![]() | |
| Home Page | Mark Forums Read | Today's Posts | My Replies | Classifieds | Reviews | Photo Gallery | Web Links | Share Files | Advertise With Us | Ad List |
| |||||||
| Linear and Rotary Motion Discuss ball/Acme screws, R&P, linear slides and theory here. |
| This forum is sponsored by: |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
#2
| ||||
| ||||
| What you need are anti-backlash nuts. An anti-backlash nut is a nut with some type if adjustment to remove any slop in the threads. There are many different types, depending on the type of screws. Ballscrews typically use 2 nuts on each screw, joined together so that they can be adjusted apart (or together) until they fit snugly on the screw with no play. The balls in a ballnut can also be replaced with larger balls, which reduce the clearances in the nut, making a tighter fit. This method will usually still have some backlash, but it will be reduced. Acme and allthread leadscrews typically use Delrin or other plastic nuts, with some adjusment built in. Here's an example of spring loaded nuts. http://gonebowlin.com/dumpsterCNC/ More examples here. Anti-backlash nut http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...tachmentid=944 http://www.cnczone.com/forums/attach...tachmentid=945 Not plastic, but here's another. http://www.buildyouridea.com/cnc/tk-...5/phase_5.html Backlash can also be compensated in the control software, but the preferable way is to remove it from the screws, if possible. Software backlash comp is not perfect. The reason is that with backlash, the tool can grab the workpiece and be pulled into it because of the play in the machine. This can cause poor finish, and broken bits if using smaller tools. To answer your question, EVERY leadscrew should have some type of antibacklash nut.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
|
#4
| |||
| |||
| If I can get some ACME to match up with 'em I'll probably just go with the Dumpsters and have it over with. At their prices I'd rather just get 'em and have it over with. I do like the BUILDYOUROWNIDEA version though. |
|
#5
| ||||
| ||||
| This is what I bought. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...7&PMT4NO=60553 Best bang for the buck I've seen.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
| Sponsored Links |
|
#6
| ||||
| ||||
| Chunky, not trying to hijack your thread (pun intended)… Have you given thought on how to mount your threaded rod? Gerry, do you have any hints on bearings and couplers that you could share? Did you turn the ends yourself or did you order them finished? I see that Keystone has a secondary operations division that seems like they will do this kind of work. Not sure how much it will charge. Maybe I should just order a mini lathe and be done with it. Steve |
|
#7
| |||
| |||
| ger21]This is what I bought. http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...7&PMT4NO=60553 Love that! What are you going to do about getting the ends machined? |
|
#8
| |||
| |||
| Chunky, not trying to hijack your thread (pun intended)…. And a fine pun indeed. Have you given thought on how to mount your threaded rod? I can't believe it. I just got through asking Ger the same question. I know one of the site that sells rolled screws does the machining. I've got them in my favorites. I'd assume you'd have to buy your rod there too though. One thing that bothers me about them is that they seem to suggest I should not worry about the thing feeling gritty. I'm new to CNC but I just ain't going for that. Gritty and friction- they just seem to go together. Might just be me. |
|
#9
| ||||
| ||||
| I've got this crazy idea - I plan on using a jig with my disc sander to get them roughly to size, and then another jig for the router table, using 1/2" ID bearings to support and rotate the screws. I bought some 1/4" shank grinding stones from Mcmaster-Carr, that I'll put in the router and hopefully be able to do a decent job. (watch the max rpm of the stones) I've read a thread or 2 here where they chucked them in a drill press, supported the other end, and sanded and filed the ends down while spinning. Same basic principle. If it doesn't work, I'll pay someone to do it.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
|
#11
| ||||
| ||||
| You can - something like this. http://www.frontiernet.net/~salterc/cnc.htm Just not the route I wanted to take.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
|
#12
| |||
| |||
| ger21]You can - something like this. http://www.frontiernet.net/~salterc/cnc.htm Just not the route I wanted to take. Only one side of the bearing is free, it is sealed and has a grease hole. Worked great. I don't know what he's saying here. Do you? |
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| how do i choose the right lead screws? | dansal | DIY-CNC Router Table Machines | 32 | 04-06-2009 04:48 AM |
| Question obout acme threaded rod (lead screws) | Hack | Mechanical Calculations/Engineering Design | 1 | 04-02-2005 01:12 PM |
| Duel Lead Screws | bb99 | Mechanical Calculations/Engineering Design | 6 | 03-18-2005 03:51 PM |
| Lead Screws | mdframe | DIY-CNC Router Table Machines | 14 | 03-21-2004 09:20 PM |
| Where to purchase lead screws? | sixpence | DIY-CNC Router Table Machines | 2 | 01-25-2004 02:18 PM |