Hand Wheel / Motor Damper

[ZigMan]

I got real tired of trying to turn the motors manually by gripping on the love-joys. I saw the posts on dampers so decided to put a little twist on it. Here is what the final product looks like and it works real well. Most of the time I only need to make short movement to align the bit so I didn't want to put a handle on it because it would be in the way an I know I would run into it. The nuts are drilled out 3/4 of the way for the shaft. I have used some 1/2" UHMW plastic that I had leftover and it was cut using a 1/8" 2 flute end mill. I don't know if it's the material or the bit but it left tons of bur on the top side that had to be hand cleaned. I know that the table saw carbide blade and a regular 1/2" router bit work ok with this stuff and was wondering if some other 1/8" bits would do a cleaner job (have not tried a single flute for plastic).

[bradtal]

Zigman-

Way cool! Way to kill 2 birds with one stone. Make's sense to "dial" the bit to where you want and then zero out your x, y, z.

Have you noticed an improvement on drive speed after adding the dampeners?

Also, do you have the dxf file you used to generate the profile? Did you manufacture the slugs or did you buy them?

Thanks for sharing. Great job...

Brad

[joecnc2006]

On all plastics i use a 0 (zero) Flute Bit, it helps eliminate the build up on the bit which will mar-up the material.

What did you use for the weights?

Here is one i was experimenting with in acrylic, cut in such a way that i can drill and tap for a setscrew to attach to the motor without any further modifications. Using the 1/4" screws i will increase the total dia. by 1/4" I think.

Joe

[ZigMan]

The motors do run better with these dampers attached.

I've used a 1/2" dia steel rod to cut the weights from but I think that there must be some fishing weights out there that could work even better since they're heavier. One thing that I would like to change is to replace the long nut with a long thick bushing but I was not able to find it anywhere, I guess most of them are already turned on the part or custom made.

Here's the DXF file of it.

[ZigMan]

Originally Posted by joecnc2006 On all plastics i use a 0 (zero) Flute Bit, it helps eliminate the build up on the bit which will mar-up the material. Here is one i was experimenting with in acrylic, cut in such a way that i can drill and tap for a setscrew to attach to the motor without any further modifications. Using the 1/4" screws i will increase the total dia. by 1/4" I think. Joe

Have you ever try to cut the UHMW stuff. An aircraft mechanic told me they used to cut it real slow but I can't slow a router to a crawl.

You must have a fishing buddy working in a plastic supply warehouse or the machine shop at the airbase is still open since you can take a chunk for a test ride, nice. But I can see your reverse engineering frame of mind now. Instead from a pole, you go to the bait.
Hmmmmmm. I like it!

Take care,
G

[joecnc2006]

Originally Posted by ZigMan Have you ever try to cut the UHMW stuff. An aircraft mechanic told me they used to cut it real slow but I can't slow a router to a crawl. G

I think the keyt words are "they use to" Since then they have the new bits 0-Flute, which i use now, I have cut HDPE, UHMW, Delron and plexi with it and all work pretty well.

Next to try will be some bullet proof Plexi i got for a sample, i have a 14"x14" piece, it also has a center membrain in it which is total transparent, i can only see it on the side of the plexi, like a sandwich.

Joe

[CanSir]

Originally Posted by joecnc2006 On all plastics i use a 0 (zero) Flute Bit, it helps eliminate the build up on the bit which will mar-up the material.

Like this one?

http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/H3009

$16 from Gizzly Industrial. Is that a good price? How small of a cutting diameter do they go down to?

- Dean

[joecnc2006]

Originally Posted by CanSir Like this one? http://www.grizzly.com/outlet/H3009 $16 from Gizzly Industrial. Is that a good price? How small of a cutting diameter do they go down to? - Dean

Thats a straight bit I use Amana 0-flute up-spiral. made especialy for plastics about 40.00 or so, but well worth it, been using mine for over 6 months same bit.

joe

[ger21]

That a straight O flute, and a very good price. We use Vortex bits exclusively at work. It's $27 if you buy it direct.
http://www.vortextool.com/index.cfm?...category_id=47

An upcut spiral O flute might work a little better, as it'll help pull the chips up and out of the cut.
http://www.vortextool.com/index.cfm?...category_id=49

[ZigMan]

I still need to go get the 0 bit. On laminated plexi, there's a 1/32 or so layer that you see on the side. It is the same stuff that is used on windshields when they laminate 2 pcs. of single strenght float glass or what is on a 1/4" laminated glass. Had a glass co. for too long. It is soft stuff and it should fly right off. One thing that it will do is that it will rip and tear and if you are looking for the nice "clear edge" it's not gonna happen. Not even with the diamond wheel or any wheel or blade. I had a job for Museum of Natural Science here in H where I had to put some 45 deg miters on laminated glass and there is no way to polish it and make it look good. But it will cut and the laminations should not stick.

It might be lexan instead of plexi. If it's a 14 X 14 make a "security" clipboard out of it. Someone decides to shoot your ass, pull it out and make them sign
a form.

Originally Posted by joecnc2006 I think the keyt words are "they use to" Since then they have the new bits 0-Flute, which i use now, I have cut HDPE, UHMW, Delron and plexi with it and all work pretty well. Next to try will be some bullet proof Plexi i got for a sample, i have a 14"x14" piece, it also has a center membrain in it which is total transparent, i can only see it on the side of the plexi, like a sandwich. Joe

[ZigMan]

If it's a semi annual bit, I'm game. That would be like fishing with live shrimp from the first batch for half a season. The Vortex 0 upcut looks good as well and I will try the straight ground one. For soft plastic 1/8' will be my minimum. For anything smaller, plastic will not.

Just to rub it in. Got some brand new bushings for the hand wheels from Comanche Peak nuclear plant. Freshly turned from still active, not depleted uranium rods. Not only will the motor turn better, they'll dance in the dark.

Originally Posted by joecnc2006 Thats a straight bit I use Amana 0-flute up-spiral. made especialy for plastics about 40.00 or so, but well worth it, been using mine for over 6 months same bit. joe

[ZigMan]

I had to cut some 1/4" plexi with a 1/4"-2 flute ball mill and was wondering if there's a specific speed, step-down, and step-over setup for this bit when cutting this material. Is there a ball mill similar to what the "0" spiral looks like?
The reason I'm asking is that I need to have a radius egde