New Machine Build- Joe's CNC Model 2006 R2 in Gardner, KS

[rdoerr01]

Today I managed to get started on my Joe's 2006 R2 CNC machine. I purchased 3 sheets of 49"x 97" x 1/2" MDF from Home Depot ($23.26 a sheet, total with tax = 75.82).
This evening I used the table saw and circular saw with clamping fence to cut all the pieces for the X/Y platform. For now they are just cut into square shapes.
Next up is to layout the drilled holes and slots.


Ray

Session Time: 2 hrs
Total Time: 2 hrs

[rdoerr01]

So far I have decided on the following items for my Joe's 2006 R2 model CNC:

1. Lead Screw and Drill Rod from McMaster-Carr
Qty 2 - 6' ACME 1/2" - 10, 2 Start Lead Screw, Right Hand Turn. Part # 99030A720 - $52.20 ea.
Qty 1 - 3' W1 Tool Steel Rod .7500" Diameter, 3' Length - $18.09. This is $12.94 at Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies, but not worth paying for another shipping charge, so I bought it here.


2. Bosch 16176 2.25 Horsepower Electronic Variable Speed Router Motor with 10-foot Cord from Amazon.com. The 16176 model is the Motor only from the 1617EVS router. The price from Amazon was $157.99.

3. Bearings from VBX.com per the plans.
100Skate - 100 608ZZ Skateboard/Inline Skate/Rollerblade/Hockey Bearings - $ 34.95 for Qty 100.
R8ZZ 10 Bearing R8ZZ 1/2"x1 1/8"x5/16" Shielded - $19.95 for Qty 10

Next is order the Lead Screw Nut and collers etc from dumpstercnc.com and to continue researching the Stepper and Driver Board options.


Ray

[rdoerr01]

I have been burning the midnight oil lately reading a bunch of posted to this excellent forum and making further decisions on the parts I wanted for my Joe's 2006 CNC machine.

Last night I place an order with Dumpstercnc.com for the Lead Screw accessories. Here is what I ordered.

COUPLERS - ACME 1/2-10 (2 Start)
Item #: AC12102-AC
Bore Size: .250" $17.50 USD Qty 3 $52.50 USD

THREAD CLAMPS - ACME 1/2-10 (2 Start)
Item #: AC12102-TC
$9.75 USD Qty 6 $58.50 USD

1-3/16" Square flange upgrade for 1/2" & M12 size leadnuts
$2.50 USD Qty 3 $7.50 USD

LEADNUTS - ACME 1/2-10 (2 Start)
Item #: AC12102-LN
$19.50 USD Qty 3 $58.50 USD

Subtotal: $177.00 USD
Shipping: $6.00 USD
Insurance: ----
Total: $183.00 USD



I also decided on using Keling Inc to supply the G540 Driver Board and the Stepper motors. Below is the order for these parts.

Description Unit price Qty Amount
G540 4 axis driver (Gecko)
$249.00 USD Qty 1 $249.00 USD

KL23H284-35-4B
$49.00 USD Qty 3 $147.00 USD

Note: Since this stepper (KL23H284-35-4B) was Out of Stock, Keling Emailed me and said they can replace it with KL23H2100-35-4B for the same price of $49. I liked the 284 model because it was physically smaller with almost identical spec's. Keling said the 2100 was likely a better unit, so I took their advice and had them use that for my order.


KL-600-48 48V/12.5A
$129.95 USD Qty 1 $129.95 USD

E-Stop
$9.95 USD Qty 1 $9.95 USD

Subtotal: $535.90 USD
Shipping: $36.04 USD
Insurance: ----
Total: $571.94 USD


Next up is to get the aluminum angle for the bearing blocks and the 4 - 60" black Gas Pipe for the X axis rails.


Thanks

Ray

[KentCL]

This should be a good build,I'll start looking for projects for you to do.
One thing i realized It more fun watching you spend money than actually doing it myself.

[rdoerr01]

Yesterday, Mr. Brown came by with my order from McMaster-Car which had the Qty 2 - 6' x 1/2" - 10, 2 start Lead Screws and the 3' x 3/4" Drill Rod. Boy are they fast preparing and shipping orders.

