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  1. #61
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    Hello Flyon

    I hand similar problem when I built mine. It turned

    out to be alignments of the holes in one of my angles

    were off ( Z-Axis carrage). I made a template from

    steel, then redrilledboth angles everything aligned and

    adjust great after that.

    Good luck Kent



  2. #62
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    I didn't want to hear that. At least it's a place to start to fix the problem. Here are some pictures.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Joes CNC Model 2006 in Vancouver, Wa-2007_1031diapoct0002-jpg   Joes CNC Model 2006 in Vancouver, Wa-2007_1031diapoct0005-jpg  


  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by flyon View Post
    I didn't want to hear that. At least it's a place to start to fix the problem. Here are some pictures.
    I would try adjusting the Z-Axis carriage 1st, making sure it is still sq.

    Joe



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    Hate to say it.Thats what mine looked like. You can try adjust it out . but more then likely you wont be able to get your Z-axis squared up. That is the problem I had. I spent a few hours adjusting and didn't get it to work.

    I spent much less time making template, redrilling and then it adjusted real quick. at least the rough adjustment. I played with fine tuning too long, so finally I loosened the zaxis adjustment bolts, put in a .75 End Mill adjusted Zaxis screw till the router bit/router made the bottom bearings touch the lower pipe, then finger tightened the bolts. so the top bearings were touching all four to the pipes. I then brought zaxis screw as little as possible and used feeler gages to tweak to acceptable level.

    good luck I hope you can do it with out redrilling ( if you did it right first time you won't need to ) mine were only off a little bit. but it was enough to cause major misalighment.

    Agian hope you did better then I did with first settup and it aligns from the adjustment bolts

    Kent



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    Does the Carriage bind at the other end of the y-axis? or just at this end? If it binds at the other end maybe your carriage is to far back on the y-axis rails. Or the y-axis AB nut is installed wrong? If it binds only at the one end that would be that you have a bent screw. infact if you spin the screw does the end move around or stay in one position?

    looks like you are almost ready to start cutting!

    nick



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    It looks like the problem went away. I'm guessing its either because the screw itself was bending in the middle when I had the carriage at the far end the screw was 'bending' up then higher on the outside of gantry causing my problem. Maybe if I tried to install the screw with carriage on the supported side I wouldn't of seen this issue. Or it's because when I squared up the z carriage with screws on top and that moved the hole down and inline. But now anyways all the holes are level.

    I now have all the drive screws installed. All I need now is some wire and limit switches and I'm in business. I should have that in the next few days. I'm going to spend the weekend on finding or building a table.

    Flyon

    Last edited by flyon; 11-02-2007 at 02:58 PM.


  7. #67
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    It is great to hear that things are going better.

    Alan



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    I spent the weekend running allthread thru all the holes. I also found a used workbench/desk on craigslist for $55. They're even going to deliver it in the next day or two. The desk has acouple drawers, which I'm thinking of using to house all the electronics in. I'm still waiting on the limit switches and wire.

    I did run into one issue. I used a drill to jog the x axis and discovered some binding about a foot of the end of the table. After removing the screw and sighting thru the hole, it looks like the hole in the lower gantry is high and right. The gantry glides no problem without the drive screw. I'm thinking of removing and rotating the lower gantry 180 and see if that fixes anything. It would put the AB nut in the middle then on one end. I also need to check if I'm out of square somewhere.


    Flyon



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    In your picture above, it looks like you have the gantry rotated 180. The side with the short pipe supports should go toward the adjusters. If you reverse it, there is about a 1 inch offset of the leadscrew hole.



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    Thomas the Train.



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    BobF - I shouldn't of posted that picture, the picture was before I rotated the gantry. I didn't notice the gantry was on backward till I till "tried" to run the screw. And your right if you do mount it backward you'll know because the leadscrew hole will be off center. I'll know more tonight about my current issue tonight after I take a closer look at everything and maybe remove the gantry. BTW, I've been watching your build and it's looking really nice. I really like the paint job. I should of painted mine, the white paint makes any dirt look noticeable.

    Joe - Yep that's Thomas up there. I might end up with a MyLittle Pony and a Thomas the Train mascot.

    Flyon



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    Just heard that I have a package waiting for me. It should be the wires and limit switches. I'm almost there. Hopefully I can get my x axis issue fixed and hook up the switches in the next few days. Then I move it to its new table then hook up the computer then watch chips fly.

    Flyon



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    Hey Flyon,

    What's happening? You have been awful quiet lately.

    Alan



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    Well I can say that it's all all put together except the limit switches. The only problem now is its still waiting for a home. The metal desk that I picked up, it has a removeable top thats particle board and its warped(of course). So I've been waiting for payday(today) to run and get a new top for the desk. I was thinking 1" MDF would make a nice top, but maybe there is better choice. Maybe a counter top, or something like that.

