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#13
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Yeah, with the new design I should be able to have more structural stability and versatility. The design involves a simple square frame with four holes drilled in it (I added two more bolts for stability purposes). Additionally the four holes will be countersunk, to make sure the bolt heads dont protrude frome the frame. The supporting arm will then have 4 holes drilled in it also. Four bolts with thumb-nuts will be placed through the holes attaching the frame to the supporting arm. This design allows for me to change the screen easily, and also allows for me to change the size of the screen as desired. With the previous design, I was limited to one size screen, because it had to fit into the larger frame. Now I can make the frame what ever size I want. Also these new frames are much easier to make, being that they require a 2 x 3 with a couple of miter cuts. This weekend I am going to make a new screen printer, here are the changes: 1) I will incorporate the new frame design 2) It will be a four-color screen printer, meaning there will be four supporting arms on a turn table. 3) The design will be made more stable, because the old one had some play to it. Also, I will be ordering the emulsion and ink soon. I tried for about a week to find a store that locally sold emulsion, and after checking around 6 stores, none had it. So, I guess I will have to buy it online. I will make sure I keep everyone updated with the project. |
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#14
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| Be sure to use a dual cure emulsion that will change color when exposed, it makes things alot easier. Ulano proclaim is a good choice. I use an exposure unit with 9-30w blacklight bulbs with a vacuum top made by Nu-Arc, but building one is not hard, and metal halide lights work very well.
__________________ Matthew Brus http://www.digitalmayheminc.com |
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#15
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200 is WAY too high, 110-150 at most. 200 is for very fine detail and halftones.
__________________ Matthew Brus http://www.digitalmayheminc.com |
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#16
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| The one thing that concerns me about a four screen printer is how to set registration on each screen so the image lines up perfectly as it goes around the carousel. It would not have to be off by much at any one screen to ruin the final image. |
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#17
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VERY TRUE.
__________________ Matthew Brus http://www.digitalmayheminc.com |
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#18
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| Wow, I completely forgot about this thread as the build of my Joe CNC has been taking up most of my time. I plan on getting back into screen printing once that build is finished. As for making a screen printer, my opinion on what the best design is has completely changed. If I was to build another I would use some screen printing clamps/hinges. They are springloaded and allow you to clamp the screen into them. As for the build of a screen, then you would just need to cut 4 pieces of wood with 45 degree angles and glue it up. Maybe I'll throw something together and try some prints. |
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#19
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| Multiple screens can be aligned with registration pins. Square up the frames, use a long drill bit, drill through all frames down into the table surface. Do this on at least the two front corners, maybe all four. Then insert rounded pegs (point side up) into the holes in the table. When your screen drops down to the table, the pegs will line up the frame. Brass inserts make it more fancy and precise, but cost more than a hardwood dowel and glue. Have fun! DIY-Guy "Currently using creativity to learn CNC routing." |
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