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#1
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Hey All - It took me a month but I just finished building my Joes CNC Model 2006. As a newb to CNC, I learned a lot along the way. In addition, I had an excuse to buy a bunch of new tools. ![]() Some pics... Parts from Joe ![]() Glue up begins ![]() Major assembly completed ![]() Added a base ![]() It moves! ![]() Igus ![]() Electronics board. Needs to be transplanted. ![]() T-track and spoil board. E-Stop switches need face plate. Gantry sides need to be braced. ![]() Time to start tweaking. I've already made some test cuts. Have to come up with a dust shroud very soon. Last edited by GoFaster; 02-18-2008 at 09:17 PM. Reason: Add pix |
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#5
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You did a fine job on the CNC and stand, you can always spot woodworkers by their skillfully built work. Good luck and will be watching for projects soon. Keep the good photos coming. |
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#7
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| Thanks for the compliment but I am not a woodworker by any stretch of the term I'd like to thank the members of this forum for their invaluable contributions. The info here reduced the number of build-gotchas.The assembly of Joe's kit was easy. It's essentially self jigging. My spindle came out about 2 degrees off vertical in the Y-plane because some of the holes I drilled in the backplate were off. Much hacking of the holes with an endmill got it pretty close. I will still need to true it up because I got small ridges when I surfaced the spoilboard. I'm using the Hobby CNC ( 300oz in parallel bipolar?) motors from the kit I never built on all 3 axes. I'd like to increase the accel some more but I think the X-axis stepper is at it's limits. My motor tuning parameters are 200 ipm/15 accel on XY and 160/20 on the Z. As it is, while running a test file that took 2.5 hrs, the stepper surface temps were at 184-192F. I will need to drop the current from 3A to 2.5A before they demag or the coil insulation melts. This is fun! |
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#8
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#10
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| GoFaster - Looks great! I am interrested in the pattern you drew on the paper with the pen chucked up in the router. I understand that this pattern should show you whether you are in alignment, or not - how did you generate this pattern (downloaded, scratch-built, shared G-Code?), and how close were the intersections (I could not see clearly from the pictures)... Also, I noticed the really nice limit switches you put on the table leg cross-piece - What switches are those? Have you found that they repeatably zero out in the same place? I've seen folks on this build go though the desire for a dust collector, get frustrated because they can't 'see' what the cutter is doing and eventually just take it off... Personally, I'm for an enclosure for the whole machine, with plexi windows (dulls the sound, too)... I'm interrested in how you solve this problem. Great Job! Regards, Bruce |
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#11
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| Hi Bruce - The arcs and lines were used to check X and Y for square. It came from this post http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=189 I was happy that the intersections were pretty much spot on, given the slight pen wobble in the holder. I knew that old Xmas wrapping paper would come in handy. ![]() The limit switches were originally intended for my mini-mill conversion. But they are too large to fit. I used them on the router's X and Y axes, and micro-switches on the Z. I got them from Allied Electronics, opted for the SZL-VL-B adjustable version - made tweaking really easy. https://www.alliedelec.com/Search/Se...SKU=642%2D2297 Yesterday, I hacked together a version of Buzz9075's "Yet Another Dust Collector". Between it and his air diffuser for the router exhaust, it made a big difference in the amount of debris that blasted everywhere and into the air. I'll live with it for a while to see how it works out in practice. If I am still happy with it, I will make another one out of acrylic so I can watch the cutting action ![]() ![]() Note the plastic sheeting in the background? That's my machine enclosure that I put up immediately after the first MDF test cut! ![]() |
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