I also went to Lowes and picked up Qty 4 - 1" x 6' Black Gas Pipe, most of the Nuts, Bolts, Washer and the 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 6' Aluminum Angle. I went to about four Home Depot's and Lowes stores that only carrier 1 1/2" angle until I went to this very large Lowes store which had it. My backup plan was to route 1/4" off the 1 1/2" if it would have come to that. I', glad it didn't.

Last night I spent about 1.5 hours laying out the hole locations for drilling. What a pain this is to do by hand since a lot of the measurements have some really screwing decimal values which I then convert to the nearest /32". It sure would have been nice for those of use that don't have access to a CNC machine to have the dimensions in 1/8" of an inch or worst case 1/16" of an inch. I know some of the values for holes are metric and that is fine, but the other holes and board dimension would be easier if they were on better boundry measurements.

Anyway, I did get it laid out and I also added 1 extra 3/4" hole on each side center between the pipes and 1/2" from the outside surface of the Y axis torsion box. This will be used to run wires for steppers and limit switches. I will try and keep thing tidy.

I also decided to create the bottom two lightening holes on the front and rear end plates. The inside plates have these lower two cutouts, but the end plates do not. I thought these would make excellent hand holds to be able to move the machine around if you have a friend to help. It will make for easy lifting.

Tonight I had about 2.5 hours working in the basement drilling the holes in the front/rear inside and outside end plates. I lined them all up and air nailed the 4 of them together using 2" brad nails. I purposely located the nail inside the two lower cut-out being careful they would be out of the way for my drill hole pattern and saw lines. This worked out very well. All of these holes were drilled on a 12" Ryobi Table Top drill press with the laser sight. I used the Irwin Speed Bor drill bits for the 1 1/2" holes for the upper three cutouts and 1 1/4" for the bottom two cutouts. This allowed just enough overlap so the holes intersect, but not too much that it would make drilling the second hole impossible. The four holes for the 1" gas pipe will be drilled once the adjustable Spade Irwin bit arrives, $33.46 with the shipping.

I'm also trying to figure out why the hole for the stepper motor in the front/rear end plates are 1 5/8" while the hole in the bearing support piece is only 7/8". And I also need to find a bit for the 4 - 0.2" stepper mounting holes. I could use either 13/64 which is .2031 or get a #8 bit which is .199" or #7 which is .201". The diagram from Keling where I bought the stepper has these holes for NEMA 23 mount as 5 mm, but the chances of finding metric bits locally is slim. Oh well, it isn't going to matter which way I go since they are only a few thousands off.

Ray

Session Time: 4 hrs
Total Time: 6 hrs

[rdoerr01]

Here are the pictures.

[rdoerr01]

I spent about 6 hours today working the MDF piece for the torsion box. I picked up a #8 drill bit to drill the holes for the servo mounting. The plans call for a 1 5/8" hole for the server/lead screw. I decided to instead drill it to only 1 1/2". I don't see this being a problem since the hole on the bearing mounting holder is much smaller then 1 1/2".

I discovered I screwed up on the dimensions for the four long torsion ribs. Plans say they are 58.5" long which is correct, but the height is 5.85" and that is what I made them. Then I realized the plans have the top and bottom skins as 1/4" MDF and not 1/2", which I'm using. Anyway I discovered this after already having completed the eight datto's in the rib. Oh well, I just had to run them through the table saw again and adjust the datto length on the cross ribs. When doing the datto's, I nailed the 4 long ribs together and then cut them on the table saw. This made for nice square cut corners. Now when I did the shorter cross ribs, the table saw blade was at it'a max height and still wasn't enough for the datto I needed to make. So tomorrow I will have to drill the rest with a 1/2" bit and bandsaw the rest out.

I have attached a few pictures from today's session showing the boards being clamped or nailed together to be datto's on the table saw. The best part is I still have all my fingers!

The bearing arrive via USPS today.


