BALLSCREW ground 10/2 preloaded 100 dollar

[veteq]

Hello people,

Nice title ain`t it?
I`ve got the 3 nib screws from ebay, c3, preloaded, 10mm, 2mm lead.
Only the fixed side is machined, the other end is stil open.

Cann you guys advice me about the machining off the floating end?

I want 6mm diameter end 12mm long, what about tolerances.

Cann i go to a regular machine shop?
Do they need to make a bushing to not damage the screw?
Is it better to go to a ballscrew repair shop?
What is a normal price to machine the 3 screws?
Does anybody from the Netherlands know a ballscrew repairshop in my country?

Can i take the screw apart through just take the little screws out and remove the return tube, and then let them be machined?
How do i remove the Standand grease?

OH OH OH i`m happy.

regards,

Roy B.

And thanks again member Juzwuz.

[veteq]

Hello people,

is there nobody from the 100.000+members that cann help me?

[Jason3]

Originally Posted by veteq Hello people, Nice title ain`t it? I`ve got the 3 nib screws from ebay, c3, preloaded, 10mm, 2mm lead. Only the fixed side is machined, the other end is stil open. Cann you guys advice me about the machining off the floating end? I want 6mm diameter end 12mm long, what about tolerances. Cann i go to a regular machine shop? Do they need to make a bushing to not damage the screw? Is it better to go to a ballscrew repair shop? What is a normal price to machine the 3 screws? Does anybody from the Netherlands know a ballscrew repairshop in my country? Can i take the screw apart through just take the little screws out and remove the return tube, and then let them be machined? How do i remove the Standand grease? OH OH OH i`m happy. regards, Roy B. And thanks again member Juzwuz.

You bought those from Justin? - they look very good. He's great to deal with, I have had the pleasure too. Does this mean you'll be starting on that nice design you posted a while back?

If you aren't going to do them yourself, I would suggest a precision engineer - although it is only the floating end, they are high precision screws and it would be a shame to potentially compromise what should be an excellent machine for the sake of a bit of time or a few dollars. I would expect to see them either in an adjust-tru 5C collet chuck or indicated similarly to this article here: http://www.5bears.com/cnc16.htm - The screw should be quite hard, and should not need a bushing. If a bushing is used, a soft 5C emergency collet bored then used without altering setup would be good, though that might be overkill and could get expensive.

I would strongly suggest you don't dismantle the screw. Tape it up well and clean the thread very carefully after machining and BEFORE you take the tape off or turn the screw in the nut.

I paid NZ$110.00 (~€46,-) recently for both the fixed and floating end machining to FK12 spec on a 16 mm screw, and I thought that was reasonable. I'd guess to do 3 off floating end only should be about that amount too.

Why do you want to remove the grease? I'd just use the recommended grease as specified by the manufacturer, that should be what it was shipped with from the factory.

Do you need the floating end bearings at all? The screws are not that long, how fast are you going to spin them? I have a couple of machines with the Y and Z axis at 170 mm travel (2 mm pitch screws) with no floating end bearing and feeds of 4,000 mm/min are fine, no evidence of the screws vibrating or anything untoward. They are 16 mm dia., though - not 10 mm...

Best regards,

Jason

[veteq]

Hey Jason,

you`re right, if i think about it i don`t need a floating bearing at all.
i only spin max at 1200mm/min so around 10rps. max travel 200mm.

The designs i showed are based on other linear products, so i have to make a other design.
The problem is i`m not that good on "shooting the engineer".
The design i showed are one off the 50+ made.

I would love to make a very small mill almost compleet off E/G.

The spindle is still a problem, a nice one is so expensive.
I did some math and found a cheap brushless that has the same ratings as the NSK 125 watt series.
http://shop.maxonmotor.com/ishop/app
it`s the EC 22 (50watt cont.) abd the DEC50/5 (DRIVE)
This in combination with a NSK spindlehead.

Also thinking to use nema 17 steppers, since the price is low, mass to move is very light, small lead screws. only worry is acceleration.

Hope to complete the machine around before summer.

Studying takes a lot off time, now working on a simulation on a engine i designed.

Thanks for giving a new view about a machine concept.

Regards,

Roy B.

[veteq]

The machine you made is very nice Jason, perfect benchtop.
How about vibrations, since the machine is from alloy.
(very litlle, High rpm / little force ???)

And i think this would be a nice concept for me!!!!

table is 100/200mm

[Jason3]

Hi Roy,

That's a nice engine. You'll build it when your machine is finished?

Thank you for your comment! The little machines I build are very rigid, I haven't had any issue with vibration at all. They weigh ~65 Kg, quite heavy for a machine this size in Alu.

I hope the 50 watt Maxon has enough power for you. I have a ~150 watt Kavo 4052 (it's in a video in my smoothstepper thread, cutting acrylic), and I found it didn't really have enough torque for 1/8" cutters. The E3000 series NSK (350 watt) does, and can take up to 1/4" cutters, though above 1/8" care is required with choosing cutting strategy to avoid stalling it. I haven't tried the 125 watt NSK - the same motor used with the E3000 controller is rated 300 watts, and for only a few more $ is much better value. Some machine manufacturers use the NSK hand tool motors and controllers fitted with a machine tool spindle.

