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  1. #201
    Member Khalid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2K986 View Post
    Recently, i started working on this project. Since that i'm complete noob in practical electronics ( graduated at Faculty of Mechanical engineering ), my question would be: Is it necessary to use all those LEDs? Can i just skip that part and jump directly on valves, and all needed resistors and capacitors?
    These LED's were just for simulation purpose but you have to make a MOSFET circuit with microcontroller to controll all that solenoid valves.

    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


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    Of course. I decided to use 80 valves ( maybe whole system will be pressurised and I'll be using nozzles instead ). Because of the financial reasons I can't use more.
    Plan is to use 10 8-bit shifters to communicate between microcontroller and valves/nozzles. Since that I ordered arduino mega ( with 54 I/O pins ) with V3 expansion board, I might be able to skip all that ( shifters ) and connect valves/nozzles directly to arduino.
    Making sketch in arduino shouldn't be a problem, but because of the lack of memory on arduino I'm gonna need some external program to send binary image through arduino to v/n. I see that it can be done in VB, and that's ( for me ) the biggest "problem" in whole project. Don't know how to do that...



  3. #203
    Member Khalid's Avatar
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    What help u need?

    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


  4. #204
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    Hi,
    I am attaching the VB6 source code and Arduino sketch for all who want to improve this program . I will request maintain my name in the 'About Box' and wherever you share keep following information in it.

    Khalid Farooq Khattak
    engr.khalid.khattak@gmail.com
    Pakistan"

    I will also request you as i have no time to work on this project and the code is not maintained in well formatted, so forgive me for this.
    You can open the project in Visual Basic 6. Keep improving the program and keep posting the updates.
    Regards

    Attached Files Attached Files
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


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    Khalid, I really appreciate your gesture and I'm sure it will help me and everybody else trying to make this project happen. Since I don't need it right away, I won't be able to upgrade it. But I have a couple of ideas of upgrading it, like maybe adding an option of real time drawing image and sending it to microcontroller.
    Currently I'm learning how to make a PCB ( analog and digital electronics books ). I don't have any problems understanding how to make all of this using protoboard, but I don't understand quite well how PCB works ( your's for example ). So once I figure that out I can move on other problems. Maybe you can suggest some literature? I like, before I start working on something, to have all of it in my head. Of course, there will be problems down the way, but surely it's easier this way.



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    So, here is the deal...
    Most of the parts are on the way ( ordered over internet ), learned how to make a pcb ( using Eagle or Express pcb ), also learned how to make a DIY pcb at home, so I don't need to pay to some company to build it for me.
    I have a couple of questions though. A friend of mine suggested to use transformer instead of transistors. Is that doable?
    Khalid, what did you use as a 32V source for a solenoid valves?
    Currently, my biggest problem are solenoid valves. They cost at least 15$ to buy, and I can't find used valves anywhere. Simply I don't have that much money to buy them, which means I have to build them on my own. It would be great if Julfi could share with us how he made his valves. I suppose it will cost much less then 15$ apiece. Besides, we can make it even better. We can add some small tubes inside a bigger tube, so the flaw can be more laminar. We can "play" with that.
    Or, maybe someone knows some site where i can buy ( used ) solenoid valves at reasonable price like Khalid did. 0.6$ apiece is a great deal!



