https://www.alpha-tools.com/pages/Pr...?PageCode=420#
this link shows a contour blade cutting a sink hole.
as you can see {I hope) blade is contoured for cutting curves.
Ill look for more info.
https://www.alpha-tools.com/pages/Pr...?PageCode=420#
this link shows a contour blade cutting a sink hole.
as you can see {I hope) blade is contoured for cutting curves.
Ill look for more info.
You can run the blade down straight it just makes a harder load on tool from cutting excessive material.
If your radius is tighter than the blade contour you move the front of the blade inside the radius and swarf cut the back.
this is a hand tool for doing contour cutouts
This guy sells 3 or 4 machines to do kitchen cutouts.
just watch some sinkmate videos you will see this is a long hard process.
i can freehand grind that oval sink out in about 3 min.
problem is nobody wants to stand there all day doing this job.
Here is a 50k slow solution
Yeah, that job would suck.i can freehand grind that oval sink out in about 3 min.
problem is nobody wants to stand there all day doing this job.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Does anyone make a 10,000 rpm 90 degree spindle motor??? bedsides Makita lol
No. What you want is a 90° gearbox. In the CNC world, they're known as aggregates, and normally mount in an ATC spindle.
code H6314H0394 (ISO 30)
Get your wallet out.
And your Makita is not considered a "spindle".
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Ok, you're looking at using a cutting blade and not a cutting bit?
I think there could be some better ways to go about this as far as building a machine go.
How about a rotating gantry driven by rack and pinion?
Four point contact bearings for greater accuracy | Kaydon Bearings white papers
So, if you were using a bit instead of a curved blade to make simple angled circular cuts like in the video, you could have a rotating gantry, align the hole center with the gantry center (could have a simple laser pointer for this), then you could adjust the angle of the spindle via a simple rotation of the spindle (or the entire Z axis) and clamp it down via bolts with handles on them for easy adjustment. You could even have it attached with a bushing to rotate the spindle or Z axis, like changing the angle on the head of a mini mill.
Linear rails on the gantry with more bolts and handles to adjust the diameter of the hole.
Now your 5 axis machine only needs 2 axis, Z and rotation, to make holes like that, and you can make adjustments to the angle and diameter via quick turn bolts.
Or you can have another ballscrew to adjust the hole diameter for a 3 axis if you don't want to do it manually, or if you want to use a cutting tool that is curved and needs to be approached from the side of a hole that is rough cut already. Perhaps to give it a nice rounded edge.
Or you can add a moving table underneath with an additional 2 axis for 5 axis total to do multiple holes of different diameters without having to align each one, or square and rectangular holes with angled walls also. Just trying to wrap my head around how the machine would need to move. It might be easier to build it like this. I have to think the additive errors would be less.
Are all your holes circles or do you need rectangles?
Actually, I just spend a few more minutes thinking about this. The three axis should be able to do ovals, and 4 axis should be able to do rectangles with a rotating gantry as long as the cutting angle is constant. Could be a moving gantry that moves the entire rotating assembly or a table underneath.
Still trying to wrap my head around how it would move together, but there are some other options perhaps to this problem.
The one I linked to uses grease. The grease they spec is $20/ounce.
But that aggregate is made for wood.
The stone aggregates spin much slower, and have water fittings.
Spindle + aggregate alone is probably over your budget.
Gerry
UCCNC 2017 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]
Mach3 2010 Screenset
[URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]
JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
[URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Thanks, a rotating gantry will not work with a 10 ft long top
i will try to explain as clearly as possible.
1 nothing cuts granite holes faster than a diamond blade.
2 The 5th axis is not 100% necessary for cutting ovals with a contour blade but unless you run two spindles on horizontal one vertical the spindle must rotate from 0-90 degrees.
3 the 4th axis is 100% necessary for what I want to do.
4 i am not cutting holes with a .500 finger bit any holes its to slow and not needed.
5 Im working on a double spindle now since we left extrusions in the scrap pile and now it will be steel construction.
New Y axis Gantry Steel
6"x12"x62"x.375
Hiwin 25 rails
Not sure if we're talking the same language. The size of the table top doesn't matter. It's the size of the hole you want to make that is important here.
For goodness sakes, you didn't think I meant you should have a ten foot diameter bearing? LOL! How big are these holes you need to make?
You could also mount a tool like the one in the video with the curved circular blade.
no not same language lol im sorry.
Im not understanding a rotating gantry.
My original design was a rotating 4th axis and 5th axis
HI Mike. Couple things I noticed that might make your gantry a little better; Change the shoulder on pad of your top bearing rail so it is on the under side of the rail, i.e, both shoulders facing toward the middle of the gantry. Also if your tube is thick enough that you can get by without welding on the bearing rail pads I would recommend not doing it. Having the surfaces for them milled right in to the tube works better. And while its on the machine getting milled, have the machine shop drill AND tap the mount holes for the bearings. On mine I just had the machine shop drill the holes not tap them. They need to be tapped straighter than I could do by hand and I had to do a lot of extra fitting because of that.
Thank you, I was not sure about the lip on the bottom at all...you answered that:}
If its milled in tube the slot needs to be wider at the top and bottom so I can locate the rails on the inner two facing surfaces...correct?
This tube is .375 thick is it ok to mill slots? I made recess .125
Im working on the double Z axis now and I will post a pic of slots for the bearings and the rails in the Z.
It will be a little bit it has alot of parts. Im also using 25mm rails and bearings in Z and a 25mm ball screw i hope thats ok
Look at Arrow should this shoulder match the tube? Both on inside? {only one is drawn in}
Your bearing rails probably use M6 screws for mounting. The holes in the rails probably have .5mm of clearance for the screws so you can shift the rail about .25mm up or down. (I'm just guessing here so you should verify before you plan anything). Your machine shop should be able to accurately locate and machine the flat and drill the holes for your rails within those tolerances. Regardless, I would only use 1 shoulder on one rail or the other. So when you mount your rails, clamp the one rail tight to the machined shoulder and fasten it. Then move your carriage down the gantry and use it to align the other rail. If you use 2 shoulders with no slop, then it is absolutely unforgiving of any inaccuracy.
For depth on a .375 tube, .125" is plenty deep, I would go a little shallower, maybe .1" .
I was typing while you were replying:
The shoulder the arrow points to looks fine. And like I just explained, I would only use one shoulder there as well and just like you have drawn it.
The shoulder(s) I was talking about originally are the ones on your gantry tube bearing rail pads.