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#1
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I have been trying to find a self centring fixture for my cnc router. Basically, I want all material to be clamped in the center of both the x and y axis simultaneously and it must be repeatable no matter the size of the piece. My table has a cut area of 24 x 36. My material is wooden cabinet doors and drawer fronts. This doesn't necessarily have to be a clamp or vice thing (though it would be nice), but I am more interrested in the repeatable positioning capabilities Accuracy needs to be +/- .03 inches or better. Does anyone have any ideas on where to buy this or how to design this. Was thinking some type of rack and pinion but concerned about dust. Could it be made with some sort of stepper setup and adjusted / jogged via software (turbocnc) by using a threaded rod with right hand threads on one end and left hand threads on another? My doors are only 3/4" thick so low profile would be nice. The idea is to home the router to center of the table, have the self centering table and engrave designs onto the cabinet doors, repeat. Thank you Hack
__________________ Check out what I am working on at www.routerbitz.com! |
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#2
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| Thats a tall order (when you say any size). what are your working dimensions? if your talking about 24 x 36 down to say 1 x 1 your going to have to make something yourself (probably). There arn't any GOOD fixtures that can span that range but Hey I work with metals not wood so I could be wrong.
__________________ thanks Michael T. "If you don't stand for something, chances are, you'll fall for anything!" |
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#3
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| I was wondering why you don't use a alignment pin at the bottom left and then do a offset at half of the material. If the door is 12" on the x and 20" on the y, then center will be 6 and 10...I probably don't understand the question. Chuck
__________________ Aspire, VCPro, PhotoVCarve, Cut3D, Mach3, Home built CnC. |
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#5
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| Why can't you reference from the corner, 0,0 for example. That's how most commercial routers in commercial shops work.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#6
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| His problem is the many different sizes of both drawer fronts as well as door sizes within a set of kitchen cabinets. If he uses one corner he has to write an offset for each piece that is different in size. With a known center, he can do the work from that location without having to , measure, jog or do offsets. The rack system doesn't sound too bad. Let us know how this goes. Mike
__________________ No greater love can a man have than this, that he give his life for a friend. |
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#7
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| Sorry, I missed the part about the engraving. Do you really need an accuracy of 1/32" for an engraving? Why not lay out a grid on the table to line up the doors, maybe get some stick on tape measures for the dimensions.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#8
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The problem is definitely the fact that a person would have several different sizes to contend with. Normally from 6" x 12" to a full 24" x 36". There are times when doors and drawer fronts are bigger and smaller, but that is rare. And in those instances, one could deal with them in other ways. Alot of the European Style cabinets only use a 1/8" reveal between the doors. With that tight of reveal and doors so close to each other, I think a good eyes would notice much more than a 1/32" variance. Thus the accuracy. jderou I was origionally thinking a gear racked system, but have not found one to buy or build. Pics would be great - Either post them here or send to junkmailacct@sbcglobal.net. This is a highspeed connection, so don't worry to much about file size. The grid on the table idea sounds ok, but it is up to the operator to assure that everything is square and perfect. Which is fine, but really isn't much faster than just relocating the machine zero based on part size. Thanks all, please keep the ideas coming.
__________________ Check out what I am working on at www.routerbitz.com! |
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#9
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| I dont really get why you cant have zero zero at front left? just have a stop there so you push it all the way down and all the way left and you have a zero, program it accordingly. Thats exaclty how I have done most of mine, set screw in the middle of the vice jaw zero'd on both sides of it and the back of the jaw. Jon
__________________ CNC Mini Lathe Plans and Rotary Table kits: http://jfettigmachines.com |
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#10
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| Not knowing anything about cabinetry I'll assume that most doors and drawer faces are made with standard sizes in mine. Why not create a set of Dies that nest in each other. Have the first die/jig pocketed to fit your largest door in the center of it and clamp or use pins to hold it in the center of your table. Then you can just drop door panel into it and it's centered. Next pocket the next door size down into another die/jig that is cut to the size and fits in your first die/jig. Continue on down until you have a set of jigs that hold each of your doors and drawer faces. Kinda like those Russian nesting dolls. I can draw a picture if my explaination doesn't make any sense. Hopefully I didn't misunderstand the question.
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#11
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| You can also have a ballscrew/acme screw driven system. You would have to screws, one right hand thread, one left hand. Attach them in the center (maybe with a gearbox between them to attach crank/motor), mount some sort of linear guide for the nuts, attach stops to the nuts. Here is a drawing of a simple gear rack system. The pinion would be stationary (pinned at center). |
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#12
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__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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