  7. #207
    Member Khalid's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Y2K986 View Post
    So, here is the deal...
    Most of the parts are on the way ( ordered over internet ), learned how to make a pcb ( using Eagle or Express pcb ), also learned how to make a DIY pcb at home, so I don't need to pay to some company to build it for me.
    I have a couple of questions though. A friend of mine suggested to use transformer instead of transistors. Is that doable?
    Ask him how he will use transformer instead of transistors?... I had used MOSFETS instead of transistors .The MOSFET was IRL540..you can see the data sheet from the internet.
    Quote Originally Posted by Y2K986 View Post
    Khalid, what did you use as a 32V source for a solenoid valves?
    I have a computer power supply in hand , i think it was 14Amp power supply , i used it with 40 valves without any problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by Y2K986 View Post
    Currently, my biggest problem are solenoid valves. They cost at least 15$ to buy, and I can't find used valves anywhere. Simply I don't have that much money to buy them, which means I have to build them on my own. It would be great if Julfi could share with us how he made his valves. I suppose it will cost much less then 15$ apiece. Besides, we can make it even better. We can add some small tubes inside a bigger tube, so the flaw can be more laminar. We can "play" with that.
    Or, maybe someone knows some site where i can buy ( used ) solenoid valves at reasonable price like Khalid did. 0.6$ apiece is a great deal!
    My solenoid were worthless due to passing problems. Never use tubing, my bad experience with them ... Just directly attached solenoids with the reservoir. I also wish Julfi could share with us how he made his valves.

    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


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    I've been doing some brainstorming, so here is what I came up with:
    We have arduino with 5v power output. After arduino, and before pcb, we'll use 5v to 24v dc/dc transformer ( for example SUW30512C ), which gives 24v and 0.13 Amps.
    That means I can't use 74hc595 shifter. So i need some other type that can handle 24V, but acts exactly the same as 74hc595 ( because of the software code ). Any help choosing the right shifter is appreciated.
    Instead of solenoid valves I'll be using just solenoids ( some 24 vdc 100 mA solenoid ). That means I'll have to build my own system of upper tank with tubes. That's not a problem because I have an idea how to do that, but that comes after I get a " GO " from you guys on the previous idea.
    So, can this be done like this, with one transformer powering all solenoids ( 100 mA was just an example, maybe some other current can be used ) ?
    If yes, what 8 bit shifter do you guys recommend?



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    Hi, is nice to see you guys are stil working on this. Actually im working on it too, i have now 192 valves in two rows. I didnt connect them jet, hopefully it will be done by the end of next week.

    For DIY valves.. Get some coils, like ones from washing machine. get rid of the plastic around, you'll need just coils. Change the piston with a longer one, let say 15cm. This piston will be used to open the hole of the nozzle.
    Build a water tank with hight of 13cm. Drill a hole on the top and on the bottom. The piston will go through the hole. So, the coil is positioned on the top of the tank and the piston is lying verticaly in the tank with 2cm out from the tank on top. When cail is energized, it lifts the piston and the water can go out from the tank. When is not energized, the piston is lying on the bottom hole, prevent the water to be spilled. You have to build the right water tank, and find some nozzles to put them on the bottom. Remember, dont put any tube at the end of the nozzle. I think Khalid will agree with me



  10. #210
    Member Khalid's Avatar
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    Thank You Julfi for the insight, can you please post the close up pictures of your home made solenoid and tank.
    Regards

    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


  11. #211
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    I have the sketch of the tanks, the real thing is already dismounted. hope it helps. For the diameter of the nozzles and the distance beetwen them you'll have to run few tests, to see which suits for you.







    regards,
    Julfi



  12. #212
    Member Khalid's Avatar
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    Julfi so nice of you
    Quote Originally Posted by julfi View Post
    I have the sketch of the tanks, the real thing is already dismounted. hope it helps. For the diameter of the nozzles and the distance beetwen them you'll have to run few tests, to see which suits for you.
    regards,
    Julfi
    Julfi, thats very kind of you sharing your thought and actual work with us. Can you please submit the pictures closeup views of the valves and the coils you made. What material you used? how many turns of which number of wires?..What voltages you using to energize the coils. I am very thankful for sharing your work with the community.
    I am attaching the pictures of your work just to keep them secure in this forum.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lets build Computer Controlled Graphical Fountains-zg-del-raven-png   Lets build Computer Controlled Graphical Fountains-zg-del-raven2-png   Lets build Computer Controlled Graphical Fountains-soba-z-zapiralom-magn-png  
    http://free3dscans.blogspot.com/ http://my-woodcarving.blogspot.com/
    http://my-diysolarwind.blogspot.com/


  13. #213
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    No problem, thats why communities like this one are for

    Have to search if i have some photo of actual valve assembly, cause its already dismounted.

