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Old 09-10-2007, 10:26 PM
 
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Another Joe's 2006 Build in Ky

Only my second post, but have been lurking for quite awhile taking everything in. I started building from Joe's 2006 plans tonight.

First of all, many thanks to Phooddaniel, Joe, and everyone else for their time and effort. I followed along at www.buildyourcnc.com to get started, and I'm using that machine to make the parts for Joe's.

Glued up the Z axis tonight.

One question if anyone knows...looks like the plans call for black gas pipe on the x and y axis, but drill rod on the z. What's the reason for the drill rod? Would it be ok to use the 3/4 gas pipe on the z axis also?
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Old 09-11-2007, 06:15 AM
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Well, first off, 3/4" gas pipe has a Dia. of around 1.058" where as the 3/4" drill rod has a Dia. of .750". Might not fit inside U-bolts after bearings are put on. The smoothest surface is what your after, stainless steel 3/4" being the best I would think.

Cheers
dewalt58
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Old 09-11-2007, 07:41 AM
 
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Oh ya, I guess that would be a problem. I thought I read a post somewhere that all diameters specified were OD. Must have misunderstood. Thanks
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Old 09-11-2007, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Lucan View Post
Only my second post, but have been lurking for quite awhile taking everything in. I started building from Joe's 2006 plans tonight.

First of all, many thanks to Phooddaniel, Joe, and everyone else for their time and effort. I followed along at www.buildyourcnc.com to get started, and I'm using that machine to make the parts for Joe's.

Glued up the Z axis tonight.

One question if anyone knows...looks like the plans call for black gas pipe on the x and y axis, but drill rod on the z. What's the reason for the drill rod? Would it be ok to use the 3/4 gas pipe on the z axis also?
Personally the drill rod is nicer anyways. It comes practically flawless, it is harder and the diameter is correct for the bearing slides designed for the z axis. The only reason I really see why joe didn't use drill rod or anything like it for the x and y is because it is rather expensive. Gas pipe isn't 100% "great" but with some tlc and polishing you can get it pretty consistent; not to mention it is much of a bargain compared to any other linear slides you could pick up on ebay.
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Old 09-11-2007, 11:11 PM
 
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Well, trying to order it...looks like Enco is having problems with their site though. Keep getting...

"Internal Server Error Cannot read script output pipe."

On another note, I read that a few have upgraded the drive screws with the 1/2"-8 2 start acme. McMaster-Carr has 1/2"-8 8 start for about the same price. Fewer TPI = slower spinning steppers = better correct? Any reason not to get that instead?

Maybe a dumb question here, but I'm fairly new to all this. Regular 1/2" acme nuts will work no matter what "start" screw you have?

Only managed to get 1 Y axis horizontal rib cut tonight. Took about 2 hours to cut lol. Have to run the current machine at about 10-15ipm or it wants to vibrate itself apart. I have pretty bad bends in the lead screws (plain old threaded rod from home depot) and it's made from scrap plywood and mdf.

I really only built it to have something that moved so I could learn the inner workings of mach3, vcarve, driver board settings, etc. I figured I wouldn't care how slow it was anyway, as long as it worked. But now it just won't do...man that cnc bug bites hard. I'm loving it.
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Old 09-13-2007, 11:24 AM
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Looks good so far, that is a nice build a machine to build another...
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Old 09-13-2007, 10:11 PM
 
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Thanks Joe. I bet these build logs are getting old for you by now! Any idea how many Joe 2006 machines are out there?

Got the Y axis torsion box pieces almost done. PC blue screened cutting the last vertical rib, and just locks up randomly now. Oh well, it was kinda old anyway, just a reason to finally upgrade

Cut the Y axis bearing brackets, and got the holes drilled. Now to come up with a way to make the notches.
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Old 09-14-2007, 04:56 PM
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Lookin good lucan. Build logs never get old, every single one has a unique part to it. Many of the people that have build logs here have made their own kinds of modifications after they have the machine running or how to build it; the more documentation the better. I couldn't have gotten my machine where it is today without watching others build theirs and documenting it.
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Old 09-25-2007, 08:57 PM
 
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Making some progress on the gantry. Not as fast as I'd like, crazy week at work.

After cutting and gluing up the right side gantry pieces, I realized I forgot a tool path for the hex nut recesses. Found some 1/4" t-nuts, so hopefully that will work out ok.
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Old 09-25-2007, 09:09 PM
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You could always just drill in something a little smaller than the nut and then tap them in place, I've done it before. Should hold well.
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Old 10-01-2007, 12:26 AM
 
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Started work on the bed. I see most people call this the X axis, but I'm calling it the Y now. This seems to follow the labels in V-Carve, and Mach. The default arrow key definitions in mach also make it move in the directions you would expect.

Anyway, ran into a slight problem. I pulled the "X Axis Torsion Box Long Run Braces.dwg" into V-Carve, which had the brace split at a point that I could cut. I didn't catch the fact that the center cutouts weren't there though. I didn't notice until I already had most of the torsion box glued up.

I didn't think it would be a problem, but once the top and bottom skins are on, I'll have no way to get at the ends of the bolts that hold the end supports on to put the washers and nuts on.

At this point, I figure I can either cut access holes in the side with a jigsaw, use t-nuts on the end piece, or just bolt them on and then add the top skin with just brads and no glue in case I need to take the gantry off for some reason. Think the top skin will be strong/stable enough without glue?
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Old 10-01-2007, 12:02 PM
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It will prob. be strong enough with the bottom glued and the side pipes, which the bearings ride on anyway.

Joe
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