Started building my first (Joe's) router

[bp092]

Looks good, be careful with the glue if you plan to paint it. All of your glue smeared everywhere near the joints will just have the paint slipping off and won't adhere. You can sand it down a bit with a block but it's going to be a PITA lol.

[David Da Costa]

I guess that the side effect of putting on plenty of glue.

I'm not sure how much of a problem it will be though if I don't sand it of as I after I apply spackle to the cut edges and brad holes I intend to spray a coart or two of Zinsser BIN shellac nased primer which is sealeer and "stain killer". Then apply some Rust-oleum white sandable primer then finish with Rust-oleum Painters Touch semi-gloss white spray. What do you think?


David

[bp092]

It won't adhere, I think you said you were using titebond. Even if it does it will just be temporary and will flake off. Scuff it up a bit with some 100. Even scratching up will be better than anything. Glue is kinda the devil, even more so when I do stain grade cabinetry, it turns white under stains and paints really poorly as I explained. It's not as if it's a thick layer of the glue though and the MDF probably sucked it up, just scuff it up a bit by hand and you should be all set. You should be liberal with MDF as it is pouris. When I use MDF as a substrate or core for a countertop or cabinet I often do a solid wood edging on it because as you know the edges painted look awful unless they are either edgebanded, filled as you're going to do or with an applied edge. I put on a nice layer, let it soak up for a few seconds, apply a bit more and then clamp it up. If I'm doing a big glue up I put massive amounts on for obvious reasons, as by the time I get to the end of the counter with pipe clamps the joint is starved of any glue. Don't be too concerned, form follows function, it's a cnc router anyways, you're going to get it dirty and mar it up a bit . Have fun David!

[David Da Costa]

Yes I am using Titebond III.

Thank you for the advice, I really appreciate it.

Yes I know it's only a CNC Router, but it's nice to build something that looks "professional" when it's finished.

Besides that I figure that the better I seal the MDF the less chance of it absorbing fluids and warping or expanding.

Thanks again

David

[David Da Costa]

Okay, next update.

So moving onto the gantry torsion box assembly.

The first picture shows the un-assembled parts of the torsion box. In the second picture I have only glued in the two pieces at the ends as I decided it was easier to get the whole thing square first with the minimum amount of pieces to reduce the amount of wet glue I have to handle at one time.

Once these are squared and the glue sets, I will then add the other pieces.

[bp092]

Looks good, those parts look really clean and sharply cut, Joe did a nice job. I hear yah on sealing it, MDF is a very stable product by any means, more so than plywood, I'm planning on painting it for the same reasons. Did you set the bearing glides in the gantry z axis assembly part on the page before already or do you plan to put them in after?

[David Da Costa]

I have test fitted the bearing slides and I need to shave about 1/16 of the angle aluminum and also the HDPE to get it to fit in place.

Of course these will not be permanently fitted until I have painted the carriage.

[joecnc2006]

Looks very nice, I really like the clamps you are using. Also i sent you an e-mail.

For the glueing and alignment of the gantry side pieces use 1/4" bolts and just slide a few into place then use alot of glue and clamp down.

joe

[David Da Costa]

That's a great tip Joe - Thanks and also thanks for clarification that the bolts should be 5/16 not 1/4.

[David Da Costa]

After clarification from Joe, I opened up the recessed holes in the underside of the top of the carriage and hammered in 4 5/16 nuts. I used a good tip from Joe to use a bolt partially screwed onto the nut to act as a guide to ensure I sink the nuts squarl. You can see in the first picture the nuts in place with one of the guiding bolts shown in place to illustrate the tip.

The second picture shows the torsion box skins glued in place and secured with 1" brads.

[bp092]

Looks good David. I have the same PC nailer, love it, hasn't misfired or jammed once and I Use it heavily. Those quick clamps are handy too, wish I had more but they put a dent in your pocket lol. Now common, only a few hours left to the weekend! When can we see some wood chips flyin!?

[bp092]

Get the kit, spend the time while it's being cut fabricating the other mechanical parts and controller as David did.