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Old 08-18-2010, 11:29 PM
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Canada
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javarik is on a distinguished road
New build from Joe's 2006 r-2 plans

Hello!

I'm about to start my first cnc build from Joe's 2006 R-2 plans. I need a little guidance about how to tackle the cuts for the parts. Let me know if the following process is correct/wrong:

1) Open the main assembly file in edrawing and isolate a part to cut
2) Print it
3) Use the measuring tool to figure the dimensions and placement of holes and report it on my printed sheet
4) Build a routing template.
5) Route the mdf.

Is there a better way or is it a sound approach?

Please help!


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Old 08-31-2010, 04:35 AM
 
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Hi Javarik, the method you described is pretty much what I'm doing at the moment. My build thread is included in my signature block below. I haven't bothered with the templates though, but whatever method you use, you need to be as accurate as possible. I've achieved this so far mainly due to the use of various jigs ensuring a high accuracy and repeatability if you know what I mean.
I don't think I could have achieved the required accuracy without the following tools:
- Slide compound saw
- table saw with accurate fence arrangement
- routers (one table mounted)
- bench/pedestal drill (allowing a lot more accuracy than power drills)
- jigsaw (to cut all those weight-saving holes......)

I'm not finished yet, but it's been a rewarding process so far. Good luck with the build mate.
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my JOES2006 build thread - http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106995
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:01 PM
 
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javarik is on a distinguished road

Hi Craig,

Thanks for the reply.

It seems we have the same basic tools. So far I cut the parts of the Z-axis carriage am now working my way with the Y torsion box.

I will dry fit every part in case I made mistakes.

I am not sure about assembling/gluing the torsion boxes yet, although I think I read a post about it.
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Old 09-16-2010, 07:07 PM
 
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kelvoden is on a distinguished road

Originally Posted by javarik View Post
Hi Craig,

Thanks for the reply.

It seems we have the same basic tools. So far I cut the parts of the Z-axis carriage am now working my way with the Y torsion box.

I will dry fit every part in case I made mistakes.

I am not sure about assembling/gluing the torsion boxes yet, although I think I read a post about it.
I have completed a full set of manufacturing drawings for Joes CNC Router 2006-02. I have spent several hundred hours re-formatting the parts and compiling the drawings from the original files. There are 23 assembly drawings and 52 part drawings. Joes original solidWorks files have been modified slightly to more suit the individual who would be making these parts by hand (not CNC cut) I have made some slight modifications to some of the parts that I thought makes manufacturing easier or helps with the accurate during assembly, including accurately locating and identifying all of the drilled and tapped holes in all of the parts. These drawings include all of the information to make the parts and graphically show how they are put together. Every assembly drawing has a bill of materials clearly showing the entire parts list for that assembly. The format of the drawings is high quality PDF's so that anyone can open, view and print them. Unfortunately this makes the file sizes very large.
If you wishes to purchase the CD of this set of drawings for $20 you should email me at kelvoden@gmail.com. I will include the updates/modified Joes original solidWorks files that have been used to make the drawings on the CD as well, so that the CAD information is there too.
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Old 09-23-2010, 12:37 PM
 
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Thanks for the offer. I have been using the original edrawings to hand cut everything. Not always easy but manageable I guess.
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Old 09-23-2010, 10:09 PM
 
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kelvoden is on a distinguished road

Originally Posted by javarik View Post
Thanks for the offer. I have been using the original edrawings to hand cut everything. Not always easy but manageable I guess.
Not a problem, just thought you may want to save a little bother and as I have included all of the holes (both drilled and tapped) and checked to ensure they line up to each other, it ensures the parts go together as planned. I do understand the desire to do things yourself.....its a way of forcing yourself to get involved at more that just a surface level.
KO
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:59 AM
 
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So far I have assembled the z-axis carriage succesfully. I am working on the gantry right now. I guess the real test is when assembling the pipes and checking for binding and proper alignment. I'll know only then if I was precise enough.

ed
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:35 PM
 
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nego_0 is on a distinguished road

Originally Posted by javarik View Post
So far I have assembled the z-axis carriage succesfully. I am working on the gantry right now. I guess the real test is when assembling the pipes and checking for binding and proper alignment. I'll know only then if I was precise enough.

ed
Trust me you can mess up bad with precision and still it will work. this machine is forgiving.
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Old 09-26-2010, 07:42 AM
 
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Originally Posted by javarik View Post
So far I have assembled the z-axis carriage succesfully. I am working on the gantry right now. I guess the real test is when assembling the pipes and checking for binding and proper alignment. I'll know only then if I was precise enough.

ed
When I re-modeled Joes files I made two small changes to the Z bearing assemblies. I changed the size of the bearing spacer and I located the outer two bearing bolt holes a little further in from the ends (5/8" instead of 3/8").

Joe has said in the forum that the skate bearing spacer doesnt have to be that accurate because it can be shimmed with washers but the process is a little hit and miss or trial and error. Joe uses the same spacer in both the Y and X (@ 0.520") and a nut in the Z. When they are aligned correctly the bearing will sit perpendicular the to the pipe and have less wear.
To achieve this the three bearing spacer sizes should be adjusted to the following:
X = 0.520" (original size)
Y = 0.388"
Z = 0.205"
The attached drawing of the Z axis bearing should show on the end view the three bearings perpendicular to the 3/4" drill rod.
The holes were moved to give a little more clearance on the plastic pipe. I does reduce the bearing centers (and hence the stability is minutely affected but I thought it was worth doing)

Please note that these are my improvements that I felt made it easier to assemble JOES great router.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 2006-02-ASSY-020 Z Axis Slide -.pdf‎ (1.43 MB, 198 views)
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Old 09-27-2010, 04:16 PM
 
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Joe Cleary is on a distinguished road
Smile Time saver!

I went thru all the posts before starting my 2006-R2 and still didn't find all the goodies this CD will give you. Every part is dimensioned!
Joe
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Old 09-27-2010, 05:13 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Joe Cleary View Post
I went thru all the posts before starting my 2006-R2 and still didn't find all the goodies this CD will give you. Every part is dimensioned!
Joe
Joe,
Thanks for the kind words, I did spend a lot of time making these drawings as accurate and as helpful as possible. Solid Works has two tools that I also used (to ensure accuracy)
It allows you to check that the mating holes of the two parts being bolted, align to each other perfectly (ensuring that the centers are accurately located to each other)
It also allows you to check if there is any interference between the parts, ensuring that there are no negative overlaps.
All of the assemblies were checked with both of these tools until a clean bill of health was achieved.

KO
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Old 09-27-2010, 09:00 PM
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Really nice job on the plans.

like to get a copy sometime.

Joe
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