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Thread: Home Brewed vibratory finisher

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckie555 View Post
    Would it be possible for you to take a close up of the finished anodized part that shows the surface finish, if convenient of course.
    Here's a shot of one of my blue parts. When the parts come out of the shaker, it is not uncommon for them to have a sort of random galvanized steel look to them. After anodizing, the surface is smooth and uniform throughout. Part of the anodizing process includes dipping the parts in an acid bath. I believe this step helps to even out the surface.





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    Unabiker,

    I think you've hit the nail on the head regarding the acid bath. I'm now wondering whether we can get away with some light vibratory deburring and then acid etch prior to anodising rather than the 24 hours of vibratory polishing that we're currently paying for. Lot's to think about. Thanks for the info.

    Cheers,

    Neil



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    I'm very familiar withe the "random galvanized steel" look. It was visible thru the anodize on the parts I did years ago. So I guess the anodizer was not etching them properly or maybe I was using more aggressive tumbler media.
    The finish on the Unabiker part is beautiful.


    Got my gas cylinders. I'll probably use the 100 gal (the small one) for my tub.





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    An easy way to cut the top off a cylinder is with a torch. It's also an easy way to blow yourself up. I'm told that the only safe way to deal with an "empty" cylinder is to remove the valve and then fill the cylinder with water. Only then can you be sure it's safe.

    From past experience, these tanks will sometines have dregs of mercapten (spelling?) in them, so do this outdoors where the stink can dissipate.

    Ken

    Kenneth Lerman
    55 Main Street
    Newtown, CT 06470


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    You shouldn't need much of a support structure around the tank, that's for sure.
    As far as a liner, I've seen some spray-on architectural coatings that might work. I think truck bed liner would end up leaving unwanted black marks on your parts.



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    The 'Paint In' lining was probably Devcon Flexane. Get it at any good industrial supply in different grades.
    Dave

    In the words of the Toolman--If you didn't make it yourself, it's not really yours!
    Remember- done beats perfect every time!!


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    The saws-all will be my weapon of choice for cutting the opening. I will be filing the cylinder w/ water before cutting.

    I think Ken is right about the dregs. I've flushed that cyl with water twice and it still stinks to high heaven.

    Thanks for the Devcon tip Dave. Man that stuff is super pricey. Then again, urethane in any form is. I priced out sheet @ Mc-carr. I may end up just gluing a bunch of rubber door matts together



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    Ted383, after you cut the tanks open, they should air out pretty quick. Otherwise you can light a torch and burn the smell out (not sure how safe it would be for your application, but so far, for me, it has worked fine. But then again, I have never worked with used tanks with god-knows-what chemical residues in them.) Be safe, and good luck!

    -Jeff


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    Oh and Unabiker, your guards look great! If I had a bike, the check would be in the mail.

    -Jeff


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    Do you have the plans for that large shaker/polisher..

    I do ceramic coating and i want to build a large polisher..

    I allready have a 55gallon plastic drum and a 55 gallon metal drum (i hope to use as a shell for the plastic drum) and a small electric motor

    Im looking for a list of materials to build the framing.. and detailed pictures of the pulleys and motor setup..

    Thanks

    Brian



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    yes i am about to start construction a a tub as well and i like your design the best.

    any info is appreciated.

    2007 Haas TMP-1 Microscribe MX-5 Mastercam X4 Mill Level 3 Surfaces,Solids Seagate 2 tb hard drive AMD 64x2 8gig ram windows ultimate 7 64bit Geoforce 8800 GTX


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    Ok I am getting my feet wet and making my own tub type vibratory tumbler, I already rolled the tub which is 32"long, 15"wide and 18"deep. I am going to be using ceramic cones or the ones that look like hounds teeth. I need to figure out what size vibrator motor to use ( looking at Mcmaster-Carr.) I think 3000rpm but am unsure of how many lbs force will be needed to get this media rolling over nicely. I want the media to roll on itself but to much force might walk the machine across the shop. Any ideas?
    I am going to use conveyor belting for the liner.



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    What happened to all the photos at the beginning of this thread, they are no longer there ????



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    Sorry for the pics going away for a while. When we moved, my hosting changed and I forgot to migrate all the pics. Here is a link to an album with all of the pics from the build, and maybe a few more: Vibratory deburring machine - Imgur
    I will put them all back in with the appropriate posts as soon as I can figure out how to edit my posts.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Unabiker View Post
    Sorry for the pics going away for a while. When we moved, my hosting changed and I forgot to migrate all the pics. Here is a link to an album with all of the pics from the build, and maybe a few more: Vibratory deburring machine - Imgur
    I will put them all back in with the appropriate posts as soon as I can figure out how to edit my posts.
    Sir Unabiker, you are a king worthy of a crown. Thank you for the pictures, could we humbly ask for a video of it in action?

    I will indeed proceed and build one exactly like yours, but I wonder, could i make the bowl larger? maybe fiberglass? I need to deburr some headers, do headers fit in yours? I'm interested in deburring whole wheels, is it possible in your drum size?

    Thanks again!



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    Default billige vinduer

    Good Job

    www.vinduer-online.dk


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    Hallo all you clever guys. i have build a vibratory machine to repolish stainless steal cutlery. I have used porcelain beads but the results is'nt good enough. I would like to start a small business repolishing cutlery. How am I going the get a more shiny surface? I know that the vibrating won't remove deep scrathes but I need to let them look almost new. i think it is the polishing medium that is the proble. i have seen that they use stinless steel ball in factories and there a some websites that sell the beads claiming to give a mirror finish. I can't afford to spend mega bucks and then it doesn't work. Do any one have some advice? Thanks
    Mary



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    Wink Steel Media

    Quote Originally Posted by teal design View Post
    Hallo all you clever guys. i have build a vibratory machine to repolish stainless steal cutlery. I have used porcelain beads but the results is'nt good enough. I would like to start a small business repolishing cutlery. How am I going the get a more shiny surface? I know that the vibrating won't remove deep scrathes but I need to let them look almost new. i think it is the polishing medium that is the proble. i have seen that they use stinless steel ball in factories and there a some websites that sell the beads claiming to give a mirror finish. I can't afford to spend mega bucks and then it doesn't work. Do any one have some advice? Thanks
    Mary
    You need to invest in vibratory finishing, yes steel media although very expensive, will create a nice shine...


    Like this...





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    Great thread, thanks Unibiker for all the info and pics. I started my own build based on yours this weekend. I'm using a horizonal air storage tank from my last shop compressor that I recently replaced with a new rotary unit. Here's my base frame minus the motor mount. For the fixed side of the tank mount I used some really stiff shock mounts.




    I turned these spring perches to fit some used Chevy valve spings, IIRC they have a ~100lb seat pressure. I may need to make some more but I'm going to start with 2 and see how that works.



    For counterweights I used some 2 1/2 X 1/2" HRS, drilled and broached for a 3/4 keyed shaft.





    The cut tank and it's bearings/shaft assembly is outside being rained on right now so I'll have to shoot some pics of that later.

    Last edited by frontrange; 07-16-2012 at 08:16 PM.


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    Got some time to do more work today.



    The drain is the pipe on the left side, I just cut a rectangular hole which I'll put a piece of perforated steel over on the inside of the tank and then welded a half a pipe under it for the discharge to a bucket with a sump pump.

    I also installed a chute on the end that folds down to unload media. Here's a pic showing the drain and the shute in the upright position.



    Cheers 8-)



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