Reply with QuoteJoe,Originally Posted by joe2000che
Thanks.
Flyon,
If you send me a 5" length of your threaded rod with the pieces, I'll make a tap from it for you as well.
Alan
Yes, i press fit the dumpster nuts into the pocket then use a drill press and drill the 4 holes, then tap the dumpster nut and HDPE at the same time and install the screw. it is very easy to tap.
hope that helps.
Joe
Joe,
Thanks.
Flyon,
If you send me a 5" length of your threaded rod with the pieces, I'll make a tap from it for you as well.
Alan
Alan,
I just mailed out the hdpa pieces to you this morning. I also included the leadnut stuff from dumpstercnc for test fitting and a prepaid return envelope. Thanks again for helping me out.
I haven't cut the 1/2-8 2start for the y and z axis yet. I did some test fitting but that all. I can cut them tonight and send you the extra pieces tomorrow. I'll do some guessdamating on the y and z lengths. I just don't wanta come up short.
I've been cutting stuff using a 8" cutting blade on my table saw. It works really nice for cutting the alumium to size and grinding the flats too. It also worked to cut the drilling rods, but I saw it left some discoloration on the rods, probably from heat. I'm sure it will cut the 1/2 drive screws, but will that hurt it for making taps? I don't know much about tempering metal(sp). Maybe I'm over thinking stuff.
But wow I like the idea of some 1/2-8 2 start taps. I can send what'ever thread I have left and I hope their will be enough for you to make a tap for yourself too.
Flyon
aren't the dumpesterCNC nuts alreaded threaded for your rod? Why would you need to thread anything with those AB nuts? I think joe is talking about taping the HDP so that you can screw the Dumpster AB nut to the HDPE.
Nick,
I could be wrong but I thought he was talking about threading the HDPE the same as the dumpsterCNC nuts. He may have been talking about the four holes for the fasteners. Hopefully, I can figure it out when the parts arrive from Flyon.
If the hole in the HDPE is small enough to thread for the 1/2x8 two start and you tapped it after pressing the dumpsterCNC nut into the pocket in the HDPE, I don't think you would need any other fastener to hold them together. Once you fed the screw into the HDPE and dumpsterCNC nut the nut couldn't shift, at least not when it was new. But drilling the four holes and fastening them together is probably good insurance against backlash developing after the nuts wear. It would be real frustrating to have anti-backlash nuts that didn't really do any thing because the whole nut was shifting position.
Alan
Yes i was talking about the 4 flange bolt holes on the Dumpster nut, this must be attached to the block and bolted to the machine otherwise you will have some play just having the anti-backlash held into place with the threaded rod.
Joe
Alan,
I'm pretty sure Joe was talking about tapping the four holes that attach the ab nut to the hdpe. I think I saw that someone tapped their hdpe directly for the 1/2-8 2start, but something else. The hole in the hdpe that I sent you is too big to tap, otherwise that might of been an option. As for the tap, I probably won't need it till I try building something else. Or better yet, if you do build it, I'll hold on to it, then if anybody here needs it, they're welcome to borrow it. I kind of feel like I should give back to the 'Joes Model 2006' community some how.
Flyon
Flyon,
The parts arrived about 3:30 this afternoon. I have got the pockets machined and the nuts pressed in. I still have to drill and tap the 12 holes. With a little luck I will get them back in the mail tomorrow.
Alan
Flyon,
I got the holes drilled and tapped. You will need to replace the screws that I put it. All I had was 6-32x3/8. I would recommend 6-32x5/8, but at least 6-32x1/2. I think 6-32x3/4 may be just a hair too long.
Alan
I used 3/4" long, works fine. On my 4x4 i used longer and then placed a lockwash and nut on it to ensure the threads did not pull through under pressure, then just used a washer for spacer on the 4-1/4" bolts when attaching to machine.
joe
6-32 seems small to me. Wouldn't a 8-32 or 8-24 be better?
I was even thinking I might be able to use some of the same 10-24 socket head type like I got for the motor mounts.
Bob,
I just did it based on the size of holes in the DumpsterCNC nut. An 8-32 wouldn't go through the hole. Besides, (4) 6-32 screws have a fair amount of holding power.
Alan
I'll probably pickup some 6-32x3/4 screws, lockwashers, and nuts and do it like Joe did. I like the idea of securing the screws from the other side with a nut. Thanks again for putting the pockets in those for me. You saved the day for me, let me know if you ever need some cnc time on it when it is done.
Also, heres a few pictures I took the other day.
Its comming along pretty good.
Joe.
The parts went out in the mail this noon. The post office said you should get them tomorrow.
It looks like you're making good progress, keep it up.
Alan
Got the parts a little bit ago. Alan, you do first class work. Heading out to HD to pickup some 6-32x3/4 screws. With some luck maybe I can get the z axis sitting on the y axis today. Then maybe the y and z on the x axis rails tomorrow.
Flyon
Last edited by flyon; 10-21-2007 at 08:30 PM.
I got a few things finished this weekend. I was able to put together the z axis. The z axis is solid, there is no play at all in that thing. I also disassembled the y axis, then blued the rails.
I kept hearing some noice coming from the boxes. I thought the boxes are sort of like a guitars noice camber. So, I wanted to try and damping it. I picked up some expanding foam and sprayed the lower and upper gantry boxes. After the foamed dried I knocked on the boxes and the hollow was gone from them, but I still heard the noice, it was coming from the big x base torsion box. So I think I'm going to try and spray inside the x box tonight.
It will still play sweet music, just quietly.
Flyon
flyon, just becarefull not to fill those too fast. start in the center and work out. Because the expanding foam can blow your torsion box glue joints apart and or warp the table itself. Did you get the low expansion foam designed for around doorways? If so you shouldnt have to worry abou the foam blowing your glue joints open.
Oweeee! You're scaring me with that spray-on urethane foam. The stuff is hygroscopic (that means it absorbs moisture when the humidity goes up....) and when it absorbs moisture, it expands.... It can do BAD things if it is in an enclosed structure.....
Be careful with the stuff.... Just a word of warning...
-Taylor
I was going to wait till I had my picture, but I'll post about, then post the picture latter tonight.
In the last week or so I able to get the x pipes polished/blued and installed. I then rebuilt the Y gantry and put it on. I ran the x drive screw thru and the holes didn't match up right. I then figured out I mount the gantry wrong. Took it off spun it around 180 ( the adjustable skates were on the wrong side). Then the drive screw when thru fine.
I then tried to install the Y drive screw. I went thru one side of the gantry, thru the backlash screw on the z shuttle then thru the other side of the gantry. Here's the problem, The screw is not in the center of hole of the other side, so when I put the bearing on the screw, the bearing will not fit in the plastic holder. It's about quarter inch high, and to the right. I'll get some pictures of it up tonight.
I didn't think of it last night, but I'm thinking I can maybe adjust it using the top screws of the z shuttle and "move" the alignment around. I'll review everything else tonight and figure out if I screwed up somewhere in building the z axis, I sure hope not.
Flyon
