Low cost laser Engraver

[miljnor]

as stated earlier I don't think you will be able to use the USB-Parallel cable, as I don't think their software is setup for it.

you will probably have to get a pci card with a parallel port to make the software work.

[sidi_steve]

Hi Steve

You are SO CLOSE to getting this to work. You will be cutting soon.

Here is the deal as I see it.

When you open the moshi software, on the upper left there is the file tab.
When you click on file, there should be a "System Options" or "Options" that
you can click on.

This will bring up a Systems Option dialog box.

With the box open, click on the "select port" tab.

The upper most option is the key. Although it appears that there are options,
really it seems that ONLY LPT1 works. LPT1 is your systems primary parallel
printer port. LPT2 won't work and neither will com1 (serial). I checked out
the backend of their software and the output supercedes regular windows
protocol (at least in win98) and takes direct control of the lpt1 port. Kinda
weird and different than a regular printer or plotter. You NEED to have a
parallel port. So, if you don't have a parallel port, there are 2 things you
might try.

1. Go to compUSA or other and buy a parallel card. Usually they are cheap.
Follow the instructions (Generally, open box, install card, power up, install
software and restart) Now you have a parallel port. Right click on my
computer, click on hardware, click on Device manager, scroll down to "Ports
(COM & LPT) click on the "+" and be sure LPT shows up as LPT1. if you have no
LPT1, then see if you can find instructions for LPT1 assignment.

Remember, you NEED LPT to be LPT1.

Once you have LPT1, then set moshi to LPT1.

If ADDING a parallel port to your computer fails, then try buying a cheap
computer from craigslist or other used source. Mine runs on a $25 Pentium3
running windows98. They can be had cheap. If you find several, stay away from
NT as there is no USB support and you will still need USB for their dongle to
work.

Once you have functional parallel port, things should work.

I gotta run out for dinner, but I'll be back in a bit.

Good luck

Steve

[diarmaid]

Hi. This info is all really facinating, and Steve P I hope you get up and running soon. Im sure its no consolation but at least the info from your problems is and will be helping others who haven't bought yet (Me), and who look at this thread in future. Thanks.

One question. Did either of you buy specific protective goggles for using with this? If so, where did you get them. If not, what are you using, or are they needed at all. Thanks.

[smparkinson]

Hi guys,
I can't say enough about how helpful you all are with your suggestions. Having spent most of yesterday fooling around with the laser, I have neglected to take care of my household duties. I am home on a "vacation" from my work up in Vermont, which means that my wife expects me to work around the house while she is at work. If I don't take care of things around here before she gets home, she'll be hitting me with that rolling pin again.
One thing good about the domestic work. It's mindless stuff which gives me time to think about important things, like will I ever get this laser to cut? And, when I get this laser to cut, will she (the wife) make me get it out of the living room? And, will I ever be able to make a little money with this laser once I get it works?
I wanted to use this unit with my laptop, which doesn't have a parallel port. It does have a knock out cover for a slot showing a parallel port icon, however, when I removed the cover, there was no parallel port outlet. Didn't look like there was room to plug in a card/port either, but I know everything in laptop's is miniaturized, so I'm hoping I can go that route if it doesnt cost too much. I would certainly be prefer to control the laser with the laptop, but if that can't be done I guess I'll have to go the used desktop route. That is IF I can find a machine that has both parallel port for the laser AND a USB port for the software key.
Now I am starting to wonder if there would be a cost effective way of just using the mechanical components of this machine, and obtaining / installing control electronics that would be more user friendly. It would be really nice to be able to "print" directly from Corel Draw or Autocad. When I had my GCC Mercury machine, one of the features I really liked was that you could control different segments of the job by assigning them with color coded parameters. Each color could be controled by assigning specific values like speed, laser strength, PPI, etc. In effect, you could actually give your work a little bit of 3D effect. It also worked well to have the job do raster first, than cut out the rastered parts in vector mode.
Anyway, if anybody has any ideas about replacing the electronics as described above, please let me know your thoughts. I should tell you that I know next to nothing about electronics. Any electronic retrofit would have to be plug n' play with a minimum of set up. If this is possible in a cost effective way, it could open up new doors for this machine. Think in terms of buying directly from the manufacturer in China with no controm electronics installed. The price would be lower, and the electronics could be chosen by the purchaser's preference.
I really want to here from you guys on the above prospect. Is there an electronics
control package out there? Would it be inexpensive enough to make it a cost effective change? And would it be easy enough to install and matchup with a software package to make it a viable alternative to "Moshidraw" and the laser as it now exists?
I will be scouting around for the parallel port fix today, and hopefully I will be lasing by the end of the day. Again, I very much appreciate everyones support out there, and I will keep you posted as the IE300 story continues to unfold.
Thanks again for your help!
Steve (smparkinson)
smparkinson@hotmail.com

[diarmaid]

Glad to hear your still plugging away Steve, sounds like your close to getting up and running.

