Newbie- LG900 Laser Engraver

[TheWorkshopGuy]

Hi everyone,
Well I'm a newbie almost.. I get my new machine next Friday and am really looking forward to using it.
Does anyone else on here use the Jinan G.Weike LG900 60 Watt Machine??
I also ordered an extra Laser Tube, Red Dot Pointer , Extra lenses, and CHiller for it.
If so, do you have any helpful suggestions on the initial setup of the machine? The only thing that intimidates me a little is the setting up of the beam alignment.
Are there any videos available for this that anyone knows about?
Any help or information concerning this unit from other users would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks.. in ADVANCE
David

[SkipW]

Hi David,

I don't have that model but my LC6090 from G. Weike (WK Laser) has been a good dependable machine. Going on 2 years now with the original tube, and no problems... knock on wood.

I just posted some youtube vids on this thread that shows how to do the mirror alignment Align mirrors ? It's a different machine but it's the same process.

I don't know how yours will be, but mine was aligned pretty darn close when I got it. I just had to tweak it a little.

I'm sure there must an LG900 owner here on this forum. Maybe they can fill you in on that model.

Skip

[TheWorkshopGuy]

Thank you Skip..
I'm glad to hear that you are happy with it. I had done quite a bit of research before I ordered it and feel I've made a good choice.
Do you happen to have a set of basic starting point settings for the unit for different materials?
Example 1/4" Acrylic.. Power Speed Etc. to cut it or Slate.. Power Speed to Raster it?
Thanks again for getting back with me.
David

[SkipW]

You are welcome, David. That's why were are here on this forum, to share knowledge and help when we can. Unfortunately, I don't have as much knowledge as some of the other posters but I try to help with the easy stuff to lessen the load for zax and kewlkiwi and others.

The LC model that I have is an 80w and they have a slightly different drive system than the LG models, so what works for me might not work for you. My X axis stepper has a much larger drive gear than your model.

The only advice I can give you is to use the least amount of power that will give you the results you want, and try not to use power above 90%. This will extend the life of the tube. It's really trial and error. Maybe try to raster wood at 35% to 40% power and 400 speed as a starting point and go from there. If it's too deep, speed it up. If it's not deep enough, give it more power or slow down the speed. This all depends on the type of material and the type of graphic.

For 1/4" acrylic I think I'd start at 60% power and 8 speed. If it doesn't cut all the way through, slow it down or increase the power. I'm just guessing on these numbers. Trial and error method... Oh, and if you can, leave the paper on it until it's cut.

Maybe there is a 60w owner here that will give you a better idea what to run things at.

One thing I do know for a fact, it SUCKS waiting for your new machine to arrive. ha

Skip

[TheWorkshopGuy]

Thanks again Skip,
Well I'm hoping my machine does what I want it to do. I just looked at the specs on yours and I probably could have bought it for around the same price as mine?
Being new to all of this I just did not know what the differences would really be.
I knew that I wanted at least 60watt.. My brother in law bought an Epilog 35 watt and it is sure limited as to what it can cut. I did not want that problem.
Oh well I can always upgrade to your machine if necessary, for more power.

Some things I forgot to ask and I'd like to know????
====================================
1) Does the printer driver work with CorelDraw X4?? or do I have to use CrorelDraw X3???
2) Is there anything special to know on the setup of the software and or driver?
3) Do you use PhotoGrav and if so do you find it worthwhile?

Thanks again
David

[SkipW]

Originally Posted by TheWorkshopGuy Thanks again Skip, Well I'm hoping my machine does what I want it to do. I just looked at the specs on yours and I probably could have bought it for around the same price as mine? Being new to all of this I just did not know what the differences would really be. I knew that I wanted at least 60watt.. My brother in law bought an Epilog 35 watt and it is sure limited as to what it can cut. I did not want that problem. Oh well I can always upgrade to your machine if necessary, for more power. Some things I forgot to ask and I'd like to know???? ==================================== 1) Does the printer driver work with CorelDraw X4?? or do I have to use CrorelDraw X3??? 2) Is there anything special to know on the setup of the software and or driver? 3) Do you use PhotoGrav and if so do you find it worthwhile? Thanks again David

This is just me, but I don't even use the Corel plugin. I do use Corel to design, but then "save as" Adobe Illustrator .ai and just import that into LaserCut. (Mine requires I save as .ai ver. 7) You have more control over what you want to do (with LC 5.0 anyhow).

