Anyone tested milling soft aluminium with Joes CNC?

[joecnc2006]

Originally Posted by foam27 Hitachi M12VC router, 24,000 RPM, 1/4" triple flute flat endmill, 80 IPM. Trapaezodial belt driven X axis no less.... No problem...

Good info. on the Hitachi router. it seems to be a good cheap alternative to the PC for the hobbiest.

What was your depth per pass?

Thanks, Joe

[foam27]

Joe,

I always seem to forget some tidbit of info that completes the equation

I believe my depth was around .01-.015 on that one.

[silver4dracs]

I just ran Joe's machine at 35ipm 24000RPM at .01 per pass and no problem. Cut file took 2 hours to cut. I broke a bit running at .06 per pass and 15000 rpm, the bit completely gummed up and broke.

[joecnc2006]

Originally Posted by silver4dracs I just ran Joe's machine at 35ipm 24000RPM at .01 per pass and no problem. Cut file took 2 hours to cut. I broke a bit running at .06 per pass and 15000 rpm, the bit completely gummed up and broke.

Any picture of cut piece?

i take it that the material used or bit was the cause of bit breakage? I know cheap bits will break with ease.

maybe list material (grade) and bit used, and aplication.

Joe

[darkfred]

The onsrud catalog includes formulas for setting machine speed and pass depth for each bit. The parameters given look to be well within the range of joe's machine and the hitachi router.
Soft aluminum may need some lubrication to avoid welding to the bit if it doesn't get ejected by the previous twist. Other forums have recommended an occasional spritz of wd-40.

However, I have been doing some research on this topic. I think the ideal metal for joes machine would be ZA-12. It can be cast at insanely low temperatures, melted in a bbq or a small box made of firebricks and filled with charcoal. It is much harder than AL and better suited for machine parts. It has good wear characteristics and does not need to be tempered. It is machine part hard when cast. And, it machines just as well as Aluminum.

So...
1. Cut a block in the shape of the machine piece you want to create. Make it 105% (guess) of the final size you want the piece to be.
2. Make a sand imprint of the piece. And cast it in ZA-12
3. Machine finish the piece using your cnc mill and an onsrud aluminum finishing bit.

Lost foam casting could even get you completely 3d parts. But you would need SolidCam or similar to setup the face finish machining. And a jig to hold the piece for each face milling. (or a 4 axis mill)

This is what I intend to try as soon as I my kit arrives. I have been playing around with the casting but need a mold making machine now

Regards,

[silver4dracs]

The material was T6061 1/4" aluminum. I used a regular wood 3/16" 2 flute endmill, no coolant, no air, just a vacuum for chip ejection. Cut depth was .01 per pass. To cut two of these took almost 2 hours with hole drilling. Speed is really not an issue with me.

I broke the bit being much to aggressive with the cut depth. At first, I set it to .06 per pass while slowing the router to nearly the minimum speed setting and the bit gauled up and broke.

[joecnc2006]

nice looking mount.

[technomage]

I have seen quite a few posts about cutting metals and certain plastics with wood router spindles. I got to thinking that what might be useful would be a very tiny torque converter like on a car except scaled down. Being a small fry I have no desire to create one from scratch so I went looking and found this
http://hi-tech-pr.com/goped/goped-liquimatic.htm
Its used on motorized skateboards. I was wondering if something like this might work to convert the 8000 rpms of a wood router spindle done to something more in line with machining aluminum.
Hope this is the right forum if not let me know and I will repost.sorry double post
Hope to hear what everybody thinks.
Technomage

[mdframe]

Originally Posted by joe2000che nice looking mount.

Joe,

I hate to seek you down like this but I am not getting responses from you via e-mail so I can only assume your SPAM is catching me. I need to discuss the kit I purchased and awaiting delivery. Please contact me as soon as possible.

Thanks,

Matt

[joecnc2006]

Originally Posted by mdframe Joe, I hate to seek you down like this but I am not getting responses from you via e-mail so I can only assume your SPAM is catching me. I need to discuss the kit I purchased and awaiting delivery. Please contact me as soon as possible. Thanks, Matt

Got your message on here and just responded.

Joe