Need Help!- I ran Bystronic exclusively now I need to switch to Mitsubishi

[javadwc]

I am fairly competent at drawing(creating) parts, nesting parts and even taught others, including division supervisors, laser operation for about 10 yrs. using Bystronic lasers and software (& some AutoCad). It offered me a lot of control in everything from part development through the actual part cutting.

The division of the company consolidated everything to their Houston area shops and it has taken a while to find a new laser job in the Midwest. But I now need to learn Mitsubishi lasers from an operator who has no desire to teach anyone anything. I think he resents his job/company and everthing else in his life. I have just started, however, other than general laser principles (which must be similar) I can see very little in common so far between the two lasers, and I see much, much less control over anything!!

Are the G codes or M codes similar. I'm afraid this idiot will quit before even having me attempt to load a program from a disk & pick parameters, etc. Where can I find Mitsubishi operational information in case I have to figure it out on my own. I used to create parts as quick & accurate as our engineers.
Now, I feel like a bigger idiot than the one "training" me, who needs to leave.

Are these lasers any good..I've heard they were, but maybe they are only good for what they cost( or maybe they cost more, I'm clueless and desperate). My Byspeed was around $690K in 2002. There have to be some excellent operators out there who would help a lost soul.

I'll take any advice right about now, even if it's wrong it might help me to think more clearly in understanding this laser. Please somebody try to answer my prayers I'm begging you. I know there are a lot of good people out there somewhere. This company hired 3 of my co-workers as well as me, so if I can see the light, it will be a homecoming of sorts

Thank you in advance for even considering having some mercy on me and my request. It is so very sincerely appreciated, almost lifesaving. I realize your time is valuable, so I really hate to ask but my family needs me to succeed.

[SkipW]

Hello,

I wish I could answer your question and help you out, but unfortunately I can't.

I tried searching for a Mitsubishi laser forum where you could get the answer you are looking for but I didn't come up with anything.

I found a couple of videos on youtube that showed Mitsubishi lasers and showed the controller screens, but not in any detail.

I've been in similar spots a couple of times over the years and I know what you are going through and the aggravation sucks.

Hopefully someone here can answer your question and will eventually see your post. My reply will bump it to the top again.

Regards,
Skip

[bklompy]

did you ever get trained on the mits
we have 2 lxp 4x8 beds 2000w
and 1 lzp 5x10 2000w
I might be able to help

[javadwc]

Well, over the past 6 months, I think I have somewhat figured out the similarities between the 2 operating systems. Overall, a laser is still a laser, and some are more competent & user-friendly than others. The mits. is not networked and runs programs loaded from floppys and you have to understand that bystronic parameters are somewhat equivalent to mits. cutting condition settings. That + common sense = parts, so far...
I did have to figure most of it out myself and have since trained 2 other former co-workers on the laser, one gave up after 3 weeks of losing confidence in the engineering, programming, laser & company in general.
We have a 2000w lzp with 5x10 beds and so far I only have a basic understanding of it's capabilities, unless it is only capable of basic simple operation. I am not very satisfied with the multiple programs as compared to part nesting capabilities.
The biggest question I have right now is whether anyone knows any tricks on cutting laser paper and/or pvc covered stainless steel, because we cut a lot of 18ga to 11ga with #4 finish or mirrored.
Thanks in advance, and for the record I prefer Bystronic, but I do like the little red LED indicator light that shines out of the beam path.

[Al_The_Man]

Did you ever go to the MEAU site or contact Mitsubishi in Chicago?
I have not contacted either for Laser, but the other CNC technologies have had very good support.
Al.

[bklompy]

Do you use the laser grade pvc film for laser cuting aka "nitto" is a brand that our steel company provides. Or are you having problems with the head getting a height control alarm constantly.
we have to hold down the alarm reset button using a mag base with a dowel pin to hold the button. Warning chiller must be clean if chiller overheats and shuts down it will not stop the laser; it will keep running till you turn resonator into fish tank.

[RED Nikolai]

I program and operate a mitz 2512HD. I've worked with mitz lasers for about 10 years now and I might be able to answer some of your questions. I don't claim to be an expert, but I know a lot of the basics. Reply if you still need help with the #4 11ga stainless.

[javadwc]

Thanks for your response. I still run the laser everyday and it cuts pretty decent and it still wouldn't be my first choice if I had to spend my own $ and purchase a laser. I've had more experience now with the internal resonater cabinet workings...TR mirrors, PR mirror (which is called an output window on a Bystronic cabinet ). disassembly/replacement of electronics including a new turbo/blower assembly. We have no service/maintenance people @ this company, so the operator/programmer is also the PM guy and the repair technician if at all possible.
As far as the laser paper covered material, I just couldn't get the paper to stay on the material. Even if I reduced power & traced the contour of the parts to clear the paper away from the actual cutting line, the instant the nitrogen pressure would increase (on my 2nd pass when I was trying to actually cut the steel) the paper (even the "Nitto" brand paper others have recommended) would blow up like a balloon and then I would get errors with the head lifting all the time.
I finally just refused to mess around with it and told them they would either let me remove the paper or PVC covering or program it for the turret press. The problem with the turret of course was the back side of the steel looked like a chicken had been ice skating on it due to all the scratches the press would leave. I would still be curious if anyone has some magic solutions or tips and tricks since I hate to leave problems unsolved.
Once again, Thank You for responding and if you can offer any advice then great. I may just keep it to myself now since they don't expect me to actually cut it with the plastic and/or paper still on it but I have plenty of PVC coated material and some "Nitto" brand material to experiment on. If I can get it to cut then I'm sure I would put it to good use when the need arises.
The tech support I have learned does make things interesting, but I would still rather be using one of the older Bystronic machines to this day than a newer Mitsubishi. Maybe I'm just comfortable with Bystronic because I learned on them, however, definitely had more control over corner speeds, acceleration, braking, accuracy and many, many other parameters than I have found on the LZP.

[javadwc]

Still can't seem to get the laser grade #4 finish plastic to stay on without it bubbling up and lifting the head/losing my cut in the process. Even the "nitto" covered material does the same. I've pretty much given up on it & they now know I will peel the plastic off whatever I cut or they can just run it on the turret press instead. It's about due to have the inside resonator mirrors cleaned now...haven't done that yet. Last time I had a service tech in he did that cleaning on his own, so I am clueless right now as to how many inside mirrors there are and where they are. Last time the cabinet was open we had to continually cycle the gas and run the laser to heat everything up inside to remove our residual moisture and maintain 100% power. The tech even rescheduled his flight for 4 hours later so we could get the laser up and running again. It wouldn't even pierce after just a couple gas cycles, so the tech wanted to make sure moisture was the only problem left after our blower motor replacement.

[javadwc]

Now I can cut "Nitto" blue laser paper stainless with very little dross issues. My biggest problem was I was using the wrong laser @ the wrong company...lol. I've switched employers to one who still uses a Mitsubishi (only 3500 watts instead of 2000 ) and the laser cuts through the stainless with the laser paper on it like it was no big deal! It must have been a height detection issue with the MPH head, because even though this has the older "Precitec" head, it never blinks an eye. Thanks everyone for the support, now if someone could just find a manufacturer in need of an experienced programmer/operator within 15 miles of Indianapolis, life would be grand....I'm commuting 100 miles a day now...ouch!