Another Joe's 2006 Build in Ky

[phooddaniel]

Lucan, I'm glad to see my video build log came in handy to build Joe's machine. Do you have any pics of the machine you are using? I'd love to post it to the website.

[Lucan]

I'll take some pictures this evening. Keep in mind that aesthetics was not my primary concern when building the first one.

[travisc]

Lucan,
Where in KY are you? I an in Louisville.
I plan to build a Joe's 2006, but may build a modified Jgro first.
If our shop ever slows down enough for me to use our Weeke CNC
I can build a Joe's 2006, if not I will have to build the Jgro.

[phooddaniel]

I haven't seen a CNC machine yet that has the slightest aesthetic properties.

Please give me some feedback on the aspects of the machine you have found that are issues the need improvement. You have done quite a bit of work with the machine so you may have experienced obvious properties of the machine that need improvements. What parts need to be reinforced? Are there any alignment issues? How is the mechanical drive (any binding?)?

Your Joe's build is looking great! I can't wait to see the finished product. You can't get much better than Joe's build with that impressive reinforcing.

[Lucan]

Here are the pictures.

I already had most of it together when I saw your modification about doubling up the MDF on the base, and I left it as is. That is one thing I wish I had went back to do because the weight of the gantry causes quite a bit of variations in the Z depths from the front to the back of the machine. When cutting parts for Joe's, I tried to make any toolpaths that aren't complete cutouts run along the Y axis to minimize it.

Cuts in the X and Y direction seem very accurate (tape measure accurate, haven't checked it with a caliper or anything), and I have no anti-backlash mechanism setup at all..just using the standard threaded rod from home depot.

I decided to use 1/2" though on the X and Y, and couldn't use your method of drilling through the edges since the holes would be too large, so I shifted the gantry to the front of the side walls, and mounted a block to the back with the nut in it. I lost alot of travel doing this, but I really wasn't concerned at the time since my goal was to just have something that moved so I could learn on.

If I were to do it over, I'd make the sides of the gantry like an upside down L shape, to make enough room for the lead screw bearings to hang off the back. Or maybe a bolt on extension would work. I can draw it up in sketchup if I'm not making any sense.

The aluminum angle is starting to show some signs of wear where the bearings ride too. I think I saw some steel angle at home depot or lowe's the same size that might hold up longer..not sure.

That's all I can think of that I changed or would change. I was really shocked at how accurate it cuts (excluding the Z problem I mentioned earlier, that you already solved). I threw it together with scraps of plywood, mdf, and I think even some 2X4's lol.

I lived on these forums for a few months throwing around ideas with 80/20, linear rails, just buying a commercial cnc, etc. but they all came down to a hefty investment up front for a hobby I wasn't sure I'd stick with. Then I saw your site, and realized it was possible to build something with inexpensive materials, using common tools. Well, I did use a table saw, miter saw, and drill press for alot of it, I can't imagine cutting it all by hand like you did.

Glad I did it this way too, once it was done I loaded up the roadrunner file, turned the router on and hit go, then watched with excitement as it positioned the bit....and then plunged it like 2" deep and tried to destroy itself. So glad that mach's default key for e-stop is escape

[Lucan]

Originally Posted by travisc Lucan, Where in KY are you? I an in Louisville. I plan to build a Joe's 2006, but may build a modified Jgro first. If our shop ever slows down enough for me to use our Weeke CNC I can build a Joe's 2006, if not I will have to build the Jgro.

I am in Louisville also. South end...the area where neighbors like to complain about high pitched squealing router noises coming from garages late at night lol

[Lucan]

It's alive!

I threw a short video up on youtube just jogging it around. Running at 50ipm, and it seems really smooth. I ran it at 80, and had some slight vibrations, but it wasn't bad. Got a lot of lead screw whip at 100, and it refused to move at 120 lol (had to try). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aCFxjXW0Fyg

The last pic is my attempt at a cheap way of mounting the motors, but it didn't really work as planned. It vibrates loose. Since I already had taken the motors off the old machine, I cut up a wal-mart cutting board on the table saw and tapped the ends for the mounting holes instead. It's not quite 1/2" thick, so I used #10 screws instead of 1/4" through the bearing blocks. Gave me a little extra play to position the lead screws with no binding too..bonus.

The router mount was sort of an experiment. It's MDF with 2 coats of polycrylic. I wanted to see if it would soak in and "seal it up". It hardened up really well. I didn't paint it since I'll remake it from HDPE once I get some ordered anyway.

I still haven't attached the top skin on the torsion box yet either. I'm kinda thinking about leveling the bed by taking about 1/16th inch off the top of all the ribs. Not sure about that one yet though...

Something else I was thinking about, since I forgot to cut the holes in the torsion box long runner pieces, is that the box itself will be airtight once the top is on. If I cut a few holes in the sides, inserted some pvc, tied them all to the dust collector, and drilled small holes in the top it might have enough suction to hold down 2' X 4' stock. Not sure about that either...may give a try though.

[travisc]

Good to see you got it going. I will have to come by and see it in action.
What is the dimensions of your sheet goods that you will be able to cut.
I have a modified Joe 2006 drawn up in autocad and would like to get it cut out, I can not cut it here at work, so I may get you to cut my parts out for me. I can supply the MDF and the vcarve files.

[Lucan]

Just finished my first test piece on the new machine.

Sorry for the shaky camera work...using a little handheld deal.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWu_E1Ceb0s


Travisc, 24" X 48" is roughly the cutting area. Home depot on Preston sells 1/4", 1/2" and 3/4" MDF precut to that size. Not sure if I can cut the parts for you though, I think I saw a post where Joe mentioned he didn't want people cutting parts for others. Not sure though, have to search for it. Did you get my PM?

[phooddaniel]

Nice piece Lucan. Where did you get that skinny bit. Is that a router bit, or a rotozip bit? I have a bit like that but I feared that it would snap under the load.

[Lucan]

Yes, it's a 1/8" rotozip bit stuck in a 1/4-1/8 adapter. First time I used it. It did flex a little, especially toward the end when it was doing the profile cutout. Alot of mdf dust trapped in there. I slowed it down a bit for that part, but it never broke. I think there's room to raise the bit a little higher in the adapter. Should be fine after that.

[bp092]

I wouldn't use those bits. I saw it flexing and cringed. In MDF buy only solid carbide cutters, upshears/downshears, compression spirals if you ever do anything that is going to make you some cash. With MDF I usually cut it with either a 1/4" or 3/8" whiteside solid carbide upspiral. I'm suprised it didn't break. Anyhow, I would be a little hesitant to run a bit that long that narrow in diameter. Longest 1/8" bit I have has a 1/2" overall cutting depth. Nice sign though.