![]() | |
| Home Page | Mark Forums Read | Today's Posts | My Replies | Classifieds | Reviews | Photo Gallery | Web Links | Share Files | Advertise With Us | Ad List |
| |||||||
| Machine Problems, Solutions , Wireless DNC, serial port Need help with your Machine or need a Machining solutions for , Serial Port, Cable problems between PC and all others DNC problems disucss them here! |
| This forum is sponsored by: |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
#1
| ||||
| ||||
Rubber machining requires a very sharp cutter, I know, but even this was not working satisfactorily in one job I took on. I was machining a lattice pattern something like a waffle iron, little squares created by machining a crisscross of channels in 2 axis. There seems to be a "skin" on the top, even though the entire part was surfaced, so this would leave a heavy attached burr to the top edge of nearly every post: too much work to remove with an exacto knife, and too interrupted to use a shaviv deburring tool on. Oh, allright, I did have to deburr one entirely by hand ![]() What I came up with was a heavy collar that was slipped over the body of the cutter, and setscrewed in position with only the exact amount of the cutter flutes exposed below, as I needed for the depth of cut. In this case I was using a 5/8 high helix 2 flute slot mill, and cutting .187" deep. The collar serves to "hold down" the top of the rubber surface so it would cut, instead of being rolled ahead of the cutter. The cutting action reduced the chips to crumb instead of flakes, but by following the cutter with a vacuum, I was able to cut without stopping. The plunge points I made beforehand without the collar on the cutter.
__________________ First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in. (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) Last edited by HuFlungDung; 06-05-2003 at 02:32 PM. |
|
#3
| ||||
| ||||
| I can tell you what not to try while machining rubber. I was trying to turn a rubber bushing down from a 2.5" OD to 2.4". The material was only deflecting and no cutting. (lots of smoke) I decided to freeze the rubber. A little while in a freezer, did no good. I filled a tank with about 2" of liquid argon, and dropped the rubber in for about 5 minutes. I fished it out with a wire, and as soon as I touched it with a leather gloove. BAM!. The rubber shattered into hundreds of pieces. Glad I had on safety glasses. Bill. |
|
#4
| ||||
| ||||
| Thanks for the warning, Bill. I was thinking about something extreme like that
__________________ First you get good, then you get fast. Then grouchiness sets in. (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
|
#5
| ||||
| ||||
HU, I've used DRY ICE before to cool down some parts made of rubber, for machining and had good luck. Also used it to tumble rubber parts in the tumbler to deburr the edges. That also works pretty good. I think liquid nitrogen or argon are, as Bill stated, way to cold. Something about stopping all the little electrons and neutrons
__________________ (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
| Sponsored Links |
|
#6
| ||||
| ||||
Mr. Science says: Dry Ice temp = -112F (-80C for my Metric Freinds )Liquid Nitrogen = -196F (-320.8C) Cold, cold, cold!
__________________ (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
|
#7
| ||||
| ||||
Years ago we had to machine a rubber component. We freezed it with liquid nitrogen and then machined it. It worked! Maybe we did something right? We did not have a explosion like wjbzone described. Very interesting..... See you guys Klox
__________________ *** KloX *** I'm lazy, I'm only "sparking" when the EDM is running.... |
|
#8
| ||||
| ||||
| Havent machined a whole lot of rubber, but U have frozen it (dry ice) and also ground it at room temperature. When the application permits, grinding works pretty well.
__________________ Wee aim to please ... You aim to ... PLEASE. |
|
#9
| |||
| |||
| I'll 2nd that about grinding it, I often have to enlarge the I.D. of cuttlass bearings that have a very soft rubber insert in them and after trying many different methods, mounting a coarse stone on a tool post grinder works like a charm, leaves no burrs at all and a very smooth finish, a little coolant keeps down on the smoke produced. |
|
#10
| ||||
| ||||
| Had to do some machining on rubber sheet (about 1/16 thick. Not having much success, I tried using a diamond bit (just like dremell sales). Used with very high RPM (10K spindle) the bit actually was grinding through the ruberr and worked great. I had some problems with the heat first but turning the coolant took care of that. If your machine doesn't have flod cooland you might want to try one of these cold air guns . They work extremely well when in need for really cold air or when coolant use is not allowed or available. They go for about $150 but are worth their weight in gold when you need one (I also machine lots of specialty plastics that might be afected by the use of coolant. Regards, Sorin |
| Sponsored Links |
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| High Performance Machining or HSM | Scott_bob | Polls | 56 | 04-27-2006 03:34 PM |
| Machining 2219-t4 aluminum | scottwally | General Metalwork Discussion | 2 | 06-18-2005 11:53 PM |
| Favorite Machining Magazine | utengineer04 | General Metalwork Discussion | 10 | 05-03-2005 04:08 PM |
| One Hit Machining | CRPDGAZ | Hard and High Speed Machining | 10 | 03-24-2004 02:52 AM |
| aluminium and steel machining | Hobbiest | General Metal Working Machines | 3 | 02-08-2004 10:59 PM |