I guess you've considered using a brushless RC plane motor and controller? Easy way to get plenty of power and speed - cooling is the issue there.

Whichever motor you use, the NSK spindles have a female "+" shape coupling, so it should be a simple matter to machine a motor shaft to mate with it, and an adaptor could be made that would bolt onto the front of the motor and match the thread on the spindle. The way they're set up, direct drive is really the only option (no side access to mount a pulley, and the spindle drive end is 'floating' - it won't take any side load from memory).

Ebay auction for an 80 watt maxon motor: http://cgi.ebay.com/MAXON-80-WATT-PR...2em118Q2el1247

For what it's worth, I seldom find a need to run my spindles at less than their maximum speed in Aluminium, so I would suggest you use a motor that will be happy at 30,000 RPM +.

Have you considered something like the Jevco D80 spindle? They pop up on ebay regularly, 1 Hp, 80,000 Rpm, pneumatic tool change etc. The disadvantage is the 1/8" max. shank collet size.

Best regards,

Jason

[Jason3]

Roy, that should work. With that layout I would consider using the long type bearing blocks on the Y axis, and the wide rail type for the X and Z if you can.

Best regards,

Jason

[BillTodd]

I'm intrigued. How do you lubricate the gear while keeping oil off of the timing belt?

[veteq]

Hey Bill,

you`re right, the distribution side is just a "looker", same for the clutch.
The crank and cam shaft are connected with a gearmate in SolidWorks.
The goal is to simulate the the forces on the pistons and the max and average speed and acceleration.

Modeling the gears that a normal F1 engine has is easy, but my SW entry level workstation goes crazy when simulating. designing for strenght is a different story.

Sorry, but i can`t do it all.

Kind regards,

Roy B.

[veteq]

Hey Jason,

Love to make the engine when the mill is ready, then implemend it in the rc car.
(only problem is i can`t find a timed belt 4mm wide that cann take the torque!!!)

The 150watt for the Kavo is peak, so it is around 50 watt continues.
The NSK motor 125watt has a cont. torque till 25.000rpm at 2 Ncm, but goes till 50.000.
The maxon motor with the right turns has till 30.000 around 3 Ncm cont.

But most important, the Nsk motor costs here 950 euro and 780 for the drive (125watt, max 30krpm)
The e3000 drive is 1800 euro alone.
The Maxon setup is around 240 euro over here, nice for the student.

With rc brushless there are 2 problems in my opinion,
the shaft runout is to high and the bearings not preloaded.
The drive doesn`t has a function to keep the rpm and no good adjustments.

The maxon is preloaded and a max. runout off 0.02 mm, the drive has speed or current control.
Also a nice pot with 1024 steps.

The coupling will be a very tight pressed fit balanced ground + adapter.

When my max. feed will be around 1200mm/min the rpm can be a bit lower,
no max performance and no hurry for me, but i will have money to eat.

The strategy in cam will be important, but my nice Unit of Solidworks and Solidcam 2007 with HSM, will do,
think i will enjoy making the G-code!!!

The machine will be non commercial.

Still thinking about the spindle, maybe i buy the nr-3060s, but it is expensive.
In my configuration it will be very overdimensioned and will last.

Kind regards,

Roy B.

PS. you got a private message.

[Jason3]

Hi Roy,

That's interesting the price difference you found for the NSK parts. My catalogue has the E2550 drive (NE145, 125w) at €1072.00, and the E3000 drive (NE211, 350w) at €1271.00. I do know there was a recent price rise though (about 20%!!). Anyway, as you say - it's expensive. If you can use the Maxon to get the same result, why not.

As for the spindle, yes the NR3060S would be very nice. Just a thought though - since you are looking at max. 30,000 rpm, would the NR-H2532 with steel bearings do? It might be more forgiving than ceramic bearings, and it is significantly cheaper.

Looking forward to seeing your design!

Best regards,

jason

[veteq]

strange that difference, look here
http://www.mafra.de/produkte.php?ite...&product=ne211

The E2530
http://www.mafra.de/produkte.php?item=M012

At the NR-2532 spindle i`ve been looking for a long time, once almost bought it, it`s over 500 euro`s here.
http://www.mafra.de/produkte.php?ite...roduct=nr-2532

On ebay in this shop http://search.stores.ebay.com/OTTOMA...369436QQsofpZ0 that same spindel was sold for 475 dollar.

but now he doesn`t have them anymore and prices are at least 30% more since last week.

The NR-2532 combo with the maxon motor drive will do great for my setup, minitech minimill 3 uses the old NSK astro 250 unit with a nr-303.
that hole unit is 2250 euro`s over here.

What is the price off that spindle over there in NZ.
Strange that difference in price?!?

I think i will start a nice design log the next couple off months, been reading the zone for years know and learned a lot. Never seen a nice step by step. Also have a lot off data from the E/G from cncecke.de

regards Roy B.