If I was going to engrave and cut out a small wooden sign with text and a vector clip art graphic, I'd make a vector outline of the size needed, type your text and import the vector graphic and place it where you want it, save as .ai, and import the whole thing into LC, then you can assign colors (layers) if you want to and choose speed and power for each color. For instance if you want to use less power for the graphic, you would select it and click a color. That will turn the graphic lines the color selected. Select the text, choose a color, it turns the lines that color. Same with the outline. Then when you hit the print icon you will see all the colors you chose and will be able to select either cut or engrave, and power and speed for each separate color. And you can also move the colors in the list up or down to pick which order you want to have them done. Pretty neat setup, really.

There should be instructions supplied that tell you how to install the drivers and the hasp/dongle/soft dog. It's pretty straight forward. Just follow the directions. I didn't have any trouble there. If you do, this is the place to get help (hopefully)...

I have Photograv but I've found that I can't turn my power down low enough on this 80w to get a nice photo realistic image on wood. It's primarily a cutting machine not a photo engraver though. I think it would do okay on marble or granite or ceramic tile, but I haven't tried that yet. I would recommend Photograv for doing photo images.

And you will probably notice that say between o% power and 20% you won't get a beam. Mine used to kick in a 19% or 20% but as it is getting older, that has increased. That's just the nature of the glass tubes I think.

Here's a pic of my X belt drive gear on the LC model. I believe the LG's have the same size gear that is on the stepper where mine has the larger one. I'm not really sure of the reasoning behind this but it does work very well. The accuracy is incredible for cutting and engraving.

Skip

[TheWorkshopGuy]

Hi Skip,
Once again I thank you for taking the time to answer my questions. It is appreciated.
I will probably have a ton of other questions once I recieve the machine.. but for now that's all I can think of..lol
Your pic will make more sense once I see what is inside of the LG900. As of now I really have no clue?
It was interesting you said NOT to use the Laser at full power. I remember reading somewhere??? that it was best to run it at full power whenever possible.?? They had mentioned it was better for the tube??
I'm gonna listen to you.. you own one.. so that's good enough for me.
I ordered 5 Gallons of Distilled water for the chiller.. not that it's expensive or anything but they have to make it up for me. I'm not even sure how much the Chiller even holds.
I... Like you bought it as an additional option.
David

[SkipW]

That must have been on a tube manufacturers site where you read to run it at full power most of the time. To my way of thinking, that just burns up the gas faster and makes it run hotter. And I doubt any engraving you do would look very good if done at full power.

Do you know what chiller/cooler you are getting? You may want to add a little propylene glycol antifreeze to the water. I think this helps with heat transfer and helps prevent bacteria growth inside the tube. I noticed on mine before I used antifreeze, and I probably got lazy in changing the water, that the inside of one end of the tube started to get cloudy. On closer examination you could see it looked almost like a thin layer of white algae. That's the only way I know to describe it but I know it was something different. It was only on the cathode end of the tube. I started using the antifreeze and that stopped it. Just sayin'.

I know, I'm a regular chatter box today with posts here. I'm dividing up my time between the house and garage, and hiding from the wife because she has a bunch of "honey-do" projects for me. Can't do anything outside without a beekeepers hat (which I don't have) because the gnat swarms are absolutely terrible where I live.

Skip

[TheWorkshopGuy]

Hi Skip,
I'm not really sure what size or whatever the Chiller is?? It was an optional itme that I added from them.
The anti freeze additive sounds like a great idea (makes a lot of sense to me). I will do that for sure. Do you know how much you use (mix ratio) ... say per Gallon of Distilled?
That would give me somewhat of an idea as to the amount.
I'm not sure where you live but I'm about ten miles from Niagara Falls Canada.
I'll send you a PM with my Email .. which is the same for my Skype if you use it.
David

[TheWorkshopGuy]

Hi Skip,
The chiller is a: Chiller(CW5000)(Optional component)I Just looked it up.
I hope I got the right one.
Thanks

[SkipW]

Yes, the CW 5000, according to what I've found, is an actual refrigerated unit. That's what you want, and that's what I need. Did you order 2 by any chance? lol

[cicigweike]

Hi,
Our company have operation video, which is a CD and delivery along the machine
their are some videos on line:
http://u.youku.com/user_video/id_UMT..._1_page_1.html

CW3000 water circulate only, CW5000 can both water circulate and make cool,
you can consider which chiller suitable for your work from:laser power, working time and
temperature this 3 parts.
if you laser power is 80w or more, use the machine very long time a day and your studio
temperature is hot , you do need CW5000.

20-30 degree is good for laser tube, 25 degree is best.

Any question please connect the girl, who had sell you this machine. she will help you.


Cici