Joes CNC Allendale, MI
Hi all I have started a Joes CNC model I final have time to post pictures of my build.
But before I start I have to say hats off to Joe for sharing his idea and files with all of us. Beasuse if he didn't all of us wouldn't have build this machine.
So I have to say Thank You Joe.
Well this is my CNC is just about to ready to make saw dust with a good weekend coming up I just waiting on some parts.
So it is up to all of you on how fast that I post pictures I can post them slow or fast.
But I will start with a pile of parts. It is hard to believe that you start with a pile of parts and it can make what every your mind can dream up.
Rick
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Originally Posted by rdhharm
Welcome to the club Rick!
Looks like you're ready to go! If it's up to us, then I say...
Take your time with your build, but post your pictures fast!
We all like pictures and lots of them!
Have a great time! Look forward to watching your progress!
Looks good so far. I see the Long axis ribs for the X-Axis is made slightly different from mine, i have the splices further apart from each other stagered at the furthest ends, I did not want to chance of any boxing with having the splices towards the center, but if you use 1/2" MDF as the skins you should be alright.
One more question what material are the Bearing blocks and anti-backlash nuts? they have a blue center.
Look forward to seeing more on the build.
Joe
Last edited by joecnc2006; 03-14-2007 at 05:20 PM.
Hi Joe well as for the long ribs that was a big as we could make them on the router that was used to make them. On the bottom I used 1/4 masonite glued and pined nailed. I will do the same to the top and add a piece of 3/4 particle board screwed down so I don't think it will move.
As for the material used for the bearing block I don't see any blue
just kinding LOL. I don't know for sure it is very close to the HDPE and is used to make signs so if it can take the weather up here I think it will do just fine the Letterguy can answer that question he is the one that cut the parts for me.
Here are a few pictures of a jig that I made for the bearings slides so I could used a router with a 1/4" bit.
Let me ask all of you if you had one thing to tell a newbie not to do that you may have done while you were building your CNC machine what would that be?
I would say when you make your bearing slides take your time double check make sure you are 100% right because if your off 1/16" they will not work.
Rick
rdhharm,
It looks like you blasted the bearing slides with some kind of media (referring to PIC #3 above). They look real nice. What media did you use? It doesn't look like they were blasted with sand (big NO, NO on that one from OSHA).
Keep up the good work and thanks for joining in on CNCzone!
HayTay
Don't be the one that stands in the way of your success!
Hay, info on the osha deal with that?
Bearing slides look good. You can be off a bit and they will still work, but the more exact you are with them, the less adjustments you will need to make. If you make them perfect to the drawings you literally just have to tighten them enough. If you are like me butchering them with woodworking bits, (lol) you have to play with tightening them in pairs and what have you.
http://www.osha.gov/dcsp/ote/trng-ma...sis/si_gi.html
http://www.osha.gov/Silicosis_Conference/nr961031.htm
http://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owad...able=STANDARDS
I used to work at a company that used 'real sand' for blasting/finishing cast aluminum parts. Even though we were using a ventilated blasting cabinet the sand dust (free silica) was everywhere, and I mean everywhere. Our insurance agent and an OSHA representative showed up within 2 weeks of each other, both men STRONGLY RECOMMENDED (hint, hint, nudge, nudge) that we switch to a different media before their follow up visit and final reports. They both suggested switching to walnut shells, recycled buttons (plastic), aluminum oxide and several other media. After trying various media samples we settled on, and switched to, aluminum oxide.
Be careful if you're using sand, it, along with the potential for silicosis, is some nasty stuff. I hope you find the above links informative.
HayTay
Don't be the one that stands in the way of your success!
No they weren't sand blasted I used my Orbit Sander. I know all about silica we use products everday that have silica sand in them.
Rick
Yes you are right but if they are off in opposite corners that is a lot to be off
and they will not ride on the pipe square. I found out the hard way I had to remake some.
Rick
Last edited by rdhharm; 03-15-2007 at 11:04 AM.
I always use a templete and center punch the holes.
Here are some pictures of how I glued my X & Y torsion box ribs together I made a jig with some scrap pieces of plywood and a piece of particle board to keep them square. They came out right on the money for square.