Re the electronics, unfortunately I cant offer any advice but what you say certainly sounds do-able to my uninitiated mind, although it may involve quite a bit of work and time. You should contact the moderator 'Al The Man'. You'll see his posts in the electronics forum threads. Maybe pm him. I dont know if he'll be any help, but he certainly gave me great advice on electronics problems before. Maybe post a new thread in that forum also and see what comes up as those guys would probably know better than any general laser people in this forum.

Have you re-evaluated your position on the RedSail 3040A laser engraver since you bought this one, or do you still think you were better off not risking it? Im wondering because any opinions either way will affect my decision on which one to go with and I have to say that your experience is chasing me away from the IE300. Thanks.

[carlnpa]

Finding a used PC with parallel port/usb to get the system going as intended makes alot of sense. It appears you are trying to work through too many variables at this point. Retrofit of electronics sounds to me like a very bad idea.
Keep posting your progress.
Carl

[smparkinson]

Hi diarmaid,
If I had known than what I know now, I think I would have gone with the Redsale 3040. Although the price is about double of the IE300, the engraving area is about 11" x 16" as opposed to the approx. 8" x 11" of the ie300. That doesn't sound like much of an area, but when you actually measure it out, it is a substantial area to work with. In retrospect, I think that there probably isn't too much difference between Hong Kong and China these days. And if I can work out a plan to take delivery personally up in Canada, there is no doubt that is the route I would take now. After all, I can require a demo of the machine and software BEFORE paying the balance due on delivery. Hindsight is always 20/20, but perhaps others will benefit from my experience.
Redsail's software, as described by them is called Easycut 2.0 and...... "The Redsail laser system is compatible with Windows-based graphic programs, such as Corel Draw, Adobe Photoshop, Adobe Illustrator, Auto CAD and etc."
I have been in contact with Leo at Redsail Canada, and he is trying to work out some sort of agreement with the company in China. What I proposed to him was that upon placing an order for the model 3040, I would pay $1000. in advance and the balance including shipping upon delivery, which I would take in person at his office in Canada. It's about a 500 mile trip each way for me when I am in Vermont, but if all else goes according to plan, I think a couple of days on the road would be well worth the effort.

I have found a download link at

http://www.esplines.com/langenu/downloads_easycut.php

I'm going to atempt a download of their English version, just to see if is more user friendy, even if it wont drive my ie300. If I can download a usably copy, I'm certainly going to see if I can get it to do anything with my laser. I'll keep you posted!
Steve
smparkinson@hotmail.com

[smparkinson]

Hi Carlnpa,
I agree with you about the retrofit of electronics in the ie300. If all else fails and it can be done cheaply, and if it is sure to work, I may consider it. If I end up getting another machine from another company, I might also try a retrofit on the ie300 just to make the two machines compatable. I have a lot of "IF's" going on right now, so I'll just have to keep working and see if I can get things going. I'll try to deal with all my "IF's" in the future if need be.
Steve
smparkinson@hotmail.com

[sidi_steve]

Hey Steve,

Here are some of my thoughts - but I just got back from a long-ish bicycle ride. I haven't refueled yet, so the thoughts are less than organized.

Motion Control from Laptop:
Many people are using laptops to control their homebrew cnc machines via a parallel port. However, many other people experience problems using a laptop for motion control. The problems are generally due to slightly lower voltages coming off of the parallel card.
I would recommend trying to find a used desktop. Since I got into the cnc (and now laser and plotter ) hobby, I have collected several cheap computers. I use my nice one in the house for design and such and then keep the rest in the garage. I have one hooked up to my little cnc mill and one hooked up to my laser. And whenever I get a new toy to play with, such as a plotter or something, I have a few extra stacked in a corner. I try to find free ones or ones for less than $20. If I don't need it, sometimes I'll make sure it's running well and resell it for more...
Anyway, a desktop with USB and parallel shouldn't be too hard to find. I wish I were local to ya, I'd give you one to play with.

Retrofitting the Electronics:
I gave considerable thought to redoing the electronics on mine. In fact, I am still considering this route.

There are 3 primary things that you have the ability to control with the IE300:
1. X and Y motion - controlled by software
2. Laser On and Off - controlled by software
3. Laser Intesity - Manually controlled

The easiest electronics swap I can think of is this - to find a flatbed style XY pen plotter. I bought one similar to the attached picture, on eBay for a dollar plus $25 shipping. The one I got can be controlled via parallel or serial connections.

You would start by making sure you could plot the way you want with it. If so, then that is a good start. The next bit would be a little tricky, but these kind of flatbed XY plotters basically use an electro magnet (much like a solenoid) for pen control. It is likely 12v DC , but I haven't checked yet. Now the laser on and off, which you already know works, is as easy to operate as pressing that button. The same 2 wires that are on the backside of that button, can be closed just as easily by use of a relay. So, if you were to go to Radio Shack and buy a relay, then you could easily turn your pen control into laser control. Make sense?

There are other plotters out there that are more readliy available, but the flatbed type are easier to modify. The others have optical paper sensors and paper-size sensors and firmware that would present a far greater challenge to hack.

Retrofitting the Electronics - cnc style:
It would also be possible to buy a 3-axis cnc control card and some steppers. Be sure that the card had at least one software controlled on-off connection.

I believe these can be found from xylotex or hobbycnc, as well as others.

With this method, 2 of the axis will be X and Y. The third axis (called Z) can actually be used to control the laser intensity knob. The on-off can control a relay which can control the laser on-off.

Control of this cnc card would require a desktop computer with a parallel port. Would also require cnc control software - like TurboCNC or Mach3. For this application, Mach3 might be better as it can do what is called constant velocity contouring - meaning that it will adust the speed of X and Y to produce a constant speed. This is important with a laser because depth of cut is affected by speed. Make sense?

Summary:

The easiest thing for now is to see if you can find a cheap parallel card for your laptop - if it cost more than you feel comfortable investing in an additional test, then put that money toward a used desktop. It will likely work better anyway for motion control.

I truly believe that this is your final hurtle between where you are now and getting your IE300 moving and cutting.

The very fact that it goes home means that it can control the motors. The fact that you have pressed the laser test button and you get a beam means that the laser works. You also have the software up and running, so you know that works.

And I can tell you that the software is effectivley hardcoded to require LPT1. So, once you get a computer with a parallel port, you should be off to the races.

The only reason to consider a switch to different electronics is if you either can't get your computer to talk to the laser or if it can't do what you want. But I think you are almost there.

Good luck

Steve

[sidi_steve]

Steve -

1 more thing -
should you choose the cnc route, you wuold also need some method of producing gcode, which is what the cnc control software requires. Basically, it is X, Y and Z data. I have used excel to make it. Once you know what flavor gCode your cnc control software likes, then it is fairly easy to make, but can present an additional hurtle. Not always plug-n-play...

[smparkinson]

Hi sidi_steve,
I wish I lived in sunny California so that I could enlist your help in person. Your depth on knowledge far exceeds mine when it comes to electronic controls. Fact is, I'm pretty much of a wysiwyg kind of guy, so I am probably better off making the best I can with what I have. But your suggestions all make a lot of sence, and I'm sure other members can benefit from them.
I'll be going back up to Vermont in another week or so, and my boss has several old computers laying around that I'm sure he would let me have if the did the job for me. In the meantime, I'll hook up to the family computer with the parellel port in back. Since it will only be for a few days, my wife can't give me too much heat about it. I'll just move things around while she's at work, and be up and running (I hope) before she gets home. In spite of the problems, I'm still very excited about getting this machine working. After all, even a laser engraver as small as this would cost several times what I've paid for this one.
Once again, I cannot express how much your encouragement and information means to me. I will keep you posted, and within the next 24 hours I hope to tell you that things are going great. Thanks again to everyone in this forum. It's great to have access to so many people with similar interests, and I hope that I will be able to provide useful information for you people out there in the near future.
Steve Parkinson
smparkinson@hotmail.com

[txcowdog]

Hey Steve,
With all the initial problems you had with broken parts, I was wondering if you had contacted InkExpress about it and what help, if any, they were in trying to help you resolve the problem with broken parts.