    I have all the electronics mounted in the top drawer for easy access. If I can get the new desk top today. I'm looking at this weekend for doing my first cuts.

    Also, I been doing alot of playing around with software trying to narrow down my choices.

    Flyon



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    I still haven't got my limit switches installed yet, the ones I got are N/O types and I wondering if I should switch to N/C'ed types. But, I did spent afew hours this weekend running and hooking up the motor wires. I able now to drive the motor in all three axis via Mach. I did put a pencil in the router and was able to draw the roadrunner that is included with Mach, atleast the first 1000 lines of it. I still haven't purhased it yet. I'm going to let EMC2 have a go tonight and try it out with the machine.

    It's scary the first few times you run some gcode, had my mouse on the reset button the whole time. I would feel alot better if I had a stop switch and my limits hooked up before I try any real cuts.

    Flyon

    Last edited by flyon; 11-26-2007 at 05:18 PM.


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    Flyon,

    First off, Congratulations.

    I would definitely suggest switching to the N/C type switches.

    The newest iteration of emc2 has a stepper configuration wizard. It hasn't been trouble free yet though. I tried using to set up my machine and two of the three axii wouldn't work with the files that it generated (although they do work with my hand generated ini files). I am going to compare the hand generated file with the machine generated file and see what went wrong. It could just be the choices that I made in the configuration process.

    Every time I run a new file, I offset it up in the air first to see if it does what I expect before I let it try cutting. Maybe there will come a time when I am sure enough of my code and the machine to run something on first try but for now caution is a virtue.

    Alan



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    I loaded up EMC2 last night. It booted right off the CD. I used the Configuration Wizard, my wiring matched EMC2 defaults so I didn't have to change anything. I'm using 200 step motors with 8 micro steps (1600 steps per revolution). Not sure this is good/right. I notice that my motors hum sometimes in some positions. Maybe this is a micro step issue? Anyways, within afew minutes I had EMC2 up and drawing some gcode. Since I'm using a pencil in my router, I had to be careful about 'cutting' into the scrap mdf board I had. Afew times it pushed the pencil down so hard it push the router 'up' in router mount.

    I'm about to order some new limit switches, I also might order some new wire for the limit switches. I wired up some extra phone cable I had laying around, don't think it's shielded. I might want to replace it for the limit switches.

    Also is it normal for the stepper motors to get hot...really hot? Should I turn the amp's down? I think I'm using 47 volts at 2 amps right now

    Flyon



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    Quote Originally Posted by flyon View Post
    I loaded up EMC2 last night. It booted right off the CD. I used the Configuration Wizard, my wiring matched EMC2 defaults so I didn't have to change anything. I'm using 200 step motors with 8 micro steps (1600 steps per revolution). Not sure this is good/right. I notice that my motors hum sometimes in some positions. Maybe this is a micro step issue? Anyways, within afew minutes I had EMC2 up and drawing some gcode. Since I'm using a pencil in my router, I had to be careful about 'cutting' into the scrap mdf board I had. Afew times it pushed the pencil down so hard it push the router 'up' in router mount.

    I'm about to order some new limit switches, I also might order some new wire for the limit switches. I wired up some extra phone cable I had laying around, don't think it's shielded. I might want to replace it for the limit switches.

    Also is it normal for the stepper motors to get hot...really hot? Should I turn the amp's down? I think I'm using 47 volts at 2 amps right now

    Flyon
    I am not familiar with the Keling drivers. But resonance is a common problem with steppers. A few guys have built dampers to deal with the resonance problem. The Gecko drives supposedly deal with the resonance electronically.

    The steppers do get hot over time. Mine seem to get hotter just sitting than they do running. But I don't think that they should get so hot that you can't hold your hand on them. When you say really hot, over 100°C?

    The amps should be set to match the specs for the motors (amps per phase).

    Alan



  19. #79
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    Yes when they are in brake mode the steppers will get hotter, the spec sheet of the drivers show a max. 50vdc, but typical of 36vdc, I would imagine you are pushing the motors to their max and producing allot of heat (I would verify with keling Tech.) and ask them if backing down the vref to about 70% will help, you probably will not see much difference in performance at top speed.


    Edit: This is what the manual says,

    For a given motor, higher driver current will make the motor to output more torque, but at the same time causes more heating in the motor and driver. Therefore, output current is generally set to be such that the motor will not overheat for long time operation. Since parallel and serial connections of motor coils will significantly change resulting inductance and resistance, it is therefore important to set driver output current depending on motor phase current, motor leads and connection methods. Phase current rating supplied by motor manufacturer is important in selecting driver current, however the selection also depends on leads and connections.

    Joe



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    One more note you may want to read up on EMF because the max. 50vdc should include this in the equation, so your actual power supply should be less accordingly.

    Joe



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