Rick
Mini HVLP Spray Gun!!!! I spent two weekends painting my machine using spray cans from Lowes. I lost count of how many cans of primer and white paint I used. I've since purchased a mini HLVP spray gun and have to say it's worth every penny and the results are much better! I would venture to say that using the HVLP gun I could have painted everything in a matter of hours versus days, and when I say it's worth every penny, I don't mean to make it sound expensive. I purchased a two gun kit from Grizzly for less money than I paid for all the cans of paint!
Well their you have it, my one thing! Oh did I mention I hate to paint...
Sparky is right. If you plan it right you can paint everything at once, and if you do get a spray gun. I used cans too because it was so cold at the time. (rushed the stuff into my shop) But I didn't want to mess with thinning to the right viscosity and then cleaning the gun afterwards.Mini HVLP Spray Gun!!!! I spent two weekends painting my machine using spray cans from Lowes. I lost count of how many cans of primer and white paint I used. I've since purchased a mini HLVP spray gun and have to say it's worth every penny and the results are much better! I would venture to say that using the HVLP gun I could have painted everything in a matter of hours versus days, and when I say it's worth every penny, I don't mean to make it sound expensive. I purchased a two gun kit from Grizzly for less money than I paid for all the cans of paint!
Well their you have it, my one thing! Oh did I mention I hate to paint...
ccsparky:
I am with you on the painting thing.
I bought a gravity feed gun from harbor freight for 10.00 it did a great job but it still was not that easy. Very time I went to paint it would seem to get cold here but I guess that is way this is a hobby that we all seem to love and wouldn't change.
I have a question what home and or limit switch would be good to use I have searched the web way to many to pick from.
Rick
Rick,
Check out David's log here:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showth...=26792&page=20
Pictures on post 240. I believe he tells which ones he's using on another page. Also I believe garcwell has purchased a bulk of switchs and is selling them to members. Joe, may have them also, however if not, ask him I'm sure he has info on anything you need! Several others have switches installed but I cannot recall who. Have read so many logs that it's hard to keep track of who has what
Bob
The ones in David's pics look like they're at least an inch long. The ones I picked up on ebay are smaller; just over 3/4". I don't know that they won't work, but I would have preferred something that at least looks more robust. The terminals are too small to take faston lugs; wires will have to be soldered. And it looks like it would need to be 2-56 screws for mounting. It's already wired with a 20" lead and connector, but I don't know yet if it's wired NC or NO - would be easy to change - the other terminal is there. jspencer has some of them to try on his machine - haven't heard yet how that's worked out.
If someone else wanted to try these, I could sell one more dozen before I'm down to the stock I want to keep - call it $10 inc shipping.
There was another set of 50 on ebay but someone picked them up with the Buy-it-now. Ah, as I suspected, same seller has put out another bundle of 50: http://cgi.ebay.com/Micro-switches-w...QQcmdZViewItem
He may have hundreds/thousands of them.
Gary
Hi all some more pictures these are of a little mod that I did to the gantry side to help with flex. I used 3/8 rerod and than filled with bondo before paint.
I am so close to being done I can't wait to make saw dust. just waiting on a few parts for the controller they should be hear the first of the week.
Rick
Allendale? Really? My Daughter lives there!
Eastsider here! Looks good!
Jim
How is the rebar attached to the side of the gantry, to keep it from flexing itself you may need to epoxy it the entire length, I know just standard 1/2" rebar in designed to keep concrete from pulling not flexing. the rebar itself will bend some what, you may want to think about angle iron.Hi all some more pictures these are of a little mod that I did to the gantry side to help with flex. I used 3/8 rerod and than filled with bondo before paint.
I am so close to being done I can't wait to make saw dust. just waiting on a few parts for the controller they should be hear the first of the week.
Rick
Joe
She lives hear that is good. She isn't one of the several thousands that are here for about 9 months and leave (GVSU students)
Well here is the amost finished machine. You will see that I have not cut the leadscrew yet because I will have to take it apart some what to get it out of my basement I will use my cordless with a socket to turn to leadscrew.
Rick
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