    The coils are from washing machine, where the water comes from tap to machine. The whole valve wasn't suitable, because of the type, but the coil is ok. So i went through the scrapyard and collect as many coils i could find. So the coila are already made, and are for 230VAC. The water tank is made from plexi glass, but it can offcourse be made from whatever material you want, just make sure the water wont leak.

    heres a pic of the whole valve, but i used just the coil




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    So, that simple solenoid from solenoid valves for washing machines can do the job? Are you satisfied with the speed of the response?
    This is very important because I was thinking to buy different solenoids ( read more expensive ), but if they are good enough it's great.
    I like how you did upper tank. I'll try to draw my idea in autoCAD and post it here so we can discuss it.
    One other question. Are they welded at the top? How do you replace them in case of a failure?
    Thank you Julfi for your time.



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    Reliability is a good question. In my case, as it was a prototype, i didn't give much of attention to it, but you'll have to do some thing regarding this. First of all, you have to build in the electronic. With this you get the thinking how to separate the electronic from the water. Barrier inside the tank would do the job. You have to decide how you'll store the water in the tank. One option is, that you have a water level sensor that powers on and of the water pump. In this case, you can build a spillout barrier where water can be spilled out in case of sensor failure. Second option is, that you keep constant pressure in the tank. In this case the watertank has to be fully waterproof.

    Take a valve like the one in the picture in your hand. You'll see that between the coil and the piston there is a plastic cylinder. If you stick it to the tank with the piston inside, you can fully close the tank. Let me explain again. As you noticed, with the part of the piston outside the tank, the water can cpme out. On the top of this piece of piston put that plastic part and seal it good. Then just put the cail on that cilynder. When you'll get to the valve you'll know what i mean. I suggest you build a small watertank, for e.g 20 valves. Then yust stick more tanks together, like modules. Is easier to carry around

    The speed and response was highier that i needed, so no full speed required.



  16. #216
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    Coils are glued on top, but is not necessary. Better way is, that you glue the plastic cylinder that i was talking about. In this case, coil can be easily replaced. Find one complete and take the coil off. You'll see the cylinder and you'll get the idea



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    hello engeeniers

    im new to this forum. i want to work on this project as well and i need ur helps. i want to buy a solenoid vale. exactly wich solenoid valve i have to buy to start working with?

    thank you



  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by julfi View Post
    No problem, thats why communities like this one are for

    Have to search if i have some photo of actual valve assembly, cause its already dismounted.

    The coils are from washing machine, where the water comes from tap to machine. The whole valve wasn't suitable, because of the type, but the coil is ok. So i went through the scrapyard and collect as many coils i could find. So the coila are already made, and are for 230VAC. The water tank is made from plexi glass, but it can offcourse be made from whatever material you want, just make sure the water wont leak.
    I looked for 24vdc valves but couldn't find any for less then 13$. So i must use 220vac solenoids from washing machines.

    Jalfi, can you please explain how did you connect those 230VAC solenoids? I suppose you used some optocuoplers ( something like MOC3041 ) and triaks for each of them?
    What did you use as a external power supply?

    *newdirack: If you read the whole topic you can see what solenoids were used and worked. Whatever you choose, the only difference is in electronics.



  19. #219
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    Optocoplers, yes. As external power supply i used the house power (dont know the correct name - električno omreĹľje u kući). You'll need to assure DC power too, for elektronics.



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    Latest update:
    Found some 2$ 24VDC 5W ( ~ 200mA ) solenoids and I'll be using them;
    3mm LEDs for control;
    220ohm resistors ( maybe a bit more, we'll see );
    tip122 transistors ( saw on internet that they work just fine );
    24VDC 20A transformer ( for +/- 90 solenoids );
    1N4004 diodes;



    It' just an example of a curcuit. Haven't done all 48 solenoids.



    This is how I imagined the board to look like. All suggestions are wellcome!



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