Ray

Session Time: 6 hrs
Total Time: 12 hrs

[rdoerr01]

My order from Keling Inc arrived today with the Stepper Motor's, Power Supply, Gecko Stepper Drive and Emergency Stop Switch. I solder the 4 wire of the Stepper Motor's to the supplied DB9 Male connectors. I also solder the required current limiting resistor between Pin 1 and Pin 5. I use a 3.3Kohm, 1/4 W , 5% resistor which should limit the drive to 3.3 Amps. This is slightly under the 3.5 Amps that the Steppers are spec'd for, but this is on the safe side of things.

I also create more dust tonight routing the lightning holes and recesses in the cross member ribs of the platform. The new exhaust fan in the window worked wonders to blow the dust out of the basement and keep it from polluting the house.

Here are some more recent pictures.



Ray

Session Time: 3 hrs
Total Time: 15 hrs

[kelvoden]

Originally Posted by rdoerr01 Last night I spent about 1.5 hours laying out the hole locations for drilling. What a pain this is to do by hand since a lot of the measurements have some really screwing decimal values which I then convert to the nearest /32". It sure would have been nice for those of use that don't have access to a CNC machine to have the dimensions in 1/8" of an inch or worst case 1/16" of an inch. I know some of the values for holes are metric and that is fine, but the other holes and board dimension would be easier if they were on better boundry measurements.

If anyone is interested I have made a set of plans that addresses the issue above for the non CNC made parts. I have rounded and made slight adjustments and added suggestions. They are for sale at a very reasonable cost. Please email me for more information regarding these plans

[rdoerr01]

Since the table saw is broke and waiting for parts, I thought I would start in on the bearing slides. I spent a good part of the day cutting the 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" aluminum angle into the 8 pieces required for the bearing slides. You need 4 of them 8" long, 2 of them 7.5" long and 2 of them 6" long. I trimmed these to length on the band-saw and then sanded them square on the ends and finally buffed the end using a Scotch Brite wheel on the grinder.
Drilling the 5/16" holes 0.433" from the vertex of the angle was easy by using the bearing and 5/16" drill bit to ensure the edge of the bearing and the edge of the aluminum line up. I clamped the extra angle to the drill press to ensure all of them are drilled in the same distance from the vertex. Then I used a small block to mark the hole position from the end of the angle. The holes are either 3/8" or 1 1/8" from the ends.
The toughest part preparing these angles was the 1/4" flat that had to be filed on the vertex of the angle for the 1/4" hole. This flat area is 3/4" x 1/4" which should ensure you don't go all the way through the angle. I used the band-saw to cut this area by holding the piece to cut up against another angle, this allowed me to cut small slices and then I filed the remaining out by hand. Once this was completed, you then drill the 1/4" holes.
Next I prepared all the slides with the 5/16" bolts, washer, nuts and bearings. On the 8" slides, I used 1 1/4" bolts which went through the angle, then 2 nuts, bearing and final stop-nut. On the 7.5" slides, I used 1 1/4" bolts which went through the angle, lock washer, nut, bearing and final stop-nut. And finally for the 6" slide, I used 1" bolts, nut, bearing and final stop-nut.
I'm glad these are now completed.

Ray

Session Time: 5 hrs
Total Time: 20 hrs

[cnctoolman]

Nice work, and keep us updated like you are. Very detailed.

[rdoerr01]

I finally received the parts for the table saw and manage to get it back together this past Friday night. I then started cutting the parts for the bottom gantry torsion box. All the ribs are the same except the out ones are flipped 180 degrees from the inner ones. Also the outter ones are suppose to have the 4 - 1/4" to bolt to the gantry sides, but I decided not to drill these now and wait to drill them once I position the sides on the end of this torsion box.

From the pictures you will also notice I changed the design slightly since I'm using the anti-backlash (LEADNUTS - ACME 1/2-10 (2 Start)) from dumpsterCNC.com along with the flange (1-3/16" Square flange upgrade for 1/2" & M12 size leadnuts). I added a middle cross section to mount flange of the leadscrew nut. I datto the end of this cross sectrion piece as well for added strength and gluing surface. I also changed the 4 cutouts for access to the nuts, I just drilled 1 1/2" holes since you only need to get in there with a wrench. I also change the center section cutout so it would be glued to my center cross section. You can see all the clamps I used to glue this down to the top of my table saw, hopefully this is flat with no twist.





Ray

Session Time: 8 hrs
Total Time: 28 hrs