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#25
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The Y-Axis uses 3/4" gas pipe and the X-Axis uses 1" gas pipe and that is what I used on my machine. |
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#27
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60" and 36" respectively. Don't forget to check length not to exceed the distances, sometimes gas pipes are a little long and need to be trimmed. Joe |
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#29
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The above quoted answer is correct. Pipe size specifications can be very confusing & the term "gas pipe" is jargon. They are stated as "nominal" (approx.) inside diameter. You are concerned with the outside diameter which is always constant even though the wall thickness or "schedule" can vary. 3/4" pipe has an O.D. of 1.05" 1" pipe is 1.32" O.D. Last edited by Weldtutor; 02-23-2007 at 08:38 AM. |
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#30
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| I got my pipes from Home Depot and both of the HD near me carry pre cut and threaded 36" and 60" pipes. I used black pipe because they are normally smoother than galvanized as suggested to me by Joe. It was nice having a selection because I was able to pick through them and find some pretty good pipes. Several had teeth marks from the pipe machine so be careful when selecting or having them cut and threaded by them for you. |
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#33
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| Got some work done, updates at www.cncmachine.phillipsfamily.ca Enjoy |
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#34
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| More updates were just posted on the web page. Got one problem I just can't seem to figure out, maybe someone can help me. The cutting of shapes are of by 0.005 to 0.025" (ALLWAYS under sized). The difference varies but is not based on position on the table, I have reduced the speed of the final cut to 5ipm. Checked my backlash and it appears to be about .002. I machine an inside square 1" and pocket of 1" and I get squares of .94 to 1.03 (Seldom being over). The faster I cut the final cut the sloppier the finish. Some easy examples are drill holes. I get .197 for a .201 hole. Rarely will it be the size required. Using a ruler the overall finished part is the right size (can't measure the bigger parts with a vernier). At this point I just fix the holes by redrilling them and allowing the wood to recenter. What ever it is does not grow as the rotor moves down the axis. Checked the back lash by doing the following: Move the axis in one direction for about 1". Put the dial indicator up against it and move the other way in .001 increments. Watch for the dial to start to move. One thing I did notice, is sometimes I put the jog at .1 movements and when I jog it moves .08, .12, .1, .1,.1, .09, .08... but the total movement overal for alot of movement is acrurate. I believe I have everything tightened up nicely... but I could have missed something. I am for sure the motors are not skipping steps. My walls are nice and straight on the edges of the part (which do not have finish passes... the circles do they have .02 finishing passes.). No stair casing on the side in MDF but a little in plastic. While it is not a huge concern I really like my machines as tight as I can get them. Not sure what else to look at does any one got any ideas? At a point where I am thinking the really accurate stuff I might just add .05 to the size |
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#35
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| Cut two identical squares in the same place on the machinie, one climb cutting and one conventional. How much different are they? You may be seeing bit deflection, since it increases with speed. Try a larger diameter tool and see if you get better results.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#36
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| I will give the climb/conventional test a go tomorrow. Now that you say it the numbers I believe are different based on cutter size. I am using a 3/16 as I need it to cut all the holes that are called for and the holes are what are causing me the biggest grief. I know I get some deflect as this machine is not well designed to hold a large tool head on (which I have in place to get the maximum amount of vacuum). |
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