![]() | |
| Home Page | Mark Forums Read | Today's Posts | My Replies | Classifieds | Reviews | Photo Gallery | Web Links | Share Files | Advertise With Us | Ad List |
| |||||||
| This forum is sponsored by: |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
#1
| |||
| |||
Hello! I'm about to start my first cnc build from Joe's 2006 R-2 plans. I need a little guidance about how to tackle the cuts for the parts. Let me know if the following process is correct/wrong: 1) Open the main assembly file in edrawing and isolate a part to cut 2) Print it 3) Use the measuring tool to figure the dimensions and placement of holes and report it on my printed sheet 4) Build a routing template. 5) Route the mdf. Is there a better way or is it a sound approach? Please help! |
|
#2
| |||
| |||
| Hi Javarik, the method you described is pretty much what I'm doing at the moment. My build thread is included in my signature block below. I haven't bothered with the templates though, but whatever method you use, you need to be as accurate as possible. I've achieved this so far mainly due to the use of various jigs ensuring a high accuracy and repeatability if you know what I mean. I don't think I could have achieved the required accuracy without the following tools: - Slide compound saw - table saw with accurate fence arrangement - routers (one table mounted) - bench/pedestal drill (allowing a lot more accuracy than power drills) - jigsaw (to cut all those weight-saving holes......) I'm not finished yet, but it's been a rewarding process so far. Good luck with the build mate.
__________________ - Craig. my JOES2006 build thread - http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106995 |
|
#3
| |||
| |||
| Hi Craig, Thanks for the reply. It seems we have the same basic tools. So far I cut the parts of the Z-axis carriage am now working my way with the Y torsion box. I will dry fit every part in case I made mistakes. I am not sure about assembling/gluing the torsion boxes yet, although I think I read a post about it. |
|
#4
| |||
| |||
If you wishes to purchase the CD of this set of drawings for $20 you should email me at kelvoden@gmail.com. I will include the updates/modified Joes original solidWorks files that have been used to make the drawings on the CD as well, so that the CAD information is there too. |
|
#6
| |||
| |||
| KO |
|
#7
| |||
| |||
| So far I have assembled the z-axis carriage succesfully. I am working on the gantry right now. I guess the real test is when assembling the pipes and checking for binding and proper alignment. I'll know only then if I was precise enough. ed |
|
#8
| |||
| |||
|
Trust me you can mess up bad with precision and still it will work. this machine is forgiving. |
|
#9
| |||
| |||
| Joe has said in the forum that the skate bearing spacer doesnt have to be that accurate because it can be shimmed with washers but the process is a little hit and miss or trial and error. Joe uses the same spacer in both the Y and X (@ 0.520") and a nut in the Z. When they are aligned correctly the bearing will sit perpendicular the to the pipe and have less wear. To achieve this the three bearing spacer sizes should be adjusted to the following: X = 0.520" (original size) Y = 0.388" Z = 0.205" The attached drawing of the Z axis bearing should show on the end view the three bearings perpendicular to the 3/4" drill rod. The holes were moved to give a little more clearance on the plastic pipe. I does reduce the bearing centers (and hence the stability is minutely affected but I thought it was worth doing) Please note that these are my improvements that I felt made it easier to assemble JOES great router. |
|
#11
| |||
| |||
| Thanks for the kind words, I did spend a lot of time making these drawings as accurate and as helpful as possible. Solid Works has two tools that I also used (to ensure accuracy) It allows you to check that the mating holes of the two parts being bolted, align to each other perfectly (ensuring that the centers are accurately located to each other) It also allows you to check if there is any interference between the parts, ensuring that there are no negative overlaps. All of the assemblies were checked with both of these tools until a clean bill of health was achieved. KO |
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Joe's 4x4 hybrid build/2006 build | krap101 | DIY-CNC Router Table Machines | 1 | 08-09-2010 05:30 AM |
| Newbie- Looking to build Joe's 2006 R2 | KeeWay | Joes CNC Model 2006 | 11 | 04-11-2009 09:56 PM |
| Another Joe's 2006 Build in Ky | Lucan | Joes CNC Model 2006 | 23 | 10-12-2007 05:26 PM |
| My Second Router Build This time Joe's CNC Model 2006 | Catapultsup | Joes CNC Model 2006 | 4 | 08-17-2007 10:17 AM |
| New build in Canada: Joe's 2006 | 300dt | Joes CNC Model 2006 | 2 | 07-02-2007 11:00 AM |