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  1. #1
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    Default Want to do a CNC Router

    A week ago I didn't know there were such things as DIY CNC Routers. I have done a few kitchen cabinets and was aware of the multi hundred thousand dollar machines. Way out of my range.

    Last Saturday i saw a video on YouTube about the JGRO and since that time have read about a million threads and articles about DIY CNC.

    I decided to build a JGRO and wasn't paying attention to the Joes CNC Model 2006. I like that a lot more.

    I have ordered a Probotix electronics kit and a bunch of other stuff so its going to happen. Got a bunch of MDF from Lowe's last night.

    My question is I would like to switch from the JGRO to the Joe's 2006. I have downloaded the plans for the R2 version.

    How do I extract them to paper? I have downloaded the solidworks viewer and can see the parts but they have no dimensions so where do I get those?

    Would someone point me in the right direction so that I can start cutting wood?

    Thanks
    Larry

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    Member ger21's Avatar
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    I'm not sure if there are any actual dimensioned drawings of the 2006.

    Your best bet may be to use a 2D CAD program to put the dimensions on yourself and print them. You'll want to open the .dwg files.

    This free program is supposed to be pretty good, but you'll need to learn how to dimension and print with it.
    http://www.doublecad.com/Products/Do...0/Default.aspx

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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    Ok I just didn't want to have to become a draftsman. I'm getting ready to retire after 30 years in data processing and don't want to learn another "one time use" program

    I'll probably stick with the JGRO

    Thanks
    Larry



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    Quote Originally Posted by cygnus008 View Post
    Ok I just didn't want to have to become a draftsman. I'm getting ready to retire after 30 years in data processing and don't want to learn another "one time use" program

    I'll probably stick with the JGRO

    Thanks
    Larry
    Larry,

    don't be discouraged. Take a look at:

    www.joescnc.com

    at first glance the entry fee of $100.00 might seem a little steep. After buying the plans you gain access to a closed forum that contains a wealth of knowledge. I think you will be impressed with the drawings with all the dimensions and BOM (bill of materials) and help from the group. It is a VERY helpful group who are willing to lend a helping hand when needed.

    Take a look and let us know what you think.



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    Maybe I asked the wrong question.

    How are others getting the parts for the CNC router cut?

    Larry



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    I don't have it installed, but I thought you could measure in the Solidworks Viewer?

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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    Thought about this a bunch last night and think this is what i need.

    open the DWG in doubleCAD and then print out at a printing scale of 1"=1" Then I can lay(clue) the template on the MDF and good to go to cut it.

    Is this how others did it? Or has everyone bought a kit from Joe?

    Thanks
    Larry



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    That idea would work and I believe some have done as you suggest. I have seen some builders comment they wished they had gotten them from Joe after doing it this way. You can take the files to a local CNC shop and see if they will cut them for you. I have a friend who has a ShopBot and has cut them for one of the local builders. This is not a bad way to go in case you need one or two parts made over. You may find a local HYBRID builder who would be willing to cut them for you. There are lots of options so don't let this hold you up.



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    The company I am working for is going out of business one month after I retire So I have six months of mostly surfing because I am the only one who knows the databases so they got to keep me

    I have learned so much today! I figured out how to bring the .DWGs into DoubleCAD and get them printed 1 to 1 full size. I also started to figure out eDrawings and the power it has in showing the assemblys. This weekend i will probably attempt to make some masonite templates to use as guides to cut this with a router.

    All I have for tools at the moment is a router table and a contractors foldup table saw cause all my shop equipment is packed getting ready for the move to WY from Seattle.

    Anyway i see the value of learning doubleCAD for later when i get this thing running. One of the first things is my wife wants a grapevine type graphic cut into the corner of the kitchen cabinets doors in our new house. How else did you guys think I sold her on the cost of making this but "for her benifits"

    Plus we are living with my sister for the next 6 months so this will "keep me out of their hair for the winter" ha ha

    Anyway thanks for the suggestions and i will try to keep this updated as i build

    Larry
    Seattle



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    Quote Originally Posted by cygnus008 View Post

    Anyway i see the value of learning doubleCAD for later when i get this thing running.

    Good CAD skills will make using the machine a LOT easier when you get it done.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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    www.joescnc.com joecnc2006's Avatar
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    allot of people have printed out the drawing files as you mentioned to a 1:1 and glue to the mdf as templates to cut. But Ger21 is correct, you will want to learn some basic drawing skills in cadd this will only further your ability to make pieces after the machine is done.



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    Just upgrade to the Joes Hybrid, you will be glad you did!!!!



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    I'm waiting for a friend with a table saw to get back from vacation so I am gathering up parts.

    This next Saturday I am getting the HDPE and a bunch of the hardware. One thing I can't get a grasp on is the wire size to go from the controllers to the motors.

    In all the reading I have seen everything from 22 gauge to 14gauge.

    What gquge are most of you using? I know distance makes a difference but I would suspect that the wire to the z-axis wouldn't be much over 15-20ft from the electronic's box.

    Thanks
    Larry



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    22gauge should be fine. That's what I'm using. That's also what the leads are on most Nema 23 motors.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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    You really need to get on the support forum. The new rack and pinion mod is easier and cheaper than the lead screws. The only way you will find out about it is on the support forum.



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    I assume it is the forum at joescnc.com you are talking about.

    So to get on it I have to buy a $100 set of plans so that I can register? Looks like it on the registration page. At least it wants to know my paypal account

    Larry



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    Member ger21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stoneyreef View Post
    You really need to get on the support forum. The new rack and pinion mod is easier and cheaper than the lead screws. The only way you will find out about it is on the support forum.
    He's building the 2006, not the 4x4.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


  18. #18
    www.joescnc.com joecnc2006's Avatar
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    Yes the forum is a support forum for those building the CNC 4x4 Hybrid machine, it has grown quite abit with allot of interesting people and modifications to the machine and electronics.



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    I got the Probotix Montor Kit yesterday and am trying to get my head around wiring it up.
    Unipolar, bipolar series, bipolar parallel GAAAA!!!

    I see the torgue charts and all the comments but at this point I am not connecting with what it is telling me.

    The instructions at Probotix web site show wiring a unipolar I think but then he makes a comment about the bipolar only needing 4 wires.

    I think at this point I just need to know how to wire it and then later the why I did it that way will become more appearant. Also at this point i want to make sure I do it correct so I don't let the magic smoke out of the components.

    What method did you all use in setting up the steppers? And if it isn't too much trouble why did you do it that way?

    Thanks
    Larry

    182 days to retirement



  20. #20
    Member ger21's Avatar
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    Parallel will usually give you much higher speeds that series. But maybe not with that kit. It appears your drives can supply 2.5 amps. The motors when wired parallel are 4.2 amps. Since you can only supply ~60% of the current, you'll only get 60% of the torque. But you'll get it at higher speeds. When wired series, the motors are 2.1 amps. So you can supply full current to the motors and get full torque, but the torque will drop off faster at higher rpms.

    I have similarly rated motors (but only 250oz). I run them bipolar series with a Xylotex and get 150-190ipm with 1/2-8 2 start acme.

    You may need to actually try them both ways to see which offers higher performance.

    Gerry

    UCCNC 2017 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2017.html[/URL]

    Mach3 2010 Screenset
    [URL]http://www.thecncwoodworker.com/2010.html[/URL]

    JointCAM - CNC Dovetails & Box Joints
    [URL]http://www.g-forcecnc.com/jointcam.html[/URL]

    (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)


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