have any quick things to look into? I'll try to get some pics up for everyone to see. Also, any other ways to finish the scotchbrighted aluminum other than an anodize. Would be great if there were a magic clearcoat that stuck to the aluminum. I think the anodizing is almost overkill for the shift knobs. Any thoughts/suggestions? Thanks for the help.
Rob
Anodizing rocks. I use a 3:1 ratio of battery acid to water - I would think a strong mixture could produce pitting as could having the parts too long in the anodizing solution or too high power.
I agree it is a very cool process and result. I used the same mixture ratio 3:1. Think I'll try a little less time next batch and see what happens.
I'm not sure what size parts or bath you are using but as an example, my bath is about 12 gallons and when I do a couple parts around the size of a large cigar tube, I let it run for about 60 minutes. If I have a whole line of them, I let it run for about 90 minutes. I am using one of those large car battery/chargers 2/20/40/55 Amp I believe and have it at the 20 amp setting. Check out the forums at http://www.caswellplating.com/ there is a wealth of information there.
I don't know how you get away with using a car battery and not being able to control your amps.Originally Posted by mrcodewiz
I offer anodizing services and I am located in TAMPA,FLORIDA
pm or email me
gcp166872@hotmail.com
How hard is it really for somebody to do Anodizing in their garage? If you mix up a solution for say "blue" color, do you have to trash it after a certain amount of time? I like the caswell kit. I might be relocating due to day job, and the city im moving to does not have any anodizing shops for my race car parts home business.
"We can't solve problems by using the same kind of thinking we used when we created them", Albert Einstein Thinking outside the box 24/7........
Getting set up small scale isn't hard.
Chemicals will be fine to reuse, you will not have to trash them after each run, just make sure they are stored properly. Caswell is good for chemicals, I personally wouldn't not recommend their kit, too small.
To just get color in your part it is fairly easy. Now there is a world of information on anodizing required for aerospace and military application that are a lot more advanced.
Anodizing is very cool because you can do it on a basic level (decorative) to more of a controlled finish in hard anodizing.
Also, remember that the bigger your part the more amps you are going to need.
I just bought a lab grade variable regulated linear DC power supply from Mastech, Model number HY3020D. Variable from 0-30V and 0-20A.
Do you think its enough to do a piece of aluminum 1-1/2" x 24" long in a properly sized
container?
Lets say 30"L x 12"W x 12"D?
I used this link to find my surface area Caswell Inc - Calculating Surface Areas
Length (l):24
Width (w):1.5
Height (h):1.5
Answer: 148.5
Then used this link to find my Amp requirements Electroplating Current Requirement Calculator - Caswell Inc.
Type of Plating: Anodizing Aluminum
Square Inches of Part: 150
Answer: 6 Amps
The formulas help with the part but, Does the container size effect anything?
Thanks for any input.
Mike
Hi Diabolical.
Using Caswell's LCD system I've been succesfully anodising parts in my home workshop with repeatable results for the past 3yrs.
I have the exact same power supply & it should be more than OK for your requirements.
I've never had problems due to the size of the bath as my baths are dictated by the size of my parts & my ability to successfully anodise those parts is down to how many amps that power supply can maintain.
Just don't throw them in a 200gall tub 5' away from your 3"X3" anode :-)
It really is easy, just stick to the rules & you won't go far wrong. I found that a little experimentation was usefull just to see what effect varying from those rules produced.
You will find Caswell's finishing forum very helpfull in solving any problems or even just holding your hand untill you get those first few parts successfully done.
Happy new year.
Thank you Babba,
Do you the lead anode or Aluminum?
I have seen people use 6061 for the anode.
When I bought the deluxe kit from Caswell it came with a couple of strips of lead for the anode.
I was using a crappy Astron VS 25 (I think) and it kept cutting out.
Found the board was bad so I resorted to a battery charger to finish the project.
I was not impressed.
Additionally, One of my heaters blew up in the sealing tank!
I think the rubber suckers that stick to the side of the tank came loose and it surfaced.
There was a fire.. I used baking soda to put it out.
So, I am looking into alternative sources for new heaters.
Other tank heaters I have tried are for aquarium tanks..
They just dont do well..
I am revamping everything one piece at a time.
Any help would be very welcome.
Mike
I noticed your tank sizes. Due to heat losses I like to run narrow opening but deep tanks.
Also, if you are serioud about heaters I have a few industrial grade process technology heaters that are about 6 months old. Can be used with a heating control or plugged directly into 120volt outlet as it is wired now.
Also, regarding the cathodes I perfer to run 6063 due to the high aluminum content next closes to 2024. 6061 is popular and easy to find but contains out elements.
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