![]() | |
| Home Page | Mark Forums Read | Today's Posts | My Replies | Classifieds | Reviews | Photo Gallery | Web Links | Share Files | Advertise With Us | Ad List |
| |||||||
| Laser Engraving & Cutting Machines Discuss CNC Laser cutting machines here! |
| This forum is sponsored by: |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
#1
| |||
| |||
Hi - This is my one of three threads I will start after my very first attempt to laser engrave photos on wood. I'm using a JC-4040 from China with a Photoshop bmp opened in Moshidraw for the output. I set the amp meter to 0.8 and after the picture was engraved on to the wood, I ran my finger across the image and it smudged like a soft pencil drawing. Now the image is hardly recognisable and has almost disappeared. Should I have used a more powerful amp setting? Is there a chemical or something that I could have put over the engraved image to help preserve the image? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Last edited by 4040; 12-13-2011 at 09:17 PM. Reason: title missing |
|
#2
| |||
| |||
| OK I am beginning to accept that with laser engraving, there actually isn't much "engraving" going on: the black burnt mark is the actual effect... Sheesh. So now I just need to lacquer the end product. Brushing over this will surely smudge it further so I am looking at some form of aerosol to keep the image intact. Are there any brand/supplier recommendations? Am I going down the right path? |
|
#3
| |||
| |||
| hi there, first of all the moshidraw is the worst software what exist. I did change over after 6month testing all variations and switched over to DSP controller. Ok but now to your litle problem dependiong on the kind of wood what you are using ( soft, medium, hard) you need to set the power of at least 6 to 10 mA. the next point is that the engraving it self looks like burning thats where the most material is removed it most be blowen out and then I personaly spray a clear coat over it. see my picture from a quick test. greetings walt
|
|
#4
| |||
| |||
| Thanks Walt. I'll carry on trying to play between PSP and Moshi before considering a new DSP controller but it is interesting to see the length people will go to trying to avoid this awful app! I'm new to engraving so any more info you can give me around the spray that you use would be greatly appreciated |
|
#5
| |||
| |||
| Hi there I was there and have wasted month and lots of money where I was waiting for parts and then put them together and try to figure out how to handle this, because I did not wana go the big step, what I realy regret now. I was so good with moshi to bring it to work pretty good but allways if I wana start some seripous work it did not do it I had to start over figure out whats happen especially if I wana do multiple times the same it never worked out. the sam thing with other systems what I try. greetings walt
|
| Sponsored Links |
|
#6
| |||
| |||
| hi 4040 sorry I just though the message. no I am using a self made air assist system with a airbrush compressor (see pic) and then a hard bristel brush. to finish it off I use ether polyurethan spray or laquer spray.here are a few pict from reason engraving just write me on my PM at a542002@hotmail.com greetings walt
|
|
#7
| |||
| |||
| Fantastic clarity Walt! I'm getting there slowly- thanks for all your advice. I love your setup with the airbrush compressor - it's real cool. I'm gonna have to try to copy that! Not sure if you can upload a photo of how well your setup engraves on a dark grain wood. Would be very interested as my current wood, which I cannot change, has a noticable grain that leaves the picture looking stripey after it has been engraved. Deeper engraving via Moshi setting helps but adds time to each job. |
|
#8
| |||
| |||
| Hi 4040, here are a few more picture #1 is uba tube granit tile, #3 is dark bamboo #2 is florida mahagoni which version moshidraw you are using? the most work for moshi lasering must be done in a photeditingprogramm ( I use Phototpaint X4) in dark material you need to invert the photo after you convert it to 8 bit grey scale most important you need a slow speed ( no more then 150mm/s) and a low power setting no more then 15% in ordern to get the most detail out of it I usually let the job run twice with less power. I hope this helps greetings walt
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |