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#1
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I have received a request to engrave on Stainless some artwork. I have etched material which is not much more than a scratch on the surface. What they ae wanting is something like a photo engraved onto a large piece of stainless can anyone help me here. I know engraving machines are different than cutters but I was wondering if there is some similarities. Thank You |
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#3
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| On the contrary CO2 lasers are perfect for this but it depends on the laser and power. C02 lasers are RF powered if they are worth anything at all. I am very familiar with CO2 particularly Trumph which is the best on the market. I can't speak per say of the Mazaks only to say they are a bottom line laser believe it or not. They do not use good resonators. You said you are using a 1500 watt. I was used to 3000 to 4000 watt lasers and i can tell you that to draw a detailed picture doesn't take much power so i would think 1500 would be plenty but i don't know Mazak nearly as well as the Trumph. The Trumph's CO2 will draw you a picture on stainless so well you would think an artist drew it by hand and the detail is amazing but like i said we had 3000 to 4000 watt lasers. Its my guess that the higher power lasers, even though it takes relatively small power to draw pictures, do this fine detail with ease and the lower power ones will seem to struggle. I would recommend Calling your Mazak laser rep and see if they suggest if your laser is best for this or not, but just know that to say C02 lasers aren't good for this is bogus. I have been to Trumph for thier advanced training and can tell you with certinty that C02 overall is the best method available, not just with Trumph but industry wide. If you don't believe me, then find someone with a 3000 or 4000 watt Trumph relatively near you, this shouldn't be hard to do since Trumph is #1 on the market, and arrange a visit for them to show you what it will do. You WILL be impressed and never doubt C02 again. Good Luck and i hope your Mazak ends up doing the trick. |
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#4
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| Hi there I am wondering what cut condition you use to do your etch I use: % O120 G87 M32 M20 M22 G82 P440 Q300 R38 F75.00 G88 M57 P50 G87 P0 G04 X0.0 M99 % The etch is a little deeper than a scratch as you can not use a file to get it off with applying light pressure, but I use this on hpro steel. I know it is a one off part for a customer but I have been wondering myself if you could use a program like PhotoVCarve to produce the code. |
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#6
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| I suppose my real question on this issue is not whether my Mazak is capable, but has anyone actually done this. I found out that the image that the customer was wanting me to duplicate the style of was actually an acid etch. I am still wanting to figure this out. I assume that the lower wattage machines that do this have software that is propreitary to that machine and spits out code to the machine. I see people at fairs and in the mall etching tiles, wood, and metal with a family photo,a signature, or a picture of a pet and would like to play or I mean try this, if nothing else just to say I have. What I need is a way to get an image proven and in a .DWG or .DXF format that I can work with. I have etched names, part numbers etc... but nothing with shading. For those who care here is my etch condition. G82P1200Q200R8F200 G88P10M58 G87P0 M32 M20 M99 I use this one as my generic etch at standard focus. I have dropped the focus to -.12 and manually slowed the feed rate down to 30% to deepen the etch on stainless and it looks great. Thank You to those that have offered help here! |
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#11
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| Use nitrogen and I would bring up the duty and power for deeper etching on SS and Steel. Using Nitrogen leaves a clean etch with no blackening and keeps the etch consistent. If you cant get nitrogen use air. Oxygen leaves nastiness that requires a second op to clean out. |
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#12
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Hi friends, Thanks for sharing such a good information which is really helpful to me. I am new to the forum and i am glad to be here. Thanks msds authoring services |
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