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  #37  
Old 03-27-2007, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by sdantonio View Post
My limited understanding is that the spring is supposed to stretch the screw a bit (or at least put it under tension) to minimize whip. How is that going to work with nuts on both sides of the spring?

That is correct what you need is a washer against the bearing, then the spring and finally the nuts to apply tension and compress the spring, then lock it down.

Joe
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:33 AM
 
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Smile

The legs are actually 2x4s glued together ( covered the seam with spackle ), As for the spring I don't really know how it works . I was thinking maybe it helps stop oscillation, there by helping stop the whip. I know Jay used similar setup and said it helped in one of his videos I believe. If it works great if not I can try something else.
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Old 03-27-2007, 09:36 AM
 
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thanks Joe I will put in the washer I was hoping someone would point out anything wrong. It is a dry/ test fit run at this time.
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Old 03-27-2007, 10:08 AM
 
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Red face Jays preload setup

Here is the correct way to do Jays preload as Joe stated
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpo...0&postcount=35
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Old 03-27-2007, 11:28 AM
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This is something I threw together aq year or so ago. Replace the bellevilles with the spring and the leadscrew from motor should read motor shaft
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File Type: pdf leadscrew preload.pdf‎ (50.9 KB, 333 views)
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Old 03-27-2007, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by calgrdnr View Post
The legs are actually 2x4s glued together ( covered the seam with spackle ), As for the spring I don't really know how it works . I was thinking maybe it helps stop oscillation, there by helping stop the whip. I know Jay used similar setup and said it helped in one of his videos I believe. If it works great if not I can try something else.
What might be a good idea to strengthen things a bit more is to run a piece of 1/8 in steel strapping, about 8 inches long to cover the back side (inside) joint between the short 2x4 piece and the front/back inside pieces. I think you've solved my question of how to strengthen the legs without taking them off. Thanks
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Old 03-27-2007, 07:16 PM
 
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Thanks sdantonio for the ideas and PDF. The table is pretty solid. After I put on the bottom shelve it really
added some weight and seems to be pretty rigid. If I put in the garage where I plan it should be easy enough to anchor to the wall.
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Old 04-08-2007, 08:32 PM
 
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Cool Another brick in the wall....

Okay no bricks, but I moved this thing by myself. It is built like a brick outhouse I only had to move it ten feet and even with the help of a dolly (laid down and table put on top) it was a chore I do not care to repeat.
I have been waiting for OSH to get me a quart of light blue hammered paint for 5 weeks plus. I finely broke down and bought the only 3 spray cans I could find in Visalia. It was enough to get inside and out side of the rack (frame only panels are silver). I had a aluminum panel for the front didn't have paint for. I plan on doing the front in wood, should be one of the first projects I use the router for. Right after the dust collector attachment. I still have 1 motor to wire up. Need to figure out limit switches and E-stop. I might do with out just to try it out. The PC keeps hiccupping, so I am going to put a different system in. I have to adjust the length of all the cable to reach inside the rack. Pretty minor just need to get more cable. Well now that you read this here is the eye candy, O/K not candy but at least another picture of Joe’s fine machine...
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Old 04-09-2007, 02:45 AM
 
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Very Very Impressive! The machine looks like its ready to make money.

Jason
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Old 04-09-2007, 08:54 AM
 
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Thanks Jason ,
I am buiding this to learn how, I am complete newbe to CNC world . So I have lots to learn before I could ever make money. Its been a great project. I am having a blast building it.
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Old 04-09-2007, 11:10 AM
 
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Calgrdnr,
For me the Journey was as much fun as getting there. I'm still having fun.
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Old 04-09-2007, 11:18 AM
 
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Looking good Kent!!
I like the way you are doing your cables! Is that uni-strut you're using?

Bob
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