Vibratory finisher rebuild log


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Thread: Vibratory finisher rebuild log

  1. #1
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    Default Vibratory finisher rebuild log

    I have been searching for some some time for plans or ideas on a homebrew deburr tool. I had made up my mind to go with the type of unit that Unabiker detailed in his awesome build log. I began searching for parts on ebay and in the process found a large bowl type unit for a very low buy it now price. Less in fact than the short list of parts I had put together. It was a long drive to pick it up and the weather made the roads scary for pulling a trailer. The unit is made by an Austrailian company; B.V. Products. The only reason I knew it was a B.V. unit was a faint imprint left by the original decal in the paint of the base. The bowl diameter is 64 inches and the bowl height is 26 inches. The weight of the unit is guesstimated at 3 to 5 thousand pounds. The unit was forked onto the trailer when picked up. In order to get if off the trailer with my A frame gantry, I had to take off just the tub first. Next, the plate which supports the tub and also houses the motor and the eccentric weights. Last to come off was the base. The hardware is large in size and as one would expect because of the usage, the nuts and bolts were corroded and frozen. Luckily with a 6 foot cheater and some heat and 1" Harbor Freight sockets everything broke loose without breaking. It is now in pieces on the barn floor. I do not have any documentation but have talked to the support group at B.V. and they are going to send what they have on the old girl. The motor was advertised as 220VAC. The cable has Red Black White and Green conductors. I see around 3 Ohms between the red and white and the black and white. There are not any start capacitors. The motor bearings and seals need to be replaced. The springs have all taken a set and will need replacement. There are a number of broken bolts that need to be drilled and and possibly retapped. The gussets that support the tub plate from the retainer ring are almost all cracked and will need to be welded. All in all not much to the machine. There is no pump unit, timer or controller. The tub is huge, I do not think I can afford to fill the thing with anything but pea gravel without breaking the bank. Any comments, suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!

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  2. #2
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    It looks like you have your hands full. The good thing with these machines is that they all have the same basic operating principles. The wiring is not as bad as you may thing. On most of these you can wire it just about any way you want to and the only ill effect is that the motor will turn backwards, and the media in the bowl will go in a counter clockwise rotation. In your style bowl it appears that you need it to run in a clockwise rotation so the media will go up the ramp and over the screen deck. Which ever way ends up being the correct way of the motor running to get the media to run the right way you just want to make sure that the weights are positioned correctly. Remember BLT. This means that Bottom leads Top. In other words the bottom weight should be ahead of the top weight in directionality.

    No matter what type of media that you put in the bowl, just make sure that you have the bowl filled up to about 4 inches from the top. If you dont you will not get the results you are looking for. Speaking of that, what are you trying to do to the parts? Just deburr the edges?

    Any other questions that you may have please let me know.



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    Thanks for the very good information wedwards75. I am not sure what type of finish I will aspire to. I would like to nail the deburr portion, but it would also be nice to have a finish that could be anodized. Most of what I do is 6061 T6. I am astounded at the cost of media.

    The bottom weight rotates freely on the motor shaft, but is kept captive by a plate with adjustable keeper bolts to set the weight offset angle with. I guess the bottom weight finds it's place as the motor spins up. The weights are 20 pounds a piece! Would hate to see the damage if one were to come loose.

    Made good progress over the last couple of days. Was able to break the casings open for the motor/bearing housing. The HF 20 ton press got a workout. Was able to make a fixture that allowed me to get the top weight from the motor shaft. Basically, cut a 2 foot section of 8" diameter 1/4" sidewall pipe and pressed the shaft out of the weight.

    Initially, I thought the bearings were shot because of the way they seemed to swivel. Pressed them from the mountings. Then cleaned them up and pulled the numbers from them. A quick internet search suggested that they are supposed to swivel....


    "FAG special spherical roller bearings from Schaeffler Group with the specification T 41A are designed to accommodated the punishing operating conditions found in vibrating machinery and equipment. "

    There does not seem to be any excessive movement or play, they seem to be very tight. This is good because they look extremely expensive. The grease seals are shot, the numbers are legible from one of the originals and they look to be available.

    Drilled out the broken bolts from the top of the motor housing. Drilled up a size and tapped new threads. The housing seems to be really tough cast iron, broke a few endmills in the process.

    Put the basket upside down on the base ring to make it a little easier to weld the gusset cracks.

    Still not sure about the motor. I keep thinking that there is something missing. There are no brushes. The stator is attached to the motor housing. The magnets are in the armature. There is no place where a split phase switch could be hiding. There are no capacitors to assist in the initial startup.

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    Machinenewbie,

    I'm glad to see that you are making progress. I would recommend a ceramic media if you are trying to remove a medium to heavy burr. However if it is only a light burr or sharp edge a plastic with a little abrasive in it will round off the burr smooth out the finish to a pre-plate surface. you can expect to pay anywhere from .65-1.15/lb for ceramic and anywhere around 2.00 for plastic. There are a couple companies out there that make a synthetic media that is closer to 1-1.30 that will do the same as the plastic.

    Let me know if I can help in any way.



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    Default I think that may be a 3 phase motor

    For a couple of reasons...
    Like you say, there are no capacitors, it it has no brushes, and I believe you said it has permanent magnets on the rotor. The green wire is an internationsl standard for ground, and the white would have to be "neutral" if in the US, but in Australia white can be a hot wire. In fact, if you'll look here
    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-phase_electric_power
    at the bottom of the page, you'll see where the colors red,white,dark blue, black, green are used in Australia. The only thing that doesn't make sense in that case is the black, which, as strange as it seems to Americans, is the neutral. But the article mentions that neutral is not necessary in 3 phase (I've never seen it myself at all). So could your black wire actually be dark blue?
    One other thing that points to 3 phase is the BT specs. I don't know which model you have, but I checked one (but only one) of their spec sheets and it says 3 phase.
    Whats the resistance from red to black? I'm thinking 3 phase would be the same resistance between any 2 wires except green.

    Last edited by BarnettMotors; 02-27-2010 at 09:55 AM.


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    BarnettMotors,

    You are correct about the resistance reading. There is three ohms between the the black, the red and the white. There is no continuity to any of these to the green. On the B. V. website the manual for one of the new units says that it can be configured as 220 or as 3 phase. I can understand how the motor would operate in a 3 phase configuration. I do not understand how it would start in 220 mode without starter caps or a split phase setup. In the three phase operation, it would seem all is well until there is a loss of phase. I am pretty sure this will be run in three phase mode from a rotary phase converter. If I lose a phase, will there be damage to either the motor or the rotary converter?? I guess I could place a loss of phase detecter in the conrtol circuit that would shut it down if that were to happen.

    Welded the gusset cracks. I was told by a master welder that because I did not preheat the metal prior to welding, the cracks will simply move to the edge of the new welds. I will have to watch this carefully. I plan on sanding the basket and motor plate and painting it with Rustoleum.

    Been modeling the motor assembly. Using an old version of SolidWorks. Would really like to upgrade the grease seals. Getting to the point with the model to see if there is enough material to fit these in the stock housings.

    I have a motor control box from another application. I am thinking of installing some timer circuits and motor reversal capability. Reversing the motor would take advantage of the parts dam and make it easy to remove parts without fishing for them



  7. #7

    Default Re: Vibratory finisher rebuild log

    I like the applications of Vibratory finishing machines



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